HOrnbrod

Mfg.'s recommended wheel width for 31" tires = 7" - 9"

Nothing wrong with using a 30" tire, but the less speedo error statement is not always true. All 30" and 31" tires are not created equally. Some manufacturers' 30" tires are actually taller than another manufacturers' 31" tires. The actual tire diameter for your tire of choice can be found on the tire manufacturer's spec sheet for your tire. Actual tire diameter and the differential gear ratio are the two factors that determine the accuracy of the MJ/XJ speedometer. So when you finalize your tire size and the diff gear ratio, you must have the correct tooth count gear installed in the speedometer gear housing on the transmission or t-case depending if you are 2WD or 4WD. There are lots of sites out there that list the correct speedo gear based on vehicle year, diff ratio, and actual tire diameter. Here's the best one.

Ravines, the second best Jeep wheels

Looks like Mother and Child.

Agree with all except the use of pucks. I'd recommend a new set of OME 930 springs up front first and see what you net for a lift. It will be 2"-3" initially. Plus the handling and ride will be substantially improved.

PM me a address and I'll send it.

I have a wiring diagram for the power windows if you need it, using the stock power window panels, switches, and switch pigtails.

Do you still have an e-brake?

Same to you mate.

It did Mike, but since Big Papi retired, I'm not that crazy about them anymore. Got this one now: Remember?

$828.97

It's Don, not Dan.

It's simple. Your very first post stated " Load adjusting valve had been deleted". Like a dumbass I assumed all the rusty original rear brake lines were already removed and you had the single line run done w/o any proportioning, as is commonly done by some folks on this forum. We're okay. I still wouldn't want any brake lines in my cab, but that's your choice mate.

Yep, you're running new lines to plumb your new in-cab APV in series with the rear brake supply line. That sounds running additional brake lines to me. Me, I'd just stick the APV under the hood near the distribution block. But it's your truck mate - go for it.

I've only seen them under the hood or under the car on an existing brake line. Put it anywhere else and you will have to run additional brake lines to the new location then back. Then you have bleed it all. Hardly worth it IMO for something you might adjust 4-5 times a year.

Do you have a bored out 2.5L engine?

If the truck doesn't have power window / locks from the factory the cross-body harness won't be there. The wiring isn't difficult.........

I'd be glad to, but since it's a Renix cruise system you have, these instructions won't help you as they are for the HO harness.

Lately my truck has been cranking a bit longer before it fires up, so I decided to do a leakdown test at the fuel rail test port. The FSM states that on startup, the fuel pressure should jump immediately to vacuum regulated pressure (40 psi in my case), then should hold a minimum 20psi of pressure for at least 30 minutes after shutting down the engine. My pressure dropped rapidly to zero in less than a minute - not good. Fuel pressure internal leakback is normally caused by a bad check valve at the fuel pump, or a leaky fuel pressure regulator and/or fuel injector(s). Since the pressure drop was so quick, I suspected it was the pump check valve. To verify, I pinched off the return line at the rubber soft-to-hard line transition near the rear axle, and the fast pressure drop was unaffected, so I eliminated the FPR and injectors as the cause. I picked up the above 5/16" inline check valve HERE, then using fuel injection hose clamps, plumbed it in the fuel filter 5/16" output line. I selected this check valve because it has Vitron seals that are supposedly impervious to fuel. When I repeated the leakdown test the pressure after shutting off the engine dropped slowly to ~20 psi over an hour or so, then held for three hours more until I got tired of timing it. That's more than satisfactory according to the FSM. The next morning on a cold start after ~14 hours, the engine started immediately instead of the normal 5-10 seconds of cranking. It worked! So this check valve will remain inline as long as the current Bosch fuel pump lives. And I suspect it will live a bit longer now than before as it won't be working as hard. I don't know if this will help the Renix system trucks as they are computer-dumb and have to crank longer than the HOs to relearn their settings each time before starting, but hopefully this little mod might help them start faster too.

New auto carpeting is what it is; new, ill-fitting and always recognizable as an aftermarket addition. I've done several in the past to other vehicles and have never been totally happy with the outcome in any no matter how long I futzed over the carpeting. My carpeting was in good shape structurally; no rips, tears, or holes. But it was filthy and faded. I pulled it and took it to a local commercial carpeting place for cleaning and re-dying to a darker shade of gray. They even repaired a few spots on the backing that were flattened or missing. It came back looking like new and of course fit exactly like it did before - perfectly. I was happy with the outcome and it only cost me 75 clams. It's a good option if your existing carpet is salvageable.

Yes, the LSV arm is now too short. HERE'S a fix.

The seat brackets sit on studs that are welded to the floor pan. Just unscrew the nuts and lift the seat up and out. Rats - Mike beat me..........

Shipped?

This is true. Tell him to get his butt back over here on the forum.

Sorry Wahoo - just saw your post. Good to hear you're keeping the LSV; it actually works quite well if adjusted correctly in spite of the naysayers babble.