onlyinajeep726

Message PFCLeist, he might still have his from where we swapped him to an HO. Message him here.

Link? *Edit: Found it, ordered it. Paid ~$145 after some built up points. <Link>

Ok, I understand what you did. Great description. :cheers: I don't know why you had 2 volts on the original connector. I will have to measure mine to see if mine does the same.

You lost me on the cutting and re-wiring part. Elaborate? Pictures are appreciated as I'm a much more visually based learner. :thumbsup:

You'll still need an HO era MJ specific fuel sending unit. Any XJ you use for the swap that is between a '91-'95, will need that sending unit. Those years (in the XJ's) still have a return fuel line on the injector rail. '96+ XJ's use a returnless system, something that was never implemented in the MJ's. As I mentioned before, I have a sending unit from a '91 that is in great shape that I may be persuaded to sell if you (or anyone) is in need.

I disagree, that's a C8.25. http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=7&idproduct=156

Unfortunately, I never made a how-to on that, but I did take lots of pictures which I can post. I have to revisit it anyway because the way I affixed the cable end to the lever ended up breaking, so right now, it's rendered useless. I also scored two functioning foot brakes at the JY, so I even thought about going back to that. Decisions, decisions... lol.

What year, engine, and is it a 5-speed or auto?

Yes, essentially. You'll have to ground one leg of the 2 prong switch and attach the other leg to the aforementioned Black/Orange wire (see sketch, below). That way, when the ball inside that 2 prong switch unites the two legs, it should provide a path to ground, thus allowing the dash light to come on. Please let me know if this works as I theorized so that I may do this to both of my Jeeps.

Okay, as I mentioned before, the plug should be there on the factory wire harness. It is a female bullet connector with a black (or dark blue, my eyes can't tell) wire with orange tracer. One thing that is interesting to note is that the first one, which is pictured from my 2WD MJ, has a single wire whereas my '88 XJ 4WD has two wires. Not sure why, or what the other wire goes to, but just be aware that your harness may look like either variety. 2WD MJ: 4WD XJ:

This is my EXACT setup as of recently. I will go measure for you and get back to you in a little while. *EDIT: I measured and it came to just shy of 50" from center of u-joint to center of u-joint. I can say that after swapping in/lifting my rear with the 8.8, my drive shaft's length did not need to be altered. It pulled out of the back of the T-case just over an 1/8th of an inch.

The plug should be there. I have a 2WD '88 MJ I'm working on now, and I've been fixing the wire harnesses from prior damage, and there was one on it. I'll go compare my '88 XJ (which is 4WD from factory) and take a picture for your reference.

The 4WD light switch on the Renix and early HO models with the vac setup, activates the dash light by grounding out when said switch has vacuum pulled on it (see first image, below). It's located on the passenger side inner fender, right by the blower motor. The later model 4WD switch is on the transfer case, bolted in the same location as the 4-port vacuum line adapter, and has a two prong plug (see second image, below). I have not found the time to do this to mine, but it theory, you should be able to ground one leg of that two prong switch on the later model T-case, and on the other leg, run it to the plug on the harness where the old vacuum activate switch plugs in to. When you place the T-case into 4WD, it should cause the two prong switch to tie to ground, and subsequently ground the dash light to enable it to turn on. Vacuum 4WD (dash light) switch: Two prong 4WD switch (found in later model T-case): Simple diagram of the vacuum Command-Trac system:

Start with the ballast resistor on the driver side inner fender, next to the air box. It's white and has two orange wires with black tracers, on either end. Jump those two wires together and see if that makes a difference. Pic for reference:

Holy thread revival, batman! This is over a year old... I forgot all about it lol.

Not to hijack this thread, but after reading all the negative reviews, I think this is what I'm going to do.

Oh... are we talking about this CAD system? http://www.rocky-road.com/cherokee-control-arm-drop.html If so, that's troubling because I wasn't too far from ordering these once I rebuild the funds after Christmas. *EDIT*: I guess this is the same people of which you speak... http://www.jeepreviews.com/where-to-buy-jeep-accessories/280/rocky-road-outfitters/ https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rocky-road-crooks.188245/ http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?492282-Rocky-Road-Outfitters-Good-Bad http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/bad-rocky-road-offroad-rro-experience-441808/

I've seen a few episodes. I always love when one of the thugs say something like, "Yo, dis mite b 1 a dos bait cars", and then proceeds to steal it anyway. Morons lol.

Any 4.0 from '87-'99 can be made to work relatively easily.

You'll still need a HO fuel sender. The XJ's are not compatible with MJ's tank unless you can modify it. Otherwise, it should be a straightforward swap.

I have one, hehe. :brows:

This would be a much easier swap, for sure.

Diaphragm in the booster is likely going bad. If you determine this is in fact the case, it would be a good time to upgrade to the '95/'96 XJ dual-diaphragm booster and master cylinder. 100% better braking power, a worthy upgrade.

Mr. Renix vs. Mr. HO.... who will win? *ding, ding, ding!* FIGHT!

Later model Dodge Dakota plastic tanks have been modded to fit. Not sure what is necessary to make it work. I'm sure others will chime in.