HOrnbrod

Dana 44.

Correct.

You can replace your seat bottom with one from any right or left MJ/XJ bucket seat up to and including the 1994 models. They are all the same, and you reuse your existing upholstery cover on the replacement. It's best to get a passenger side seat bottom from the yard as they are always in better shape. I replaced my drivers side with a NOS unit a few years ago. You can still get them but they are quite expensive. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-CHRYSLER-PAD-PAN-FRT-SEAT-CUSH-55195850-/322203028663?hash=item4b04cc0cb7:g:1rYAAOSwIgNXlHJs&vxp=mtr Image Not Found Image Not Found

Good to hear.

Eagle, the OP is just repeating this gibberish from Novak....

For the 44 you can use a "thick" R&P gear set, retain your existing carrier, and go to any ratio above the carrier break. I did this when I regeared my D44 from 3.55 to 4.10. Works great. I don't know if they make thick gears for the front D30 though...........

The Mopar cooler looks like this. All my XJs had one, but my MJ didn't. It's plumbed in the return line. Small, but it does the job. Your Hayden looks a lot better though..........

What is the measurement between the upper and lower shock stud mounts on the truck at rest on the ground?

I meant the external factory cooler, not the radiator cooler, and should have been more specific, my bad. I've had many XJs with the AW4 and never had any problems with overheating. All had the external factory cooler. Do your recommended fluid and filter changes and it will be fine. That being said, a larger external cooler is even better, and it was one of the first things I did after getting the stroker.

inefficient.............. Don't believe everything you read on the Novak site. Under normal ops with the factory cooler and the 4.0 the AW4 is just fine. For heavy towing, a larger cooler is recommended, as it would be in any light-to-medium duty auto transmission.

Invest in an Electrical FSM.

What is the measurement between the upper and lower shock stud mounts?

Gamblers. Everything Adam has is clean. He pisses me off. :)

^^ This. The aluminum hub is probably too thin to get enough thread surface for Permatex and the others to bond properly. Use through bolts with steel insert lock nuts (not nylocks) or Stage 8 nuts, even better.

Where in FL are you?

Butt fugly maximus. Anything longer than an extended cab (no extra door) I hate. I would like to see an extended cab MJ made from a longbed, keeping the same wheelbase and using the shortbed box. I think that would be sharp and super useful too. Anyone with computer graphics skills that can whip one up? Anyone? Minuit? :yes:

The pots of the Renix (and HO) fuel sending units are spot welded to the housing so it would be difficult to swap in a different pot even if you could find one. The voltage polarity output and ohms rating (low resistance to high = empty-to-full reading or vice-versa) of the tank sender must also match closely what is required by your 99 fuel gauge for the gauge to read correctly. The Renix and HO sender pots are polarity opposites so one or the other might be close enough for accurate readings if the pot ohms are close enough. Either sending unit will fit in your MJ tank. The HO sender puts out 105 ohms for empty and 5 ohms for full. I don't know what the Renix pot value is; it's close to the HO's but of opposite polarity. Someone will probably chime in with the Renix values. So first thing you need to do is find out the resistance and polarity of the 99 XJ fuel sender pot (it's in the FSM) and match that as close as possible with either an HO or Renix sender. Clear as mud? :yes: EDIT: I just saw over on NAXJA that the 98 XJ sender ohms scale is the below. I have no idea if this is correct and/or if the 98 and 99 senders are the same. If this data is correct, the Renix sender is the correct polarity, but the ohms value will be off. How "off" this will show up on your gauge I don't know. Hook up your existing Renix sender to input your 99 dash fuel gauge and see how accurate it reads..........

Maybe the builder just likes Ranger tail gates.

Lol, they cost me $10 at the junkyard. They also used these lights in some VW's, so they're not expensive. .

Go Spoked B...........

Dielectric grease is what you use sparingly on electrical connector boots to seal out moisture. An example is spark plug boots. As long as you didn't gob a spoonful of grease inside the socket between the bulb and socket contacts you should be fine.

That's a pretty rare FSJ model with a great body. Good resto candidate.

Those lights have no local switch so you can only turn them on/off by the door switch, si? I used some Bosch lights out of a Porsch 911 that rock laterally similar to the crappy Renault lights they replaced so you could turn them on/off w/o the door being opened. Euramtec makes a decent 3-pole light too. Also, try swapping in some LED replacement bulbs for more light and less heat. :thumbsup:

I wish Atlanta would donate the Braves and Falcons to Canada too. They would play much better if their fans were anything like the Blue Jays' fans. Atlanta fans suck.......

Looks like they may get it contained today since the wind has died down some. Hope all is well Jim.........