gogmorgo

I mean a 4x8 sheet doesn't exactly fit in the 7' longbed either. It just doesn't hang out the back as far.

I wouldn't bother converting your cooling system unless there's something wrong with it. The closed system you have is less tolerant of leaks than the newer open system, and can be more problematic to burp all the air out of the system, but if there's no issues there isn't much sense in fixing what isn't broke. Most vehicles use a closed cooling system anymore because they're slightly more effective with the larger quantity of coolant in the system. Multi-filament bulbs coming on strangely often means the ground is bad so the circuit then seeks a ground via the other filament's circuit. It's also not unheard of to have a single-filament bulb mistakenly shoved into a dual-filament socket which can cause similar issues. If you're pulling bulbs to check, consult this thread if you're pulling bulbs out to make sure you've got the correct bulb in the socket.

I kinda prefer the ratio of the long bed. It helps balance out the long hood, imo, although after having a shortbed as well for a while I'm getting more used to that look. My shortbed is also a bumper delete truck, and my longbed has over 300,000 miles and the rear springs are badly sagged, so the difference in rear overhang is even more exaggerated. But the way the trucks are optioned means the driving experience is so different between the two that the difference in wheelbase is not something you'd necessarily even notice while driving. The shortbed feels tighter and quicker to turn but I suspect that has more to do with it weighing 20% less (2.5/ax5/2wd vs the 4.0 auto 4x4 longbed) than anything else.

Did they mention what electrical things had been tampered with? I'm kinda wondering if they didn't somehow take power from the headlight circuit to jump to the ignition and whatever they did there caused an issue. It's definitely the wrong way to hotwire if that's the case, but there's no guarantee the thieves knew what they were doing, and the fact you got the truck back relatively intact suggests they weren't in it to make money off the truck or out for a joyride which would make me think it's not something they do often, i.e. not the most competent thieves. The 7.5 amp gauges fuse also supplies ignition power to the headlamp delay module if you've got it, which theoretically could be causing some kind of issue, but I don't really see it completely disabling the headlights, or pulling power to other circuits. The headlight switch only switches the ground side of the interior light circuit. The interior lights coming on when you turn it only means the dome circuit is getting power. This is good because it means that there's at least some current going through fuse link J. But it doesn't tell us if there's power to the headlight switch. It also adds some element of confusion though in that the power feed through the fuse panel for the Dome circuit is also what feeds the HZ/stop and park fuses, and the headlamp circuit is fed power from a splice point in that same circuit prior to the fuse panel. The Inst lmp fuse gets power from the headlight switch so I'm betting once you resolve the headlamp power issue the instrument lamps will be resolved as well. I can't remember off the top of my head where the circuit breaker for the headlights is, but it would be worth checking if that had power. Then I'd be taking a closer look at the fuse panel. I've never had it happen to me, but I've been warned against using too much dielectric grease on a connector such as the one for the headlight switch, because it can interfere with the connection. I'm just looking at the '88 wiring manual in the DIY master thread at this point.

Is it just an inspection facility or do they also repair? If it's a regular shop and they don't believe you that it doesn't have any clutch or neutral lockouts, tell them to try diagnosing the issue. I don't see a clutch switch in the parts manuals at XJJeeps.com until '97 on a gas engine, although the 2.1 diesel did come with apparently, but even then it looks like they only used it for the cruise control. I've only dropped my manual ZJ off at a glass shop a couple times otherwise I do my own work, but both times the kid who went out to bring it into the shop clearly without realizing it was a manual hit the key while it was sitting in gear. It's honestly a little entertaining watching it lurch forward and the kid's eyes go wide. It's not great for the starter, but it's generally not a long enough duration to really cook anything in it, and I do it to myself on occasion too. Not so entertaining however is watching the kid stall it twice and then roast the clutch off moving it out of the parking spot and into the shop.

DED was one of the only shows on MT that I wanted to watch. Roadkill was alright but their dumbing down of things to "what the fans wanted" made it pretty repetitive... I suppose that sells shows, but DED's approach of a fairly new crazy idea for every show and just going out and making it happen with the only goal of having fun was awesome. I'll miss it.

I repaired a socket at work the other day.

Pretty sure my own square tube rocker project got interrupted back in 2019, so...

I've done this while bench bleeding the clutch. Make sure everything is nice and clean and push it back together. The only thing keeping it in place is the pressure from the clutch fork, and the plastic strap while it's not installed.

