HOrnbrod

These are the brackets: http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-Jeep-JK-Rear-Long-Travel-Upper-Shock-Mount-Sway-Bar-Relocation-Bracket-p-29981.html I bought them originally for my JK but they work great for the MJ/XJ front bar too.

The Synergy sway bar mounts fit fine. They just were not installed yet when I took the pics of the HiCountry brackets.

Reckon your MJ is jealous and protesting? :yes:

They look pretty rough Adam..........

I'm not selling anything. This isn't in the classified forum............

You started out this thread stating your fuel pump wasn't working. What was wrong with it? Wouldn't run? No fuel pressure?

The 30" BBLB-1 bar from: http://detoursusa.com/bumperbrow.php

Yes, you are. Damn G, does that mean we have to wait another six years for the next update? :yes: I'm anxious to see/hear how that new Hesco motor with the Edelbrock head works. C'mon man, step it up! :cheers:

Err, yes I did. I'll reword the title; it's confusing. I don't use the stock tow hook brackets; I'm using the HiCountry brackets I worked on with Matt Bush years ago. .

It's plastic flex U-channel for lining the edges of holes in sheet metal. I've had a roll of it for years and always use it on 2" dia. holes or greater. And yes John, it's mainly used for sheet metal and protects wire bundles from sharp edges when pulling through. It looks more finished w/o the edge showing for applications like these I think. Besides, I like additional garnish. :)

...and TIRES. I MISSED that.

A 235/75/r17 tire is slightly over 30" tall. 30.3" on a couple I looked up. So 17's would fit with the right tire and offset it appears.

Yep, about $50-$60, p/n 5252438. Mopar calls it a SENSOR, Distance, on Trans. The p/n crosses to Duralast, Standard, Airtex, etc. p/n's and all the aftermarkets call it a speed sensor. It's just a reed switch in a case, so I wouldn't mind an aftermarket unit in this case.

All the 91-96 TPS's are all the same, so the one you took off had a problem. You might try cleaning it up with some throttle body cleaner and try it again. How's the 96 MAP working for you? I have that too, but on an aftermarket 62mm bored throttle body.

For the more "Important" sensors, like the CPS, O2, MAP, VSS, Sync; anything that can cause a no-start, or no-run / crappy run condition I always use NOS Mopar. Since they last 15-20 years originally I'll stick with NOS Mopar if I can find them. But that's just me. :thumbsup: You really need to check your fault codes too. Of course everything doesn't show up, but most problems do. The HO OBD1 system isn't like a Renix where you can test most all the sensors with a multimeter or other common test equipment.

Reading fault codes: http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/ It's best to verify correct fuel pressure with a gauge. Just because you have some pressure doesn't mean the engine will run. You can rent a gauge from Autozone or similar to do a check. It does sound like an electrical prioblem though. I've had two no start conditions on my 91 4.0. One was a bad CPS. There's really no foolproof way you can check them with a meter on an HO. Also aftermarket CPS's are know bad right out of the box. For replacement I would recommend a Mopar unit. The other no-start was caused by a bad distributor sync sensor. This showed up as a fault code. In order to replace the 91-92 sync sensor you need to pull the distributor and disassemble it completely as it sits at the bottom of the shaft. Instead of that I just use the more modern 94 and up dizzy. The sync sensor site right on top under the rotor and is easy to replace next time. From a previous post: "Installed the NOS 94-99 dizzy today since I'm getting a code 54 (Distributor sync pickup - Change sync sensor in distributor). Picked up a new 94 Mopar unit for just a little more than buying a new sync pickup for the original 91 unit. Anyhow, got her in and clocked right, plugged all the wires back in, and crank/crank/crank with no start. Rechecked everything about umpteen times, even reset the dizzy using the TDC compression stroke procedure. Was getting pissed and suspected the new dizzy pickup was bad or it had a compatibility issue with the 91 system and was going to throw the old distributor back in just to see if it would start. But tried it one more time after rechecking again and mistakenly put the old dizzy cap on. BOOM, started right up instantly. The The 91-93 and 94-99 distributors are completely different. They use the same cap but the rotor is different. I noticed I had put the old cap on, the engine ran fine, and immediately deduced something might be wrong with the new cap. Clever, right? :idea: Turned out that the carbon push button in the cap that the rotor rides on was completely disintegrated and stuck and I had an good sized air gap on the dizzy output to the coil. :doh: I guess after twenty years or so sitting on a shelf stuff happens. Three hours to complete what is normally 30 minute job. Lesson learned. She runs great now w. no more fault codes."

Looked it up Frank, shows up in the parts book as 91-92 being the same, then 93 went to the 3-wire. When you guys change them out, are you using the Mopar VSS (p/n 5252438) or aftermarket? My speedo hasn't acted up yet, but I'd like to have a spare handy.

If you haven't checked the vac line to the firewall yet, that's probably the problem. Look around the battery where it passes through the firewall.

I could have used one of those in 7mm yesterday when changing out my tired old front air dam w/o removing the bumper. :thumbsup:

You don't need a larger vac can for the new booster. If the vac system and HVAC doors were working fine before you changed the brake booster, therein must be the problem? Check the booster vacuum check valve. If okay, try the below procedure: Test Power Brake Booster If the pedal feels "hard" while the engine is running, the booster isn't operating correctly. If you suspect the booster is defective, do not attempt to disassemble or repair the power booster. Doing so is unsafe and will void your warranty. Test 1 With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to remove any residual vacuum in the booster. Hold pressure on the pedal while you start the engine. When the engine starts, the pedal should drop about a 1/4", this indicates that the booster is working properly. Test 2 Run the engine a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and press the pedal several times slowly. The first pump should be fairly low. The second and third should become slightly firmer. This indicates an airtight booster. Test 3 Start the engine and press the brake pedal, then stop the engine with the pedal still pressed. If the pedal does not drop after holding the pressure on the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight. Inspect the Check Valve Disconnect the vacuum hose where it connects to the intake manifold. Do not disconnect the vacuum line from the booster. Air should not flow when pressure is applied, but should flow when suction is applied. If air flows in both directions or there is no air flow, the valve needs to be replaced. Verify Enough Vacuum Check the operating vacuum pressure when the engine is at normal operating temperature. There should be a minimum of 18 in. of vacuum. Vacuum may be increased by properly tuning the engine, checking for vacuum leaks and blockages in vacuum lines.

Have you checked for fault codes using the key? Have you checked fuel pressure while cranking with a pressure gauge?

These various conversion boxes all look like they require the 3-wire Hall effect VSS sine wave input. I know the 91's and some 92's use the 2-wire magnetic reed switch VSS and have a square wave signal output, so converting those vehicles to the 3-wire VSS would be necessary.

Err, call them and ask?

They don't last. They are cheap plastic as compared to the OEM nylon bushings. Last set I put in only went around five years before the wipers started slapping off the windshield again. Two of them were split open. I lubed them up too when installing. The set I have in now have been in for four years, so I expect them to crap out pretty soon too. But AFAIK they are the only game in town........ But since you used doorman instead of the Dorman junk, maybe yours are better quality. :yes: