onlyinajeep726

Subscribed!

Two things: 1.) Does anyone happen to know the part number or where to get a 23.5 gallon tank for my '86? and 2.) Does anyone happen to have a side-by-side picture of a 16 gallon tank and 23.5 gallon tank?

Did I just die and go to heaven? The only thing better would be a Grand Cherokee SRT with this Demon in it!

Renault is French... hahaha

The part number for the switch is: 83502719 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=942301&cc=1179996&jsn=403

I recently painted this for my friend. We're dropping it in his XJ pretty soon. Thought I'd share it here with you fine folks lol.

No, I actually don't have a write-up on it. However, I did watch a video from NickInTimeFilms, seen here at the 7:48 mark. https://youtu.be/mkrAG7gakPg?t=468 I also bought a valve spring compressor tool, seen in the above video. Coincidentally, it's the same shown in the Haynes Repair manual that I also referenced. This is it here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N322TG/ Lastly, the valve stem part numbers are as follows: Mahle/Victor Reinz B45798 (INTAKE valves) & Mahle/Victor Reinz B45799 (EXHAUST valves). I'd like to note one thing. If you don't want to remove the head, you don't have to. They make a hose adapter that you can screw into the spark plug hole that pressurizes the cylinder with an air compressor. It prevents the valves from dropping down into your cylinder. I would also suggest manually turning the crank to where the cylinder you're working on is at TDC. That should be double insurance. Or, you could likely do it that way without the use of air pressure. That air hose adapter is seen here: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-19700-Valve-Holder/dp/B000COC7ZU

^^ This.

I ran mine directly to one of the parking lamp wires under the driver's side kick panel, that goes to the rear tail lights. It the front and rear light up when power is applied from the alarm system.

It's been flushed numerous times at this point. Problem has been resolved, though. It was a bad, new sending unit. I replaced it with another, different brand and viola... Reads directly on 210. It would hold steady no matter engine RPMs or under load. The part number and brand of sensor that ended up being faulty was P/N: TU236 by Airtex/Wells. The one that replaced it, that resolved my issue, was P/N: WT430 by BWD. I thought about that as a possibility, too. Cross referenced the P/N and it all came back to being confirmed for the gauge style cluster. Fortunately, it was replaced with a functioning one this evening and as a result, I'm quite the happy camper.

