Pete M

this is on the Jeep with a 3" lift?

Are you talking about doubling up aftermarket spacers, or the stock isolators?

what is it that you're trying to do?

some sensors are used at startup (TPS, CPS, etc), others are not (o2, etc).

maybe.

If you're on a tight budget, sticking with a 2" lift will allow you to retain most of your current parts. Basically you'll need spacers up front and an AAL out back and that's it. With 3", you're starting to change the geometry of the system to the point where more and more stock parts are too short.

Could be that your IAC (idle speed controller) is stuck in the warmed up position. :dunno:

I'd focus on 31s for a 3" lift and a stock Dana 30/35 combo

update: a buddy of mine (who hopefully is still a friend) moved the 86, 90, and the minivan for me today. Those were the three with disassembled interiors. I talked him through the startup procedures (which are complicated and unique for all three) in real-time. Let it never be said that i don't know my own rigs. :D The 88 is complete. Nothing has been removed inside or out. If they tow it, I'm suing. I might move it myself this weekend, but we'll see how the rest of this debacle plays out.

Quick backstory for anyone that doesn't know: my fleet is parked across the street from my house in the doctor's office parking lot. He's an old friend of the family and long-story-short, we trade parking privileges for yard work. More backstory that most won't know: the city recently did street work in front of my house and we've been back and forth over the sudden arrival of a fire hydrant that ate up both parking spots in front of the house, and the planting bed that they actually took us to court over the planting area being an "encumbrance on public property", when the judge ruled that not only was the 6" elevation change not an encumbrance, but also that the city couldn't prove that the grass on the other side of the sidewalk was actually public land, and thus that the city had no jurisdiction. Bite me Riverview. :fs1: So now they return fire... Halfway down to Georgia (heading down from Michigan for the week to visit my sister) I get a call from my mother saying that the Doctor got a warning about the trucks and that he apparently had 5 days to remove them. something about being a blight. :dunno: :rotfl2: Last I checked, they were all externally intact, plated, insured, legally drivable and on private commercial property. I even move them once a month as per the rules. Now I'm in a mad scramble to get my lawyer involved on the doctor's behalf and to scrounge up some help to get the fleet moved to, uh, somewhere else for the time being. :dunno: I've looked up the laws, and as far as I can tell by the letter of the law, my crap ain't a blight. the only thing I can find is that 3 of them have a partially dismantled interior (one being my minivan), but it's not like the law says that exactly. It's been left kinda vague (on purpose I'm sure). And there's no WAY you could ever tell that from the sidewalk. Ya gotta walk onto private land to see that. :rant: None of this would be much concern except that I'm 700 miles away. :wall: More updates as events warrant...

and floor rust starts under the carpet, not under the truck. If you can see rust under the truck, chances are good that it's much much worse under the carpet. :( Gotta pull back the edges of the carpet and check for moisture and/or a bad smell.

What i would do if I were to build another MJ: cheap 87+ 4.0L 2wd MJ (pick your poison: stick or auto) 4wd trans (AX-15 if stick) 231 t-case ~5" lift (including shocks) extra main leaf for the rear packs (or some sort of anti-wrap bar) YJ brake lines up front Dakota brake line for the rear used 33" tires used aftermarket rims (for less backspacing) 4.10 MJ/XJ front axle with the bigger 760 U-joints installed v8 ZJ tie-rod up front 4.10 Explorer 8.8 with disks and open diff (non-posi, so I can easily install a locker) 1.5" rim spacers for rear axle (good ones, not cheap ones) Aussie lockers for front and rear front shaft rear shaft (2wd shaft shortened to length) custom rollbar (a real one, welded to the frame) I'd probably add in a dual diaphram brake booster while I'm at it. I imagine I can do the whole thing for around 3 grand as long as the initial truck didn't need too much work and I can find the used parts at the local pull-a-part. If there's more budget allowed, I could see myself upgrading the gears to 4.88s and doing the work to properly fit 35s.

how's your budget look? There's a huge price difference between 33s on 5" and 35s on 8".

how big of a tire are you looking to run? What are you doing for gears and axles?

Just got word from our host that some server maintenance will be going on from 1am and 7am EST late saturday night. We may or may not have some downtime. That is all. :typing:

That frame rot will buff out. :clapping: AAL. MT leaf tips would be evenly spaced.

:waving: you can't get AAA to tow it without you being there at the time? bummer. :(

3.55 gears Dana 35 or 29 spline 8.25 rear AW-4 231 t-case if parttime, 242 if fulltime (both will have the sealed rear output)

Is it as rust free as it looks in the pic? :drool:

shiney. 8)

all in one trip I drove the 88 through MI, OH, IN, IL, MO, KS, CO, UT (moab) and then back again. Almost made it home too. :D

I'll send some more your way next chance I get. :thumbsup:

nice job on the bed. :thumbsup: got any closeup shots?

My Libby has a 2.8... ...CRD that is. :brows:

looks like you should be able to use that one MJ housing to do both Dakota housings. What about just eliminating one of the MJ brake lights?