Crash

Do you know what PSI the cap is rated at? Closed systems, especially renix, typically work at a higher pressure than open systems. IF the cap is any less than 16lb, replace it. If it has the stupid lever piece, replace it. Since you have "overheated" your heep, chances are the pressure bottle has cracks and/or leaks.

So, are you actually doing a 4.0L swap? Because a SBC would be an easy enough swap.

Rig it with switches like in Mad Max: Fury Road..

Tangerine!

- The oil filter adapter O-ring kit sold in the parts stores is NOT correct for any vehicle made before July 16, 1992. The motormite universal o-ring kit works okay and is only a few dollars. ALso, there is a member here that sells a low priced "OFA seal kit" I have not installed it yet, but they look to be just fine. Waiting to change the seals for when I swap in some new motor mounts.

Unless you are set on going SOA, since you already have some 2" shackles, consider a nice set of lift leafs and stay SUA.

IIRC, if you stay SUA you will probably have to trim the ends of those spring perches. If you are going all out, lift and such SOA then they will be fine as is.

I would say bend it forward a bit near the exhaust hanger, then bend it back a bit to either have it 90 perp. to the bed or slightly back.

That is a nice looking MJ you have there. Glad you get to enjoy the awesomeness that these trucks bring! haha.

Your local auto paint (maybe Auto parts store that does paint) should have a camera that can take a pic of a nice, clean and flat surface to match. Most things will not be perfect, but better than guessing.

SO, what I thought were helper leafs didn't appear to be doing squat. And one of them was missing! SO I removed them. The U-bolt apparati to keep them snug to the top of the leafs are double-nutted, so those were annoying. Maybe this weekend I will swap coils and LCA's and do a tape measure alignment.

If you want to keep the 2-piece shaft setup, you can swap to a posi-lok or other cable actuated setup. Then the vacuum crap is out of the equation. I swapped in a non-CAD housing with 4.10's into my XJ. Got the whole axle cheaper than it would have been to have someone install gears. Otherwise I probably would have just had the front end geared.

Renix used the longer shifter cable, HO used the shorter cable. Using the longer cable should have minimal/no mods. Using the shorter cable requires mod.

I know this thread is older, but it was a help as far as wiring for me. The colors of the wires matched up just fine, but the connectors were different. I just ended up splicing into the 87 bed harness with the harness that was already on the truck. The bed I currently have is from my 87 project MJ. The rear section of the harness that connected to the tail light harness was a 6-pin GM weather pack connector with the 5 wires. The front harness connector from the 87 looks lightly different than what was connected in the cab. My truck is an 88, and the rear connector at the tail light end was more of a square-ish connector type. Since the back side of that was already cut into for the "trailer lights" I just connected those and spliced the wires in to the wires after the 87's GM weather pack connector. I would like to eventually make the whole setup more solid. The questions I have are. Where the harness than runs from the cab to the back, are the connectors the same 87-88? And I just assumed that they were different? Or are both ends of the connectors different, and I need to figure out "WTF" ? The main harness to the rear from the 87 is intact and sitting in a box of parts. IF the front harness connector is the same I can/will just swap the intact harness and call it good. Another thought on the matter is, if the connectors in the cab really are different, cut and splice the harness at the rear to keep the GM 6-pin connector? And 3rd, maybe find someone to trade, or buy a correct harness that works?

Steering wheel diameter is 15" A grant/other 3 bolt style wheel will fit with adapter 3196 (IIRC, that is the correct number for wheel adapter.) BUt yes, a tilt wheel will help.

Are the wheel adapters hub centric? If you are willing to ship, how much for the wheel adapters. Need some for my MJ. Zip is 93444

Why not swap in a SBC 350, LSx, etc. instead of the 3.4L?

IIRC after 90 or 91, all were non-CAD D30. Renix-era XJ with 242 were non-CAD as well. But yes, if it has ABS then larger joints in stock shafts. As far as CAD not working, the only time I ever had an issue was when my vac hose connector came off. If I had not picked up a late model non-cad axle I would have done a "posi-lok" type cable setup to make sure that the axle engaged properly.

Got the MJ weighed and reg'd today. It weighs a whopping 3180 LBS with a 1/4 tank of fuel. It still does not have a rear bumper, and it did not also have a lic. plate light, but the wiring was there, so I just used some connectors to run a led light for the plate for meow. Has a 97-up center console. All I need is a 97-up manual shifter boot to complete it. Currently running my 31x10.5 Dueler A/T's for a bit. Sold my 235/75s to my friend. He will be using them on his DD ranger. Met a guy today, whom works at Poly performance, so I have another connect there. Hopefully get a better deal than what they currently offer on wheel adapters. I will post other updates as they progress. It seems to be progressing decently, considering I have been low on funds. My friend, whom helped with the utility bed who is also the new owner of it gave some some ZJ coils that were originally on his Barney heep when he got it. I think I will toss those in and see how I like it, Otherwise I have a set of "unknown to me" lift coils in my now parts MJ, those may be slightly taller. I will be leaving the "helper leaf" setup in the truck for now as it does not hinder or affect me DD'ing the MJ.

I finally was able to remove the utility bed from my MJ. It looks like a real MJ again. It's nice to have even better visibility than before. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D-bmmDa0TCRqdbJniJmFZONdgYYzAqrkgg/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pv8iYhFCBccLJyOLNpdf7sUDBH7wFKhexQ/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_E3JlZ9hukF3U2xUnhV-YLvg1XCPOgfxTw/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Jq6aaDVD78hVj-VyrN23COEJm_tDM5O-vw/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PuTv8VMLqRDC_i7N5iickqBAFVQiVxheLw/view?usp=sharing Hope those links work. Next up is a little bit of body work/paint. And exhaust. Hopefully, I can get the heep weight and finally reg'd. Slowly been able to gather parts for a 4wd swap. I want to keep it manual, so I am sure that a legit 4WD trans will cost the most of all the parts I need to do the swap.

You need flywheel/clutch for the specific engine/year range. Pilot bushing will most likely will be different, so you will need to change that.

Yes, the ZJ D35/44 disc setup is plug n pray for the D35/44 in XJ/MJ. Even the 8,25 with a little clearancing on the backing plate hole.

IIRC, 2dr XJ seats bolt to the MJ brackets?

If you are going to go through that much work. why not just throw a SBC 350 or something that is basically plug n pray for that year range? Or a 4.0L

So, as some of you know, my MJ has a utility bed on it currently. Found out that it is partially welded to the frame, which is lame. Pics are in my build thread. I have a standard MJ bed on my project that I want to swap on, most likely. Or might even consider a flatbed of sorts. Anyways, for those of you who have done flat bed or other bed type swaps, what did you do for fuel tank mounting. I was thinking maybe just a couple pieces of steel running across the frame from side to side. Even if I swap a factory bed, I think it will make things easier overall. Thoughts, concerns, or constructive criticism? Thank you.