***ISSUE RESOLVED!!!*** First off, let me say this is for a '95 XJ, so if the Comanche Gods (admins) wish to move this thread over to another sub-forum, feel free. Okay, secondly, this may be a bit of a long post, but please bare with me as I try to explain all that's been done thus far in an attempt to rectify this issue... About a month ago, I picked up another cheap-Jeep. '95 XJ Sport for $300 in need of some strong TLC. PO sold it because it was overheating, and suspected the head gasket. He had owned it/been driving it for just shy of three years, which was verified after looking over the title. First thing I did was check the oil, the radiator (which was empty except for a thick layer of rusty paste), and I peered down into the valve cover through the oil cap. Just a very basic diagnosis. I agreed to buy it, and my buddy and I dragged it home. I started by filling up the coolant system with water. Started it and let it idle, and it went into the red-zone, so I shut it off. I noticed it was steaming from the back of the head. Okay, PO was right ...so I thought. I removed the head, inspected the gasket (which had been replaced before at some point, not by the PO, so he claimed), and the gasket didn't show any signs of breakage or cause for concern. I next cleaned up the head which was dirty, both inside and out. Found a small pin hole in the freeze plug that I concluded was the cause of the leak. No problem, I thought. Flushed the head with a garden hose and some strong cleaning chemicals, popped a new freeze plug in and painted it for my own pleasure. While I had the head off, I replaced all the valve stem seals and cleaned up all six intake valves as they were covered in a thick layer of carbon and burnt on oil. Also, while the head was off, I removed the freeze plugs in the side of the block, flushed each coolant galley/port, and flushed through the side of the block, before replacing those five freeze plugs with new ones. New M.L.S. Mahle/Victor Reinz head gasket, sprayed with Permatex Hi-temp Copper gasket spray, new head bolts, torqued down using the 3-step sequence specified by my Haynes repair manual, and I reassembled the manifolds, etc. In addition to those new parts/gaskets, I've installed a new "high-flow" 195°F thermostat, water pump, new radiator (because the old one was assumed clogged or partially clogged from rust-paste), and new temperature sensor for the gauge (since I broke the original one removing the head... D'oh!). Currently, I have the coolant system filled with Prestone coolant system flush and distilled water. This is actually the second time it's been filled with that because the first time I filled it, I ran in and drained it to do an initial flush. It was quite dirty to say the least. Upon looking at the water/flush mixture, I see no signs of engine oil. It's just brown from what I assume is more rust that I couldn't get out via my garden hose flush. Anyway, as it stands, it still overheats (or at least the gauge indicates it does). I have started it and let it idle for 20-30 minutes at a time once engine temp stabilizes, about 4-5 times now. In each case, NOTHING leaks, no boiling over or steam, no white smoke from the tailpipe, no erratic running, misfire, or engine stumbling. It idles perfect, revs fine, and shows no signs of ill fortune. I even rented a coolant system pressure tester from AutoZone, pumped it up to 17-18 psi and left if pressurized over night, and the next morning it may have lost a half to one psi. In addition, the electric fan is never triggered to come on, but if you turn the A/C on, it comes on like it's supposed to. Also, out of curiosity to see if the factory temperature gauge is off, I swapped in another instrument cluster and the same thing happens. I'd like to note, that in each time I've had it running for those 20 minutes or so, the factory gauge needle rests as the bottom end of the red-zone. Oil pressure, if it matters in this case is damn near perfect at 40 psi at idle. One thing I want to do is to check the engine, head, and coolant hoses with an infrared 'point-&-shoot' style temperature gauge to see what it's truly running at, but I don't have access to one at the moment. So, what, if anything, am I missing? Any suggestions or thoughts? I know my way pretty well around these 4.0s, but this has me stumped and highly frustrated.

None of these new Jeeps will make it to 200,000+ miles. At the very least, not reliably. They're no 4.0.

It's lined up correctly, believe it or not. I've done two of these swaps, and it looked wrong initially to me as well. Reaching the back two bolts for the shift tower is a little less than desirable, but as far as the shifter itself goes, it will not hit the edge of the opening and will line up fine with the console.

I put teflon tape on mine, which probably isn't needed. The threads will cut through when you screw it in, and will make plenty of contact with the head for conductivity.

I have a tilt column from an automatic '90 XJ in my '86 5-speed. Any GM style/Saginaw column from an MJ, XJ, and various GM vehicles will work. The wiring may or may not need modification, to that I can not speak towards as I did a complete wire harness and 4.0 swap on my '86. I zip tied the lock cable the prevents the key from being removed if it's not in "park" on the automatic shift lever, as it's obviously not there lol.

Fortunately, there aren't any laws in NC in regards to that. Furthermore, most jurisdictions wouldn't enforce them anyway lol. http://www.liftlaws.com/north_carolina_lift_laws.htm

Thanks Pete!! I have seen these, but couldn't seem to find them again. I guess I'll need to contact mnkyboy about how he fabbed up his own. I'm sure I can just figure it out, but I was hoping someone has the dimensions right off hand. Thanks again!

:thumbsup: :cheers:

Yes. I don't need pictures of the drop brackets though, I just want some pictures of those reinforcements.

Year? Motor?

To whomever currently has, or may have had RRO CAD brackets with the reinforcement pieces, I would like pictures from multiple angles detailing what they looks like. I want to built my own set, but I haven't been able to find detailed pictures on their site or on Google. These are what I'm talking about, in the yellow circle: Any help or photos are greatly appreciated!

It's a vacuum issue... Check for air flow through the defrost vents when you next climb a hill.

I'm pretty sure the MJ only got the D44 all the way to the end, so no MJ 8.25s. Yes, you're correct... As you can see, this was nearly four years ago when I was fairly new to MJs and was basing my "facts" from stuff I had seen in junkyards and other places. I've learned a great deal about them since then, and know now that 8.25s were never standard in an MJ. :thumbsup:

Mayyyybeee... . :MJ 1: .