onlyinajeep726

Sending positive vibes and juju to you and Joe.

I was planning to flex her out to see about clearance in that regard. I also thought about your suggestion of driving over them, but personal preference, I want the quad to sit level. I also have a 46" mower that I could get in the back if the wheel wells were just a bit further apart, so more motivation for the mod...

I'll see if I have do a side by side using my friend's XJ with harness and 80/100 watt H4's. I mainly wanted to illustrate with the above image the light spread, and show it's not all up in the trees and oncoming lane like HIDs in halogen housings are.

Good thinking! Definitely don't want to cut or disturb that...

Not sure if this belongs in "Tech" or not, so admins, feel free to move if necessary. I want to be able to haul my Honda Foreman 450 four wheeler in the back of my MJ, but after measuring, I've come to realize that the width of my ATV is about two inches too wide to fit between the wheel wells. I got the wild idea to scoot them over on each side to make this possible. My '86 is SOA lifted, so tire rub isn't a concern. Do y'all think this is a good idea? To give y'all an idea of what I'm thinking, here's a very tedious and detailed visual, created by yours truly, in MS Paint no less haha. :shake: Comments and concerns are welcomed and appreciated.

I would love to see how bright these are. Here you go...

So where do you pick one of these up and how much? Never sold in the U.S. as a direct injection diesel. Not much support in the U.S. for the engine? That is why I have chosen the VW TDI engine to put in my original 86 MJ diesel. Lots of support for the VW TDI engine. Considerable number of Jeep Cherokee/TDI swaps have been done and a number of suppliers for the conversion parts needed. Not to mention a great pathway for more power in the VW TDI. All in all, the Chevrolet V8 conversion path is the easiest and least expensive out there. It might be interesting to use the Chevy V6 engine, just to be a little different, but the aluminum block, aluminum heads version of the Chevy V8 is just SO attractive. Only long term issue is keeping the temperatures under control. I don't know, to be honest... I only recently heard about it on CherokeeForum. I did a little research and found a thread on Pirate about it. Said it has the AMC I6 bell housing bolt pattern, as it came bolted to an AW4/30-43LE in some overseas vehicles, and can be mated to an AX15. Also, I've scene claims of making good power and MPG in the 30-35 range. I'm only in the preliminary stages of my research, but so far, it sounds promising. I only suggested Ben use it in his new found project in hopes that someone on this forum would see it and pipe up about it if they had any knowledge to share.

Welp... I just learned something new. I was going by the handful of transfer cases I've pulled from various years and the XJ's I've owned/worked on... Thanks for the clarification, Don. :thumbsup:

Long is for cable driven Short is for electronic driven

Sweet!! Throw a Mitsubishi 4M40 I4 TDI in it, AX15 and DD it. 30-35 MPG for a 30+ year old vehicle would be awesome!

For the tail/brake lights, I've had good success with these: <https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MC72Q1K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1> Run them in my Camry, too. There's a noticeable difference between the tail light and when the brake is applied, both during the day and at night. Some of the bulbs you find an Amazon and eBay are garbage and you can barely tell when the brakes are on because there's not enough change in lumens to distinguish between the two. As for the rest, go to <https://www.superbrightleds.com/> and look up the vehicle. I've bought stuff from them, too. They sell great stuff.

HO blocks are commonly swapped in to Renix era MJs and XJs. They're more easily found than Renix 4.0's and to me personally, a better choice for replacement anyway. The swap is fairly straightforward, but the TPS can be a tricky part to adapt. Sure, you could buy Hesco's aluminum spacer/adapter if you like sparing limbs or first-borns... If you're like me, cheap yet effective will always be my go-to choice. Without further ado... Parts: - Nylon spacer, 1/2" outer diameter x 1" long - Metal sleeve, 1/2" inner diameter, x 1" long - 3/16" threaded rod - Some angle iron, not too thin, not too thick - Bolts, nuts and washers (I forget the specs, but make sure they're not too big around for the lobes of the TPS) Tools: - Drill - Dremel or cutoff saw - Welder or JB weld - Tap & Dye set (optional) Step 1: Cut slit (not too wide and not too deep) in nylon spacer: Slide over flat protrusion on TB: Slide metal sleeve over: Once you determine you're satisfaction is met, put a dab of super glue in the slit, over the nylon spacer, and slide the metal sleeve over, allowing the glue to dry. Proceed to Step 2. Step 2: Make your bracket. I don't have a template or dimensions, just looks at the picture below: Step 3: Cut the excess off (amount needed to be cut off will be dependent on how you've made your bracket, but ensure there is enough sticking out to allow for the threaded rod arm) Step 4: Drill a small hole in the sleeve/spacer. I drilled mine between the 10 & 11 o'clock position: If you want, get your tap & dye set and tap the hole to accept the threaded rod: Step 5: Finalize your bracket. Weld (or JB weld) the bolt heads to the bracket, notch a handful of washers with a grinder, and cut the bolts to length after you get a loose fit. See below: Final product should look like this: Step 6: Install the whole assembly onto the intake manifold, and adjust your TPS in accordance to Pete's (aka Cruiser54) Mostly Renix Tips. Video of it in action:

