HOrnbrod

Do you have a 4-speed or 5-speed transmission? If 4-speed you have an AX4.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/universal-joint-for-front-axles-8126637.html

I should elaborate a bit. I purchased the plates about four years ago. The first idiot I talked to at Teraflex wanted ~$150/ea and was a total asshat on the phone. So I called back and asked for Doug (ext 318) whom I had dealt with before. I explained what I wanted to do (swap the disks from a c-clip D35 to a D44 because I upgraded the axle), and he came up with the much lower price. But I've no idea if he still works there and what the price is now. :dunno:

They do sell them separately. I would not have posted if they did not. I purchased a pair from Teraflex when I swapped my disk brakes from a c-clip D35 to a D44. About $65/ea with the preload spacers IIRC.

You can purchase the correct backing plates for the D44 as well as the preload spacers to make up for the disk thickness directly from Teraflex. Probably other places too. All the rest of the stuff (rotors, calipers, etc.) are Ford Explorer.

This isn't entirely correct. Non c clip dana 35's are not plug and play with ZJ discs. Most mjs have the non c clip dana 35. The same is true for the D44 axle since it has the same axle flange bolt pattern as the non c-clip D35.

How about a "Master Thread" at the top of the DIY forum divided into menu categories (Cooling, Steering, Suspension, etc. in alphabetical order). Each category will have the title and link to every DIY post pertaining to that category, including stickies. Then another thread right under it for new DIY posts so the mods can review them then move into the master thread under the appropriate category. That shouldn't be too time consuming after it's set up.

Man Jim, you been having your share of issues out there lately. Fires, hail, tornadoes, what's next? Hope the livestock is fine.

Maybe it doesn't rain in Texas. I can see gaps where the back of the hood is pushed up so high you can stick a 2x4 through. But if it makes you happy Kudo-man - go for it. :thumbsup:

Do you know what H2O is? :shake: I'm like old school too, but that's just wrong.

^^ Too much H2O entry doing that. My first attempt at hood vents is with the ZJ 5.9 factory vents. They basically did nothing with the drip pans installed; w/o the drip pans they were marginally helpful. Hood vents just don't move enough air through the limited XJ/MJ underhood real estate. At least these did not. Eventually I found a Reflexxion cowl hood and installed it. Now this sucker (literally) really does work. Even sitting in traffic the heat pours out the cowl driven by the dual electric fans up front. Plus there's no noticeable H2O entry to worry about. Here are several more hood vent examples: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoBonnetVents.htm

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=967146

Sounds logical.

That's the one you bought used from a CC member awhile back? Has it rattled like that from from day one?

As the man said, Renix = 1986-1990.

Don't know. They were 15" x 8" and rubbed on the caliper.

I have Explorer disks on my 44 and have tried several Jeep wheels including the steelies and they all cleared except for the alloy Canyon wheels.

Do check for loose, worn-out steering components first, then call around and bring it to a shop that has a Hunter Road Force balancer. The rest are junk. I had tires that could not be balanced until the Hunter balancer. Several times.

Get an aluminum shaft made. :thumbsup:

I did some spring cleaning last week and threw out all the 91 power steering brackets and pump I had left over from the 01 intake manifold swap. The 91 stuff had been sitting around for about three years so I tossed it. Isn't that always the rule that as soon as you toss something, someone will need it.............

Not so much. The metric ton springs are the same width as any other MJ springs. The factory D44 is also the same width with the same width perches as the D35. All MJ rear springs are 100% interchangeable. If your spring perches are in a different place or are for a wider leaf spring then the leaf attachments on the frame would have to be different, as well, yes? And that is not the case. Metric ton spring trucks did not have rear frame attachment differences, If the frame mounts are the same ( and they are) you cannot put a wider leaf spring in it, either. If you have "metric ton springs" for an MJ that are wider you must have had to change your spring perches and cut-off both front and rear frame mounts to replace them with ones that will have to be wider to accommodate the wider spring. Did you do that? Because the factory didn't for metric ton springs. ^^^ Maybe Kudo is confusing "wider" with "thicker", i.e. the 5-leaf MT springs vs. the 4-leaf standard springs. :dunno:

If you're not getting good pressure buildup that's holding during the bleed procedure I seriously doubt it's anything to do with the height sensing valve. My HSV works fine and I've never had to do any special bleeding for it. I think the problem is probably your master cylinder. Has your master cylinder gone near-dry during all the brake work you have been doing? If so it may be air-bound. You can "bench bleed" the master on the vehicle by disconnecting the front and rear output lines and using a bench bleed kit with flex hose immersed back into the reservoirs to slowly pump the air bubbles out. If $$ are tight, I'd try that before investing in a new master / booster, although the 95-96 dual diaphragm booster and master is a great brake upgrade that should be done.

Long beds rule brother. ;)

Of course. http://comancheclub.com/topic/41929-installing-a-1996-throttle-body-mounted-map-sensor/