HOrnbrod

I'll be another Captain Obvious and agree it could be valve seals. :yes: But first check for a clogged CCV orifice and/or broken or blocked CCV tubing and hoses from the valve cover.

Instrument cluster ground. Doubtful. A bad dash ground would cause other faults. But worth a shot to refresh.

Does that mean your temp gauge was indicating correctly (~210* op temp) before that day? Also, do you know the p/n of the gauge temp sensor you used?

Naw. The whisk broom gives the finish nice character lines.

I prefer oil-based barn paint applied with a whisk broom.

:thumbsup:

I don't care about CAPS - WTF is the BACK FOOT?

Check the solenoid coils with an ohmmeter first before replacing them. You don't need an FSM to check them for continuity. Takes about ten minutes.

Bummer. Sounds like you have some ground loops or a skinned wire present. Do you have a multimeter with the 10A jack? If so, you can put it in series with your positive battery cable and start pulling circuit fuses one by one until the parasitic current stops flowing. That should get you in the right ballpark

According to the Jeep Forum, it's for a 87, 88, & 89 YJ. It should be close.

Ohm out the three AW4 solenoids next: http://comancheclub.com/topic/34253-aw4-transmission-computer-testing/?hl=solenoid&do=findComment&comment=343865

C100 connector, but can not find the year for it. Check the color codes and compared to your 88. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attachments/f11/129278d1278084205-looking-bulkhead-connector-diagram-bulkhead.gif

88 Electrical Manual: https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?cid=C40904CFDA278A46&resid=c40904cfda278a46!140&qt=sharedby&app=WordPdf

?for-what-vehicle?

Back foot? I have no idea what you are referring to. :hmm:

Did you try adjusting the throttle valve cable? The adjustment is at the end of this link: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Transmission_and_Transfer_Case/Transmission_Throttle_Cable_Replacement.htm

If your grounds are good, another possibility is ignition switch adjustment or a fried ignition switch connector. It sounds like it's not returning fully to the OFF position. Check the rod on the steering column, move it back and forth and see if the idiot lights go off. . Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning On non-tilt columns: Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered. Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). On tilt columns: Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position. Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). Install any components removed for switch access.

Correct, the 95 and 96 pistons carry different part numbers. These are the standard piston assemblies available for the 96 engine: 1996 4798329, 6, "B" Size, 3.8742 4798330, 6, "C" Size, 3.8746 4798331, 6, "D" Size, 3,8750 4798332, 6, "E" Size, 3.8754 4798333, 6, "F" Size, 3.8758 The rods are all the same.

94-99 actually.

Nice caveat. The "partial" list of requirements is comical. It's just a new twist on CFC and doesn't surprise or piss me off at all. It's just Cali.

Good to hear. :cheers: The early HO distributors are tricky to get in right. Awhile back the sync sensor on my 91 distributor went out (fault code). To change the sync sensor on the 91-93 distributors you have to pull it out, remove the gear and shaft, and tear it completely down. It's a PITA. The 94 and up distributors do not require removal to change the sync sensor, it's all done from the top. I found a reasonably priced NOS 95 distributor and stuck it in (with similar tooth alignment problems as you had), and it runs great. So when you can, grab a newer distributor for a spare from a 94 and up at the yard for easy replacement when (not if) your sync sensor goes out. Also just to verify it's right, you can stick a timing light on #1 and look at the timing marks on the timing chain cover at about 2K RPM. It'll jump around a bit, but the light should be fairly steady @ 14* - 18* BTDC. You can't adjust timing, but at least you can see if the advance signal from the ECU is proper. 94 - 99 distributor

Google HAY226204 and download the Hayden catalog. I read this controller has a total amp capacity of 30A.

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/94-cherokee-4-0-starting-timing-issue-91667/index2/

PM sent.

Which electric fans will you be using? You need to know the amp rating on this unit, and if it uses internal solid state or external mechanical relays. If you are using the stock 10-blade XJ fans, they can pull up to 25A each on startup.