I'm not sure how much longer the rod is, but it's not complicated to overcome. Washer, extra aluminum plate spacer, etc. As for my reasoning behind the prop valve innards... I didn't want to have to mess with undoing the brake line compression fittings (again) that are prone to rounding. I did the brake booster swap and the 8.8 swap two years apart. It was easier for me in a relatively tight space to just undo that front nut and replace the innards. With that said, you can use the whole ZJ prop valve.

WARNING: Picture intensive update in 3... 2... 1... Been doing little odds and ends to the MJ recently (mostly stuff that doesn't cost me money since I've been out on disability for over a month). Started off with a custom headlight harness. Chopped up the factory harness and added a couple of relays, and a fuse straight off the battery. Can post a schematic if y'all are interested. Cost me a whopping $7 for the relays, sockets and fuse on Amazon. Then I finished up with my TPS adapter... (WRITE UP FOUND <HERE>) Since I had the welder out, I decided to work on the mangled rear bumper. Had two messed up rears, so took the best of each and put them together to make a straight one. Got the exhaust welded up. Dumps right in front of the axle. And as of today, I pulled the rubber matting and started working on the floorboards... It's mostly surface rust, but a few sizeable holes. Also got the vacuum reservoir relocated to where the coolant pressure tank use to sit. Still plenty more to do. More pictures and descriptions to come for sure!

'98 XJ, technically yes, but rod length is longer so either your pedal will sit way high or you'll need to space it off of the firewall more. '99 WJ, yes. To answer your original question, here's what I did: - '95/'96 XJ dual diaphragm booster - XJ prop valve (disassemble and clean out really good) - ZJ prop valve innards (spring and inside valve from ZJ with rear discs, some had drums, so check first) - Remove load-sensing valve under bed Brakes are gold.

I'll see if I can snap some pictures to post here.

This is what I run on my XJ and soon will be implementing this on my MJ... Rampage 5"x7" H4 conversion glass housings: https://www.amazon.com/Rampage-5089927-Halogen-Conversion-Headlight/dp/B001OMPJHM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478319875&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=rampage+5x7+h4 OPT7 LED H4 Headlight bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/OPT7-Headlight-Bulbs-Clear-Arc-Beam/dp/B00VNBEJ1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478319946&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=opt7+h4+led&psc=1 Now, before everyone grills me for using an LED bulb in a halogen housing, I just want to say that a rough side-by-side comparison, the beam pattern more closely mimics that of a filament bulb. I did the upgrade harness and 80/100 watt halogens on my buddy's XJ, and the above on my XJ. The LEDs were visually similar in terms of the outward projection. I did not bother with an upgrade harness in conjunction with the LEDs because there is very little current draw in comparison to a standard halogen bulb. These things will power on at full brightness with as little as 8V DC.

Huh? I second that... Huh??

Regular CPS: http://www.morris4x4center.com/crankshaft-position-sensor-33004761.html https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-MAGNETIC-SPEED-SENSOR-33004761/dp/B008XQNGS6 <== This is the one I have. Looked 100% identical to the factory one that I took off my XJ. High altitude CPS: https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-56027280-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor/dp/B006EFUET2

Hell Creek: http://comancheclub.com/topic/28748-3-suspension-lift-kits/?do=findComment&comment=294445 All the well known companies such as Rubicon Express, Old Man Emu, Rusty's, Zone, etc. only make full leaf packs for a 4.5" lift and add-a-leafs for a 3"... If money is restricted, definitely consider a bastard pack as mentioned above.

Full leaf packs for sure. Don't screw with add-a-leafs, they're crap. And if you have the TJ coils, you don't need coil spacers if you run new springs in the back.

I would never, NEVER EVER pay that much for an "okay" MJ with that mileage, especially one from up north. If it was in pristine condtion with 200k miles less, it would be worth that, otherwise hell to the naw, to the naw, naw, naw.

Yes.

TJ 4" will give MJs and XJs 3".