onlyinajeep726

If you use a '96, the fuel system is different. It uses a returnless system, where the regulator is in the tank, as opposed to on the fuel rail, with a return line. Not sure what the means for the MJ fuel sending unit since the XJ one is not a direct swap. I'm sure it could be converted, but I personally have no experience with this. I have contemplated it though since I have recently acquired a totalled '96 and I really want to shove the whole thing into my '86 (though there's nothing wrong with my Renix 4.0 I put it in a few years ago). I do know this swap has been done with success.

What year is the Jeep and is it the factory brake system (IE, not been upgraded)?

How much did he charge to re-gear it for you?

In an effort to not be a dunce, could you post a link or part number to the couplers you used? I'm not trying to order the wrong stuff I replied to your PM, but if you'd like, I can post a picture of some of my recent work illustrating what I mean, if you think that would help. No need to buy fancy fittings. I haven't had any leak nor cause any other issue.

I just used fuel injection line (3/8" ID) and fuel line hose (5/16" ID), hose clamps, and brass barbed couplers (3/8" and 5/16" respectfully).

Sucks you're so far away... I have a Dana 44, 3.07 gear, with factory limited-slip sitting in my garage that needs a new home for the right price.

Mine was manifold bolts. Tighten them with the strength of Thor and also do the aforementioned suggestions with the TB, IAC, etc.

Yea, I already inquired about the parking brake recall. That inevitably ended up being a waste of time, as I expected. I got into contact with folks way up there at ChryCo only to have them tell me that they would gladly honor the recall if I could find a dealership that still had parts. Basically, that's where it was apparent that they really had no intention to honor said recall. I've since decided to swap over to an XJ hand-brake. Also, I've since acquired two more MJ foot-brakes, so I'm good.

Swap the leaf packs to the opposite side if that's where the majority of your lean is coming from...

Yep, not bad. If you have any questions, feel free to message me. :thumbsup:

Long bed has shocks front side of axle, short bed is rear side of axle. Did the PO set up the axle spring under like factory or spring over?

Swapping a 4.0/AX15/242 into an '86 isn't too bad. Firewall and radiator support aren't hard to change on it either. The only thing I would have done differently is cut the firewall section that needed to be clearanced, and welded a new section in from an 4.0 equipped MJ/XJ. Unfortunately, I didn't have a good grasp on welding, especially thin metal, so I just gave it the big hammer approach. Check my build, in my signature. You'll see plenty of pictures and tips.

Well I'll be... if that's 15 then I'm only 17....

Perhaps. That may be the reason they made the change '87 onward since the introduction of the 4.0.

I think I'm going to do what strokermj suggested. After thinking about it after posting this, that's what I had concluded would be the easiest route.

So, I'm in the progress (slow at that haha) of lifting my '86. I've completed the rear (SOA 8.8) and now I'm getting to work on the front. I'm using RE's drop brackets, RE 5.5" springs, RE Extreme adj. TB, etc. Anyway, the problem I'm running into is the way the UCA bolts to the frame. On all MJ's and XJ's I've had experience with, there is a hole in the outer frame where the bolt goes in and through the arm, then a nut on the inner mount to hold it in place. However, on my '86, the bolts goes in on the inner frame side and there's a nut spot welded in the frame rail, and no hole on the outer frame. That's all fine and well, but the problem is that the bolt has about 1.5-2 inches between the head of it and the bell housing on the transmission, thus, it's impossible to get it out to install the drop brackets. The pictures below will probably make more sense than my explanation. Any ideas on what I can do short of pulling the trans out of the way (which I'm not doing lol).

Tensioned too tight? All your pulleys running true (no wobble)?

If that's an issue with these MC's, that's a $h!##% design... Got me wanting to check mine now.

A well deserved win for a unique MJ and creative owner!

Yes, Brent sold me one he had. Thanks again!

If you keep the wiring and computer the Renix stuff, then you will NOT need to change the fuel pump because you would be swapping the '89s intake manifold onto the '97 motor. However, I would like to know more about the donor vehicle (trans. mainly -- manual or auto?) and same for the MJ.

It's a port for vacuum off of your intake manifold. As to what connects to it, I'm not 100%. But that big hose doesn't connect to that. What year is your MJ, Renix era? *EDIT: I realize it's a Renix era upon closer inspection of your pic... That nipple goes to the CCV breather on the back of the valve cover, seen below:

^^ This, but you will have to remove the drive shaft to give you room.

^^ This.

You sure they put the correct fluid and correct amount of fluid in? They didn't put an GL-5 rated oil in, did they? If so, you're in big trouble.