onlyinajeep726

Check that distributor again. If that's correct, pull the timing cover and check the chain, verify it hasn't jumped a tooth or two.

It's possible, but if you've tightened the bolts and sprayed fluid on it with no difference in RPM's, it doubt that's it. Make sure you tighten all of them, the bottom ones especially.

Side of transmission: Plug is on passenger side of engine bay: This is how you temporarily bypass it: Read through this thread: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how-jump-bypass-nss-96-xj-191405/

^^^ And if that doesn't do it... You can jump "B" and "C" pins on the plug to bypass it long enough for you to start it.

NSS needs to be replaced. Shouldn't be a big deal or very expensive, never done one in a jeep but done plenty in GM and Ford applications. Usually takes less than 30 minutes and $30. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Try one on these Jeeps... Takes longer than 30 minutes and the cheapest I've ever seen for a replacement (not new) NSS was $60.

When I did my SOA rear lift, I was still able to retain factory length shocks for the rear. I mounted the shock mount tabs on the axle just a bit below center height.

Yea, it fit correctly as far as I can tell. Looked identical to what was left of the original one.

Here you go... It's the one I've bought for both my MJ's. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2417786&cc=1316023&jsn=363

I've seen it on white and light colored XJs plenty... ^^ Ignore that god-awful "bumper".

Yes it does. I was not aware of this... That explains why there have been times that that is the only way I was able to get mine started... Cool info. Something is causing it to run real rich. That's why. How's the hose going from the throttle body to MAP? It's good. I'm running 24 lb Mustang injectors on a 4.6L stroker.

Yes it does. I was not aware of this... That explains why there have been times that that is the only way I was able to get mine started... Cool info. If it is in fact an XJ rear axle that was swapped in without relocating the perches, then yes, it'll have to be addressed. If it is bolted in like below, it has not been modified and your bushings will hate you. Oh, and here's a How-To on uploading pictures on a thread on CC: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/

4.56 is ideal AFAIK. I have 4.10s on my XJ. Had 31s now 33's. A stroker helps lol.

When you say XJ axle, did the PO just slap it under the rear springs, or were the spring perches relocated to the correct spots so that the leaf spring bushings aren't in a bind? The below graphic illustrates what I mean (no to scale):

Better? Hahaha :rotf:

This doesn't address the fact that this leaves you without a proportioning valve. If for some reason you have a leak in the rear line, or the front lines, you LOSE ALL BRAKING. I personally run an XJ block with ZJ innards. Yes, they can sometimes get clogged, but mostly due to neglect. I'd rather have that potential issue than no brakes at all. Otherwise, nice write-up and pictures.

Thanks Ben!! And 4.0forlife, I may have to see what I can do about that!

So, I've been very much neglecting this build thread. I have, however, been working on the truck here and there as I can. Here's what's been going on over the last year or so... As it stands now, it has a 4.0 HO from a '98 XJ ran by the Renix ECU, an AX15, and a NP231. I ripped the old Renix engine and Pukegoat out. Engine was so gummed up with tar/oil, that I just couldn't stand it. Oil was darker than a black hole. While I had mostly everything out, I cleaned up the engine bay, fixed the sheet metal under the battery tray as it was flaking away, and then painted the whole thing. Hole under battery tray: Freshly painted engine bay: Fixed the hole: Replaced nearly all the gaskets on the engine, the freeze plug on the back of the head, and a fresh coat of paint: Engine and trans. installed: Adapted the TPS by way of custom bracket and cylinder: First time it's been out of the garage under its own power: Still have a while to go. Need to swap in the Dana 30, custom head light harness (like the Putco, but cheaper lol), and painting the whole truck.

I had a similar issue. I welded a bolt, head down to the floor.

http://www.kelleyswip.com/1994XJ.html

Oh, okay... I see. :idea: Thanks for the clarification! :thumbsup:

Forgive my ignorance, but what is a "roll pan" bumper?

That looks to be an internal slave AX15. As for fluid recommendation, use either Pennzoil SyncroMesh or RedLine MT-90. What ever you do, DO NOT USE any fluid that is GL-5. The syncro rings in the AX15 are made of brass, and the level of sulfur in GL-5 fluids will quite literally dissolve the rings over time.

Here you go... P/N: PB77 or PB77HD or 690-042. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1119184&cc=1309452&jsn=485 It's what I used on my Renix with '96 XJ AX-15.

I'll report back if problems persist. So far, it shifts fine. :crossfingers: