HOrnbrod

Jeez, what a crappy setup. Who knew?

Shoot him an email - may still have some.

Crappy pic, but a while back this Ebay seller, uaintl-2008 , had a crap load of these switches. I grabbed about six of them @ ~$20/ea as I recall. They fit the standard XJ/MJ single pole ON/OFF connectors, snapped in the bezel as they should, have the indicator LED, and work fine. They were 20A switches in a Mopar box. Don't know if he has any more, but would be worth checking with the seller...

Renix filters have different threads unless you've adapted it.

The sexy red is a nice contrast.

From what I've found they are about the same, with a slight positive edge on the smaller from an independent lab - Bob the prejudiced Oil Guy. Baldwin doesn't publish the micron efficiency of their filters on their spec sheets, and if they did I probably wouldn't understand it anyhow. I'm sure you could though.

Theoretically more capacity lowers oil temps overall, and gives added protection against viscosity breakdown. Realistically, maybe, maybe not. It'll be beneficial I think because I use the Hesco high volume oil pump in my stroker, and Hesco recommends it. We'll see this summer...

Thought I'd try to squeeze in the super large Baldwin filter this oil change, and it fits fine. It's actually easier to get in there than the standard filter because I can change it from the bottom instead of shredding my arm up from the top. Almost a quart more capacity - and that's always good.

Yup, they do. Weird - have not seen that before. https://comancheclub.com/uploads/monthly_2018_04/image.jpeg.d1bfc6ed27b6a56361a6b3b77c0dab44.jpeg Most excellent fab work too.

If you ever get your rig up on a lift one day, please post some full pics of the Iron Rock Off-road 3-link frame mounting details from below. Would love to see some full span shots right to left frame rails.

Consistently to the point where it's sometimes a PITA. Not always an offer, but everyone wants to talk about it. Sometimes it's okay, sometimes it's not. There's not many MJs in our area, and a lot of folks have no idea Jeep ever made a pickup.

I guess he doesn't know what forum he's on.

Yes. I'm referring to Alabama Krusty, not our own beloved Krustyballer.

Your "hose hooker" tool reminded me of another tool I use for pulling spark plugs wires. To remove the stubborn boots you can get this handy Lisle "boot hooker" tool that makes the job easy. And no, I didn't make it, but for $9 I figured it wasn't worth it.

Nor did I. Had to look it up.

Krusty's just keeps getting worse and worse with their stuff.

Really?

HERE. Too bad it has idiot lights.

L & R LCA drop brackets are installed on the wrong sides?

That's it.

lwb,_4.0,____aw4,__________2wd,_____d44= _59.5"_______d35= #

The plugs look fine. There are plenty of posts regarding Carter pumps as being DOA right out of the box. I've always used Bosch replacement pumps and have had good results, as have most of us. FP pressure should jump up almost instantly on startup, and shouldn't slowly oscillate when idling. Fuel filter fresh? The check valve appears non-existent on your rig; it should hold pressure much longer. But there are other causes for rapid fuel pressure drop. There are a couple of test that can be performed to keep from replacing parts not needed. First with engine up to temp with fuel pressure gauge connected, find the return fuel line where it is rubber and is accessible to clamp with flat blade pliers. Start engine, read gauge, clamp return line. Pressure should go up to 70>90 psi, then turn engine off with line still clamped. If pressure drops it will indicate a bad fuel pump check valve. if pressure stays up or drops a small amount it will indicate either a leaky regulator or injector, if pressure drops steadily it will be an injector.

They are super cool looking trucks, gotta admit.