onlyinajeep726

I checked it by way of driving, and all is normal lol. But no, I didn't measure resistance. I will to appease curious minds, though.

Four door. The four door XJ's utilize the same door dimensions for their front doors as the MJ.

Well, the alternator did the trick... Still don't know how or why.

Snug, no slack IIRC.

You're joking, right? lol

What I can say is that the alternator is definitely messed up. It is squealing because the back ball bearing has pretty much fallen apart and lost most of it's balls and the retaining ring. I suspect the sudden increase in torque from flooring it put a little more stress on the shaft, and exacerbated the issue. I should have a new alternator tomorrow, so I will install it and report back.

Anyone?

10W-30, as the manual calls for.

So, I've been relatively busy with work over the past few days. I've had the battery on a trickle charger for several days and the battery is fully charged. I decided to take it out on a test drive around the block. It shifts fine, just as it did before. BUT... I noticed that the volt meter in the instrument cluster is showing just over the lower red mark (10 volts, give or take). Perhaps I killed the alternator in the initial incident, didn't notice the volt meter, and the continued drive to work sucked the battery voltage down? Is that something that would cause the trans. to act like I experienced? My hypothesis is such a demand on the electrical system caused wonky shifting since the trans. requires a certain amount of voltage/current to activate the solenoids? Does that sound right? I'm still going to check the resistance/ohms of each solenoid just to be sure. Now, in addition, I'll be having the alternator tested at the local posts store.

An AW4 was never bolted behind a 5.2L V8. Besides that, you can't go from a V8 to the L6 unless you swap the wire harnesses, ECU, fuel lines, etc. etc. Not worth the hassle, even if you had a donor ZJ to pull from.

I will check that as soon as I'm able to do so. I do have a question pertaining to this, though. If #3 solenoid is bad, or otherwise acting up, would that be the cause to all of the issues that I initially, and later, listed? Or would it only pertain to the final lock up after reaching highway speeds? Negative, Pete. That was never an issue prior, nor after this unfortunate incident. It's in good working order. TC lock up was consistent around the 45-48 mph mark, dependent of course on normal, smooth acceleration.

No need to argue, guys. My mistake on the incorrect terminology (I'll edit my original inquiry to eliminate any confusion). I should have specified that after getting up to speeds of around 45-50, the RPMs normally drop slightly, and that is where the torque convertor usually locks up, but that is not present at this moment. A few additional things I'd like to specify, as well as things I want to note that I've looked at or that have been changed recently: I looked over both the 7.5 & 10 amp fuses, and both are fine. I haven't swapped out the TCM yet, but that will likely be next. I would also like to note that the TPS has recently been changed out for a brand new one. I've been rock crawling and drove it 2.5 hours home without issue, but that's not to say that it could or couldn't be an issue, in part anyway. Also, I recently upgraded to a 1990 ECU (made for a manual transmission) thanks to Cruiser54. I don't suspect that has anything to do with the problem, as I'm under the assumption that the ECU doesn't communicate with the TCM on anything before 1997, but if that is an incorrect assumption for any reason, please do enlighten me. Another area of concern is that the battery keeps dying when it's parked for a while. This was not an issue prior. I suppose it could be coincidental, but I have my doubts. Finally, to answer the suggestion of motor and trans. mounts... I'm running Brown Dog poly MMs, but the trans. is the original. No vibration issue prior to this incident, either. Also, the fluid is at the correct level, as it always is. I'm particularly anal about keeping fluids in check. Might be good to change it out, as it's not as ruby red as fresh fluid, but no burnt smell is present that I've noticed. As suggested, I will be a little softer on the accelerator from now on... After all, it's not drag car lol. That 4.6L is too tempting sometimes, though.

1988 XJ, AW4 with 221k on the clock. Got a little accelerator happy on the old girl this morning in traffic on the way to work and upon arriving to work, noticed it was slipping (seemingly) as I circled around the parking lot. Had a 12 hour shift, so Jeep sat undriven all day. Went to crank and the battery had been drained. Jump started, and put it in (D). Trans acts like the TCM isn't plugged in, slipping is the best way to describe it. If I put it in 1-2, then 3, then overdrive, I can drive it, which is what I did to get home. Noticed on said drive home, it didn't seem like the torque converter ever engaged locked up. I say that because normally there's a slight, but definitive drop in engine RPMs after getting to highway speeds once it's upshifted through all the gears, but that was not the case this time. In addition, I also noticed on the drive home that if I'm not soft on the accelerator, I feel vibration from the floor board. Where's a good place to start?

This is awesome!

Sweet, thanks!

Not sure if this has been asked on this thread yet or not, but what's going on with the front of this XJ here in the background?

What year XJ did that come out of? I assume HO era?

Yes sir. If you have any more questions about it or need help, feel free to PM me!

It's no different than swapping in a Renix block. I used the Renix computer and harness. Swap over the accessories, and sensors, and adapt the TPS. You have to use the HO power steering pump. It's not hard. This is the third Jeep I've converted.

Or buy a TPS for the automatic. Works exactly the same but way cheaper... $40 on average.

Technically yes, I do have a build thread for it, but I haven't been very good about updating it lol. :no: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48023-new-project-1988-sportruck/

You sure the pump didn't just die? Test for power at the plug under the truck. You'll need a buddy to try to crank it while you have your multimeter leads on the plug. If you see the voltage jump up to 12V, then you're getting power to the pump.

Oh crap... that's right, I already know you. I'm a bit scatter-brained the last few days lol. It's in my project truck. I haven't taken it for a test drive because I don't have working brakes on it yet. I have reversed it out of the garage and then 1st geared it back in, using the e-brake to stop lol. Seems to pull fine there. I'll update you once I get it road-worthy.

Where in NC do you live, by the way?

How do you go about flipping the TRE? Pictures?