gte636p

I let my MJ sit for a few weeks and my noise fuel pump has decided to stop making noise. Unfortunately, I am also only around my MJ for two or three days a month, otherwise I'm in a different state and cannot troubleshoot / repair things cheaply. This weekend I have the prompt sound when turning the ignition to run, nothing after that. Pressure at the rail doesn't really move the needle (maybe 5 lbs pressure) and there is gas at the Schrader valve, but not a mist... it's more of a fountain coming out. The battery pushing everything is charged and ready to go as well. Eventually the motor will "catch" and stumble a few times, only to die ~1-2s later. Hopefully it's just the hose in the tank leaking and not building pressure, but I'm trying to prepare for worst case scenario in that I have to mess with the sending unit. With all that background, here's my question: Is there a write-up / guide on how to take a new XJ sending unit and make it actually fit properly in a comanche. Barring that, are there pictures and dimensions on what the actual MJ fuel pump should look like? Just in case it makes a difference... this is on an '89 with a '92 HO swap (motor, computer, fuse block, etc...).

I swapped out an 8.8 and did the hell creek 4.5" rear and a long arm front install recently... I redrilled my perches when looking at the axle placement, it was just too far forward for me. In addition, my shackles were vertical if not slightly sloped the wrong direction. It's not ideal, I'm not too happy about it, but I'm tired of dealing with the car right now. It's been a while, but I put some 4.5" RE leaves on my XJ and the fit was great from the get go. The tire was centered in the opening, the shackle angle remained the same if not better than before (had to switch to boomerang to clear the rear crossmember). I understand the "it will settle" statements, but my XJ has hardly settled more than 0.5" over 10 years and my cj's are exactly where they were on install... I may be the outlier though?

Welp, if it all looks the same under those plates then it's time to get to work I guess...

I've had my front axle sitting on the ground for wayyy to long now and decided I should finally finish installing my long arm kit. This ran into some issues relatively quick like. I have an 89 MJ and a few other XJs. I an accustomed to seeing the front LCA bracket come off the frame and make a little pocket for the LCA, witch the back being like a box, straight up and down. The MJ, on the other hand has a sort of "skid plate" surrounding it. On the front bolt, it is inside a bracket where a socket almost disappears before you get to the LCA bolt. The rear of the LCA bracket slopes back towards the transmission cross member. These are causing some headaches for me and tempting me to just go short arm instead. This is before the hole drilling... right in the middle of the fuel and brake line run. My question: is this normal, and if so which long arms will account for this? I've got 4.5" lift springs in the rear and would like to have no rake on the truck....short arms are gonna suck.

standard tailgate for a 2a, 3a, 3b, and earlier CJ5's (46-60ish?). It's not entirely rare, but not really common either... prices dropped when Omix began stamping "willys" again a few years ago.

I've been playing the door lock game for an '89 model... would it look anything like: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-8122874k3 I'm assuming that's why it's sold in sets of three? Scratch that. I'm a tard. I forgot the XJ lift gate key is a push putton type deal.

Man, I had a ton screwed up. All lines routed correctly, Sensing valve is out, new bleeders installed all around, and the system actually bled quite quickly after that. I know it's supposed to be a figure of speech, but i wasn't expecting what happened when I hit the pedal the first time. I literally almost hit the windshield. The swap is most definitely worth the time and makes me less hesitant for the step up to 33's when the time comes.

I've got a new WJ booster and master cylinder sitting in the comanche right now. The front line on the WJ master goes to the rear of the old MJ proportioning valve and reversed for the rear line. On the proportioning valve I have the front output removed and connected to what was previously the rear axle feed. What was originally the rear axle feed has been blocked off completely. just like this: http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL91/512063/1637926/182326880.jpg I thought everything was done and went to bleed the brakes... no fluid to the rear axle. BUT I do have a leak coming from the line I disconnected back up at the proportioning valve. Is there a step that I missed back at the axle end? Do I need to plug a port or something on the sensing valve line over the axle as well?

I know for sure the second picture is what I'm looking for. What I really "need" is the part that bolts to the seat frame itself so I can take the bracket that mounts to the floor and swap over my old MJ bench seat brackets. With that said, I should most likely rephrase and say the whole seat base would be more of what I am actually looking for.

Title pretty much says it. I'm looking for the bracket to get the stock radio back where it goes. The bracket screws onto the radio and then into the dash, has a tab to hold the radio up against the dash. I am also looking for seat sliders for an XJ/MJ. I have swapped out to the buckets without flat bottoms. Unfortunately the drivers side was electric and the gears are broken in the slider assembly itself. Just looking for the stock slider frame for the seat now.

I swapped the new motor in and did the injector swap at the same time (I think??) along with the 99+ intake and bigger exhaust. So, honestly I could have cause more problems for myself than I tried to solve. I did have one injector that was stuck open causing some issues for a little bit as well. That said, I hunted for what I mentioned earlier for a while and found one reference to it... if you look at picture #5, this is exactly what mine looked like when thrown back together. If you rotate it to get the tabs to align you get no power at all. I had to cut the tab off and re-install. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/distributor-timing-problem-110907/

Put an ATK stroker in my '98 and the timing would not set right. It seems if you use a certain camshaft (which ATK used in mine) you need to rotate the distributor to get the timing set right. I reset the distributor three times by the book and had no power after setting it. If I pushed it the motor would start backfiring, etc. In the end I has to cut one ear off the distributor hold-down and place a fender washer around the hold-down bolt to help hold the distributor in place. It's been about 5 years since then and I have no other issues with anything. YMMV.

I forget how tight the wiring harness is, but did the grounds on the side of the block somehow pull out with it hanging for a while? Spent a few hours tracking that down myself...if anything i would try to make sure the electrical was right before swapping out transmissions again.

x2 it almost got me on my XJ when I was sent a wrong part, but put in the right box. The timing gates are different. Given the pickup in the distributor (H.O.) I don't know if it would even send a spark to the plugs.

I've got most of my interior panels painted / refreshed with SEM 17173 that seems to match the lighter grey interior pretty well. It's time to get the dash and console freshened up and put back in... they're a darker/bluer shade of grey. Does anyone know the color code for that?