HOrnbrod

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=52

Advice: Post which items you want in the Classifieds - Wanted forum. You sure can. Just drive your rig to a local shop and get an estimate.

There's only one wire for the auto shift indicator. It threads down and out through a hole in the bottom of the cluster and is clipped on to the rotating part of steering column housing, i.e. rotating when you shift through the A/T gears.

$11,500 only. http://www.hillcityhotrods.com/windowsticker.php?vehicle=788160&1996%20JEEP%20CHEROKEE%20GREY

:thumbsup:

You can see the whitish vacuum line going to the heater water control valve in the below picture. If your valve has been eliminated as most have, make sure that vacuum line is plugged.

^^^ The washer tubing is most likely split where it connects to the nozzle or at the "Y" fitting. Might as well replace all the tubing while you are in there.

Выглядит, как отличный автомобиль! :)

The gray connector. Pin E goes to your backup lights, + side. But verify it with your ohmmeter to be sure it's continuity. The backup lamp ground is behind the left tail lamp. So take the 12V output from your new backup switch on the AX-15 and connect it to pin E and it should work fine. You can also test the circuit by applying 12V to gray connector pin E and your backup lamps should illuminate.

.. = i = Aye, as in Aye, understood. Ancient Morse code. Yuk-yuk..........

..

More. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331682580767?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649

HERE

I did a quick search using the factory part numbers for both the pad and bumper. Nada anywhere.............

Glad it works for ya. :thumbsup:

Follow the ignition switch actuator rod............. This link will save you some time: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/basic-maintenance-ignition-switch-1226376/

Probably the ignition switch, it's connector, or it's mis-aligned. Ignition switch, p/n J3250576, available at Rockauto and others. Ignition switch alignment: Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning On non-tilt columns: Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered. Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). On tilt columns: Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position. Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). Install any components removed for switch access.

We don't need no stinking shafts or levers or cables with power mirrors. :rotfl2: Image Not Found

Check out the clearance between the exhaust pipe and cross member. Also checl the condition of the rubber exhaust hanger.

^^ This My simple gear ratio vs. tire size rule of thumb compromise for combined on and off road driving: 31" tires - 4.10 32" tires - 4.10 for mostly street, 4.56 for mostly trail 33" tires - 4.56

New OEM MJ shackles are still available at around $50/ea. Replacement bushings were never offered from the factory.........

It's a 93-98 ZJ steering gear box, not WJ. The WJ box is a different animal. The ZJ Pitman has a 1" drop as compared to the MJ/XJ box, so unless you have higher than a 3" lift, you need to retain your original Pitman arm to maintain the track bar / drag link parallel geometry. All the ZJ steering parts from a V8 ZJ (track bar, drag link, tie rod) are direct bolt-in swaps and considered upgrades because they are beefier. Your existing power steering pump will work fine with the ZJ steering gear - been done many times. Even on a Renix.

Kind of expensive, but at least you don't have to pull the engine.

http://browndogindustries.com/S2572LHX-Cherokee-Comanche-I6-Engine-Super-Bracket-Header-Left.aspx