HOrnbrod

Yep, that makes good sense. Another reason why I'll never mount one of those things.

I'd try jacking up the rear end and place jack stands under the axle, chock the front wheels, start the engine and put it in Drive, and slowly get the rear wheels turning up to 20MPH or so. If no whine you can eliminate the driveshaft, AW4, and rear diff and start looking for things up front like a wheel bearing, etc.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/50837-replacing-mitsubishi-starter-motor-brushes/?hl=brushes

You must be Mr. Wonderful hisself.

Spend some time crawling around underneath the truck as well as carefully eyeballing the engine bay too. ID the rear axle if you can, but this truck looks like it's the bare bones edition since it has no A/C. And just for grins bring a pocket magnet and place it on the normal rust places to see if it sticks. If the seller is hiding anything they don't like to see potential buyers doing things like this. It sure looks very legit to me though. :thumbsup:

Agree. Bone stock, low mileage, and all the original sweetness looks unmolested. Obviously well cared for, and it's the first year for the MJ 4.0 engine. Trucks like that don't come around very often. I'd run a VIN check on it to make sure everything is as it seems, and if it checks out it's worth the asking price. And of course try the haggling dance as Tim suggests to knock the price down a bit if possible.

No engine or undercarriage pics. :shake: That's the first thing I want to see. Cosmetics are secondary. VIN : 1J7FT36S6ML557069 Country : United States Manufacturer : Jeep Corporation Vehicle Type : Truck Gross Vehicle Weight : 4001#-5000# [1815/2268 Kg] Line (Body Type) : Cherokee 4x2, Comanche 4x2 Series (Body Type) : Pioneer, Islander (M) Body Style : Truck, 2-door Pickup Engine : 4.0L 6 Cyl. (Gas) Unleaded Fuel (ERH) Check Digit : 6 Year : 1991 Plant Location : Toledo #1, Ohio, USA Sequential Serial Number : 557069 Check Digit Test : VIN valide

If you can push that big old Goldwing around this new job will be cake for you. :thumbsup: Congrats!

56000217 shows up in the parts manual as: HOSE, Receiver To Evaporator for 84-85 models. The below is the 89 factory A/C hose diagram. Do your hoses look like this? If not you may have dealer installed A/C. If so, which hose are you looking for? You can download the correct Parts Manual for your truck HERE.

56006218.

I'm not sure about the TV cable either. To be sure I'd send an email to the builder of whichever shifter you buy and ask.

I sent him a PM over on the Strokers forum - hopefully he will reply. Jesus, peaking at nearly 7000RPM at the finish is amazing in that it's still making power and hasn't blown up. I've never had my stroker close to that RPM. I chicken out at around 5500...............

Saw this on the Stroker forum tonight: https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5341 Member here under a different alias?

The AW4 switched to the 23 spline shaft in 1990, although some of the early 90 models were still 21. The correct flex plate is one from an 89 or 90. Obviously the easiest way to do this conversion would be to find a donor 1990 XJ or MJ with an AW4 and pick the parts you want from it.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GT00/JP5A/02539.oap?year=1987&make=Jeep&model=Comanche&vi=1181461&ck=Search_02539_1181461_-1&pt=02539&ppt=C0025#compatibilityTab_ Better make sure there are no baffles in this tank before ordering............. EDIT: The description states there are no sump baffles, so I would assume it will work.

Sounds like a tap dance..............

This is another example of sellers' LED wordsmith. They never provide the individual LED lumen output, or the total amp draw in their specs. They only provide the LED watt rating because that is what everyone is used to with incandescent lights. No way this LED bar will draw 56 A. When I want to find out the amp draw of a 12VDC load that might be over the 10A limit of my multimeter, I use my battery charger as a power supply. It has a ammeter with a 100A surge capability, with a circuit breaker will trip on anything over that. The ammeter is not precision, but it will indicate the total amp draw within 25% or so and give enough info to set up your circuit.

I can't tell by your pics that it's off. What's the measurement from the inner backplate face to the outboard edge of the perch on the L and R sides?

I have those same Cooper AT3 265/75r15 on my truck with ~2.5" of lift and 7" "turbine" wheels. Absolutely no rubbing anywhere. But I have the curved WJ LCAs and do agree with John above that with the stock LCAs you will have some LCA rubbing at full steering lock. Recommend swapping in WJ LCAs to be sure and they also provide a nice handling upgrade with the sturdier bushings.

The Renix and HO pulley mounting plates are not even close. Look it up. For the 4.0: 87-90, 53002904, BRACKET, Idler Pulley Mounting - w/o Air Conditioning 91-93, 53006551, BRACKET, Idler Pulley Mounting - w/o Air Conditioning

Good solid CC member with a good solid truck. Congratulations and well deserved. :cheers:

Thanks Yella. I never knew such a car existed. After reading it looks like I wasn't the only one. I do like it though. It sold for $12,100. Well bought I think.

^^^ What are you are trying to say? Are you criticizing or justifying the $55K price? :hmm:

^^^ Love that Volare. Had a couple back in the day; both slant sixes. Nearly as good of an engine as the 4.0. What's the history on the "Petty" Volare? Never have seen one of these................

Looks like the cat and dog were forced to share the same sleeping space and neither one of them is happy about it. :yes: