onlyinajeep726

Got a link to that particular "Mighty Vac" you speak of? *Edit: This one? http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Test-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463522200&sr=8-1&keywords=mighty+vac+vacuum+pump

Figured it out... TPS died. Strange since it tested alright, but unplugging it allowed it to start... Can't quite wrap my mind around that. :dunno:

:drool:

CPS is brand new and doing Cruisers method for testing it shows a 0.8 AC voltage reading while cranking, which is well above what is needed to tell the ECM to fire.

Like the title says, my MJ won't start... I JUST got plates back on it this morning and on the way home, radiator busted and overheated right as I was getting on my road. It shut off before I got to my driveway and I coasted to the parking pad. I let it cool, swapped in a new radiator, washed the engine and entire bay (since it had antifreeze all over it), started it up and let it run till operating temp. Idle RPMs kept going up, and I figured out the manifold bolts were loose, so I tightened them. TRIED to start it again after that, and nothing. Just turns over and over, but no fire. Checked CPS, TPS, MAP, coil, plugs, the harnesses, etc. The only thing I noticed is that the injector plugs weren't showing any voltage on my multimeter when I tried cranking it. Seems logical that it would pulse the injectors to give fuel when starting, but nothing showed on the MM in either DC or AC voltage mode... Could that be my issue? Did I somehow fry my ECU?

I took measurements off of a stock height/stock setup (SUA) MJ, measuring the shock length eye-to-eye at rest, on level ground. It measured between 18.5-19". AFTER I went SOA with my 8.8, I then measured from the frame side shock eye bolt, 18.5" down to the axle (again at rest, on level ground), to find where said shock mount should be placed. I did that because I wanted to retain stock length shocks.

Two words: Heck no. I paid $200 for mine with 4:10. $250 is the highest I'd ever pay for a Dana 30, regardless of what gear ratio is in it.

Thank you, Don. That's kind of what I was thinking as well. To clarify on the steering column portion, would I have to re-wire the ignition switch and multi-function stick or make a custom harness to adapt, or is it all plug and play? I haven't had a chance to do a side-by-side comparison or pull schematics.

:help:

Thanks for the info so far. Anyone have anything for the other inquiries? Mainly the fuel system, being that the rest won't matter if I can't get it to run lol.

Following... Also, started this thread. Useful information here over time, hopefully: http://comancheclub.com/topic/50289-renix-to-ho-harness-and-engine-swap/

Got a few questions on what's going to work best here... I have a complete '96 XJ (4.0L AW4) donor with brand new Jasper crate engine (less than 900 miles on it). It was in a head on collision, so the unibody is toast. Harnesses seem to be just fine, I even got it started and running to verify. I have my '86 MJ (4.0L AX15). I'm sticking with the 5-speed, so I know to bypass the NSS. So, my questions are as follows: First, fuel system. Can I run the pre-96 style fuel system in conjunction with the '96 harness and PCM without trouble. By that I mean, for those that don't know, '96 is the first year to go to the pressure regulator inside of the tank, as opposed to on the fuel rail. I have an MJ HO sender handy, so I suspect I could use that, but I want verification. Secondly, is it possible to use the GM style steering column with the ChryCo ignition system? I don't care about airbags, and besides, the steering wheel and air bag in my donor is of no worth due to the collision. Also, I want to retain my factory AMC branded Jeep keys. Thirdly, would I be able to use the older HVAC box and controls with the newer harness? The XJ's HVAC box is busted beyond repair. I want to have heat and A/C if possible. Also, to tie into that, can I use the older style A/C compressor (the one that has the bolts mount through the front, not the top)? The compressor is brand new and the freon lines look like they'll screw right on. Fourthly, being that the donor harness is from an automatic and the MJ it's going in is a 5-speed, is there concern there for issues, besides bypassing the NSS? I know cruise control won't work, but I shouldn't have an CEL's since the AW4 has it's own controller computer in '96, correct? Lastly (for now), can I swap the electronic speedometer for the cable driven one? I'd like to retain the original mileage of ~82k.

Early YJ's with the 2.5 were TBI, just like your '86 MJ.

I measured it several times at resting height, before going SOA. Then once I completed my SOA swap, I used that measurement to place the shock mount (again, done at resting height). I think it was something like 18" or 19" inches (measured from the top mounting bolt on the frame, down to the axle, of course. G M T Detect languageAfrikaansAlbanianArabicArmenianAzerbaijaniBasqueBelarusianBengaliBosnianBulgarianCatalanCebuanoChichewaChinese (Simplified)Chinese (Traditional)CroatianCzechDanishDutchEnglishEsperantoEstonianFilipinoFinnishFrenchGalicianGeorgianGermanGreekGujaratiHaitian CreoleHausaHebrewHindiHmongHungarianIcelandicIgboIndonesianIri$#!&alianJapaneseJavaneseKannadaKazakhKhmerKoreanLaoLatinLatvianLithuanianMacedonianMalagasyMalayMalayalamMalteseMaoriMarathiMongolianMyanmar (Burmese)NepaliNorwegianPersianPolishPortuguesePunjabiRomanianRussianSerbianSesothoSinhalaSlovakSlovenianSomaliSpanishSundaneseSwahiliSwedishTajikTamilTeluguThaiTurkishUkrainianUrduUzbekVietnameseWelshYiddishYorubaZulu AfrikaansAlbanianArabicArmenianAzerbaijaniBasqueBelarusianBengaliBosnianBulgarianCatalanCebuanoChichewaChinese (Simplified)Chinese (Traditional)CroatianCzechDanishDutchEnglishEsperantoEstonianFilipinoFinnishFrenchGalicianGeorgianGermanGreekGujaratiHaitian CreoleHausaHebrewHindiHmongHungarianIcelandicIgboIndonesianIri$#!&alianJapaneseJavaneseKannadaKazakhKhmerKoreanLaoLatinLatvianLithuanianMacedonianMalagasyMalayMalayalamMalteseMaoriMarathiMongolianMyanmar (Burmese)NepaliNorwegianPersianPolishPortuguesePunjabiRomanianRussianSerbianSesothoSinhalaSlovakSlovenianSomaliSpanishSundaneseSwahiliSwedishTajikTamilTeluguThaiTurkishUkrainianUrduUzbekVietnameseWelshYiddishYorubaZulu Text-to-speech function is limited to 100 characters Options : History : Help : FeedbackClose

When I did mine, I was able to retain the factory length shocks.

I measured them based off the old axle. Simply put the 8.8 on saw-bucks with the stock Explorer perches flat and level on the saw-bucks, then put my new Barnes4x4 perches on the top side, spaced them where the needed to be based on my measurements from the old axle, made sure they were perfectly parallel to the old perches, then I tacked them in place and triple checked everything. Once I confirmed my placement was dead on, I welded it inside and out. THEN, I cut the old perches off. If I were to do it again, I'd probably put a 2 or 4 degree tilt to the new perches just because after bolting in the axle, it looks like it's not perfectly pointing inline with the drive shaft, but nothing worth worrying about. I welded on the shock mounts after I swapped the axle in. Best part of doing that that way was, I got them welded in a place on the 8.8 where my factory length shocks can be reused without any additional length needed. I'm running a pretty high offset wheel already and the fronts stick out more than the rears do. I think our trucks are wider out back than they are in the front. I think the fact that the front of the MJs and XJs narrow down slightly in the front makes it looks like the tires are sticking out further. In all actuality though, the 8.8 is roughly ½" shorter on each side than a standard 35 or 44, so its subtle difference would go unnoticed to most anyone.

No, but I think it's just the angle of the picture that makes it look wider. I may put 1/2" spacers on the rear, but I don't know.

Sneak preview of the next stage of the build:

Shouldn't matter. I just looked randomly at a '96 XJ to find the one I linked.

I'm almost 95% sure this one is the correct one... You have re-use the reducer sleeve that sits inside of the bearing. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3672&cc=1180314&jsn=385&jsn=385&jsn=385 Edit: I went outside and looked at mine. The pulley I linked is only slightly smaller in terms of its outer diameter compared to the factory one, but the I.D. of the bearing looks to be correct.

DUDE!!!! This one is a NC truck originally and he was a member here! <http://comancheclub.com/topic/17566-360-fuel-injection-build/> I've actually spoken with the second owner at a CC organized Meet-N-Greet two years ago. I can't believe this truck has made it all the way to Ohio. That's freaking awesome!

Many people.... Google is a good resource. http://comancheclub.com/topic/23180-1jtmw64114ht163412/

In that case, then I would do the '96 swap. As mentioned before, everything will need to swapped over. All wire harnesses, PCM, etc. A custom wire harness will need to be made to adapt the MJ tail light/fuel pump harness to the cab harness (which isn't hard), see here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/18588-xj-dash-harness-to-rear-mj-harness-wiring-guides/

'00-'01 Cherokee has a low pinion front axle... A high pinion is more desirable, especially if you're going to lift it in the future.