HOrnbrod

Would be a miracle if you ever find them already cut. I did mine as detailed in this thread: https://comancheclub.com/topic/54010-body-trim/?tab=comments#comment-550827

Very sweet. Do you know if the spare tire bumper carrier is factory or an aftermarket unit? I love it.

Please don't call me sir. I was enlisted.

The cushion for the AX-15 is the same as for the AW4, p/n 52002334.

I'd weld (or get it welded) the flange from the old cat to the new. Are you referring to the insulator rubber, like below? If so, the p/n is 53000101 and there are plenty on Ebay.

Only the Rubicon and Sahara shocks are gas charged.

Understand. I'd still take a peek inside.

My original cat with the original engine was clogged, causing poor performance and overheating especially when climbing hills. After looking at everything else trying to cure this, I brought it to a friend's muffler shop in town and we sawed off the tailpipe. There was a thick black gooey mess clogging honeycomb passageways when we looked inside the cat. There was no excess noise in my case. We junked it and replaced it with an "Alabama cat" as shown below, and all was well afterwards. The cause? No idea. It wasn't using any oil, and it remains a mystery.

What makes it not easy? Guessing some hinge difference?

When I got my Reflexxion cowl hood years ago, it was advertised as fitting all XJ/MJ models 1984 through 2001, but some drilling was required on certain models for the hood hinges. It was an easy bolt-on for me, but there must have been some difference in the hood hinge mounting holes. And I don't know what these differences were..

Found the thread. Yes, they are too close to the tank on the longbed. Glad that's over. https://comancheclub.com/topic/38390-new-shocks-monroe-sensa-track-load-levelers/?page=2

Do you have a longbed?

I remember reading that they were very close to the tank. Must have been the longbeds I'm thinking of.

You might want to check it with an external gauge then just to be sure.

Welcome. You might want to go a bit higher with the LSV arm slightly above parallel with the axle tube, but try it first when you get everything back together. Or you could pull the arm and slip it on the LSV splined shaft like this thread details: https://comancheclub.com/topic/53966-brakes-questions/?tab=comments#comment-550054 What are those rear shocks you are using with the overload springs? Any interference with the gas tank?

What's your oil pressure read on the gauge?

Seems better - how? Worth it? Been thinking about this AW4 mod for awhile....

It's a Truck-Lite, and it's a bit cheaper model, #27490C. Mine are the model #27450C that look like the below. Truck-Lite shows the 27490C to be for RHD vehicles, but there are obviously other differences like the lens.

Looks like Mama did a good job raising you right. Congrats.

Yeah, but Jeff wants one for free.

I hope that rope is stronger than it looks. Would hate for that axle to fall...

Understand. And since the EarthLED ballast-less bulbs operate on a 120-277V supply my existing 220V garage fixtures don't have to be modded. Very cool. Glad I started this thread - learned a lot.

You're most likely correct, but I didn't know that going in. I've been replacing florescent ballasts for fifty years or so and have a good stash. From now on as the ballasts die, I'll be converting to ballast-free LED fixtures.

2.5 sounded healthy.