Jump to content

HOrnbrod

Moderators
  • Posts

    20174
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    28

Everything posted by HOrnbrod

  1. The original MJ/XJ Chrysler windshields (55000553, 55134793, 55154994AB tint differences) are obsolete parts and NLA.
  2. That's a no-brainer unless you want a new axle for some reason. $100 for clutch packs and maybe $150-$200 labor for the install. At least around here..........
  3. The only accurate way to tell which injectors you'll need is running the built engine on the dyno or in the vehicle using an AFR meter. For sure you will need an adjustable FPR to dial the injectors in, so I'd go with the 24psi injectors you have now and see how they perform using the meter. For my 4.6 stroker the 23.2psi Mopar 53030778 injectors running at 46psi gave me the best all-around AFR ratio across idle and WOT conditions. You engine sounds like it will be a bit "hotter" than mine, but you can always go bigger later if necessary. Let us know how those Sharp roller rockers work - I'm seriously considering them or the Yella Terras. .
  4. Just removed one of the sheet metal screws and drilled it out to 1/4" instead of drilling a new hole. There are two others still holding the collar. The two random 3/8" holes were too large to use, and I have no idea why they are there. Do you have these holes also on your 91?
  5. ^^ Most likely this. However the transmission brackets for the cable may be loose, or the bushing at the end of the cable is worn, or even MIA. Bushing replacements are available. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Transmission_and_Transfer_Case/Transmission_Automatic_Shifter_Adjustments.htm http://comancheclub.com/topic/51298-transmission-not-responding-to-shifter-aw4/?hl=bushing&do=findComment&comment=522543
  6. Yes there is; Mopar makes it. It's touch-up paint based on the interior or exterior paint code on the firewall tag. I have a can of it I've had for years somewhere around here - will find it later and shoot you the p/n. http://www.quadratec.com/products/92156_20XX_PG.htm
  7. HOrnbrod

    new toy :)

    I spent many hours using similar when I worked in various Navy Calibration Labs years ago, mostly Tektronix scopes. Looks like a good one - have fun. :cheers:
  8. Also use an appropriately sized ANL type fuse (150A in my case) in the alt output circuit to protect your electrical system. Cheap insurance.
  9. Yep, same cap. You can also buy a new Mopar tether like the one below (p/n 5278461AA), drill a 1/4" hole in the center of your existing gas cap handle and another in the fuel filler pipe liner, then pop the tether ends in the new holes. I did mine a long time ago with a locking gas cap.
  10. As will I. It's the best bang for the buck now and down the road. :cheers:
  11. Good explanation John. Gojeep's cutting down the filler tube to increase capacity makes perfect sense now. :cheers:
  12. The fact that this truck is an HO and it's looks to be in relatively good shape for a "northern" vehicle makes the local $6K Canadian ($4480 US) price very reasonable. Down here that 91 would have a hard time fetching $3K on a good day.
  13. As far as I know, the purpose of gas tank baffles, i.e. strategically placed plates, were to limit the transfer of fuel weight on turns to improve stability, cut down on fuel slosh, and keep the slosh from beating the crap out of the fuel sender lever/float assembly giving erroneous gauge readings. A tank baffle doesn't limit the capacity, si? What you are saying is that an internal compartment, not a baffle, was added to limit capacity. Correct me if I'm wrong..........
  14. No one took you seriously anyhow mate. Now finish that bad boy up! :cheers:
  15. Yes, it should. I just shoved a piece of heatshrink tube over it and cooked it a little bit sealing it up. :)
  16. Don't forget to remove the puny stock PDC feed wire (~#6 AWG) from the alt when you get all the new bigger cables installed. Or you can leave it hooked up for possible backup purposes, but disconnect it and tie wrap the insulated cable ends up out of the way. Disco at the connector that pulls apart about in the middle of the cable.
  17. That's a bit high, but not excessive. It normally jumps about 25*. What is the timing degree reading at a steady 1K RPM? It will jump around some, but should read close to 16*-22* BTDC average. Check the voltage on the GRY/WHT coil connector wire with the ignition ON. It should be close to 12VDC. Check the 4-wire cable that comes out from under the distributor cap and make sure it fits in it's slot, not pinched, and check the wires to make sure they are not skinned.
  18. That pic is about eight years old Fred. It looks much better now. :yes: #7 is the HVAC vacuum harness.........
  19. That's the vacuum hose to the heater water control valve. It goes to a vacuum harness under the dash eventually ending up on the HVAC temp control port. Most everyone with 91 and up models has plugged off that vacuum hose in the engine bay, removed the water control valve, and replaced the heater hoses with 97 and up heater hoses. The factory abandoned this valve in 1997, and you really don't need it.
  20. If a sensor's reference voltage is low, the sensor output voltage will also be proportionally low. That's why you always check the reference voltage first. I'm pretty sure the ECU 5VDC reference voltage tolerance is ± .2V. Testing the OBD1 TPS
  21. The parts manual shows: Top Bolt: J4006192, 3/8"x16, 1-3/4" Long Bottom Bolt: 11502689, 10mm x 1.5, 1.18" Long This is the way my starter is mounted, and I recently changed it out. And my starter was original. Both bolts were over 25mm (.98") long for sure, and are pretty easy to mix up if you didn't know they were different.
  22. Excellent pics as usual. Enjoyed viewing. :cheers:
  23. D44 carrier break = 3.73 & down / 3.92 & up
  24. JeepCo had an odd sense of humor Adam. :yes:
×
×
  • Create New...