HOrnbrod

Yeah, even with a right angle drill there's not enough room to drill on the drivers side to drill and use easy out if they are broken off flush. The good is that the bosses are intact, the bad is that you can't get access to get the bolt remains out of the bosses. Bummer.

Since you will be going from a 3.07 to 3.55 on your D44, no worries about the carrier since the break is 3.73. I went from 3.55 to 4.10 when I re-geared my D44 and used "thick" gears which enabled me to keep my existing limited slip carrier. In your case it's a simple R&P re-gear. I like the original Dana gear sets the best, but they didn't make the "thick" gears I needed. So I went with Yukon gears. I've used Yukon gear sets in the past too with good results. A bit more than the offshore Chinese gears, but worth the extra $$ I think. But who knows - maybe they are all manufactured offshore now..........

I've looked into this a bit in the past. To elaborate for the 91-92 ECUs, there is no pin 10 appearance on the 60-pin ECU connector on these models. Applying a ground signal to this pin from the "Extended Idle" dash switch is what will cause the increased idle. Since there is no pin 10 on the ECU, you will have to modify the motherboard in the ECU to extend pin 10 either to the existing 60-pin connector, or run a wire out externally so you can connect the ground signal applied by the extended idle dash switch. Was not worth the effort for me.

Seconded and thirded. Keep the D44, re-gear to 3.55, then slide convert to rear disks later at your convenience if needed. This I would think is an important consideration for your rig. :thumbsup:

Good question. It for sure isn't in the parts manuals throughout the XJ/MJ years.

You didn't read the fine print.

Mucho kudos to Krusty for producing quality affordable MJ hitches unobtainable anywhere else. This hitch problem was blabbed about for maybe a couple of years with zero results before Krusty filled the void. Every MJ should have a hitch, because someday you'll need it. Krusty, you are a doer mate, not a blabber. No need to explain the methodology to anyone as I see it.

No, I was referring to the OP's 1993 XJ parts donor. However the XJ pivoting vent window part number did change in 1993, but I have no idea why.

A couple of things I can think of are the throttle body mounted MAP sensor, and the OBD2 test port in the cab.

More bling is always good. :chillin:

I'd sure like to see a pic of it. They are not shown as an option in the parts manual anywhere that I can find. :hmm:

True. There were no OBD1 96 XJ models; they were all classified as OBD2. Depending on transmissions, LHD or RHD, exports, and all the other things that determine the various engine computers, the 96 PCM's were all OBD2 compliant. The 96 sensors were all the same across the board for the year too depending on equipment. But there were a few unique 1996-only sensors, like the MAP, which could explain the possible differences in wiring harnesses. But the parts manual shows no mid-year changes for the wiring harnesses; they are all the same for the 96 year. There are definite unique parts for the 1996 OBD1 to OBD2 conversion models, just as there were for the 1991 conversion from Renix to OBD1.

Where? And they are stainless.

Something like the below should work for your 15" wheels. The originals and long gone. http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-WILLYS-15-STAINLESS-STEEL-WHEEL-TRIM-RINGS-BEAUTY-RIMS-GLAMOUR-RING-BAND-/380450465259?fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item58949d65eb&vxp=mtr

I WANT YOUR SEATS! :bowdown:

My 91 had the idiot light cluster originally.

PM sent.

:huh???:

Get your lift done, then use the link lengths that position the sway bar arms ~20* above horizontal. The Ford F350 rear sway bar links (MOOG K80035) were the right length for me.

The two spoke wheel wasn't even offered from the factory on the 91 and up base or whatever trim MJ.

If you are referring to your 91 the pink radio harness wire is 12V constant and the VIO/WHT wire is switched 12V. Anyhow, if your battery is alive tomorrow, unplug the radio and check the draw again..

Most all radios, CD players, etc. have a non-switched 12V constant input. For sure the stock radios in our trucks do.

Have you unplugged your radio?

Could be dirty cluster harness connectors. Unplug and clean with contact cleaner. Are your gauges sometimes spastic too?