Drove to Toronto week before last, prices ranged from $1.50 to $1.90. Wild variations with little to no semblance of an explanation, gas stations right next to each other having 10¢ differences in more than a few places. Total cost of the trip from the continental divide in a fully loaded Honda Fit was $302... Really makes me question what I'm doing with a fleet of 30-year-old Jeeps.

X2 on a bad booster. As far as upgrades go, I’ve had no complaints about stock brakes as long as they’re maintained and working correctly. All an upgraded booster does is push the pedal harder, it doesn’t really improve braking performance all that much. The valve/fitting just pushes into a rubber grommet. Pull harder and it *should* pop out. Careful putting it back in that you don’t push the grommet into the booster.

I would avoid stop leak products. They do one of two things, swell seals or plug gaps. Working seals and oil passages don’t need those things.

There are stereotypes about Saskatchewan…

Is there anything preventing you from putting your own or someone else’s name where it was signed and dated but left blank, and “buying” it from them? Obviously that’s legally questionable, but so long as the vehicle hasn’t been reported stolen or anything like that (Carfax or a state database will help you out here) then it’s very unlikely the person working the DMV will do much more than raise an eyebrow at different inks or something. The whole concept of a title document seems strange and archaic to me. My current jurisdiction only requires a bill of sale to register a vehicle. They search the vin in the provincial database and if it comes up clear then you’re good. If it’s not in the database (i.e. it came from somewhere else) you need to get it inspected first and they’ll check national databases, but if it comes up clear then no one will question your documents. There’s no actual paper ownership document other than the bill of sale, which honestly can be written on just about anything as long as it includes the VIN, price, and who you bought it from.

Primary argument for diesel oils is they contain higher ZDDP levels (i.e. zinc), similar to what oil formulations from the early ‘90’s contained. Primary argument against diesel oil is the ZDDP content was found to shorten the life of a catalytic converter, hence modern gasoline oils having lower levels. But yes, diesel oils also have higher detergent levels which will keep the inside of the engine cleaner. My work fleet runs 5w40 diesel oil in everything, regardless of manufacturer ratings, and the only engine we’ve lost prematurely was one that the guy driving would refuse to give up the truck during the day to have the oil changed so it was regularly seeing double the recommended interval. And it was still squeaky clean inside when we pulled the pan, it just wiped out all the main and rod bearings. The other typical recommendation from the industry is to pick one oil and stick with it instead of changing oils all the time on the grounds that the additive packages between differing oils might not get along super nicely.

Do you not just plug in the harness for the non-cad tcase up at the firewall? Pretty sure that’s all I did when I went to an NP242, but it was a while ago. I just wasn’t sure if you could just just pull the switch out of a non-cad np231 and direct swap it for the vacuum cluster thing in the older 231.

Is that just swapping in the switch from a non-cad transfer case? I’ve always assumed this could be done, but never tried it myself.

On almost any older vehicle I’ve been in the wipers struggle pretty hard on a dry windshield, but pick up pretty good with a little moisture on the glass. Checking for resistance in the wires likely won’t get you anywhere. You’d be looking for voltage drop under load. This would indicate one of two things, either there’s significant resistance somewhere, or else the motor is working real hard to overcome resistance in the linkage. A brushed motor that doesn’t see much use also runs the risk of corrosion or dust accumulating on the commutator and not working so hot.

Penetrating oil in the cylinder to free up the pins? Make sure there isn’t something jammed in there? If you’re missing the key, try one for another Jeep of a similar age… all of my Jeep keys will work in all of my Jeeps. Because it’s an auto, there a chance the interlock cable is causing issues. Messing around with the shifter a little bit, pushing it all the way up to park, stands a slim chance of doing something.

Rounding. 39/11=3.5454 repeating. Some will correctly round up to 3.55, others have convinced themselves that because there’s a 4 following the 5, it should be rounded down to 3.54. Yes it’s true that some gear sets are 46/13 = 3.5384 which will always round up to 3.54. However the difference is negligible. It’s common for a vehicle to have a 3.55 gear set in one axle and a 3.54 in the other, differences in tire wear, pressure, loading, etc., will account for bigger differences in wheel speed. If youre going to be pedantic about it, at least be correct. The decimal point is critical and necessary. 3.55:1 is a very different ratio from 355:1. 355:1 is so low as to be useless in a Jeep axle. The gear teeth would have to be so small to fit them all on there within the confines of a passenger vehicle axle housing that there wouldn’t be much strength at all.

I’ve seen silicone used for that, seems to work sorta okay. If I were doing it myself I’d probably just snip the wire more or less in the middle to slide heat shrink over and either solder it back together or crimp in an uninsulated butt splice splice and fill that with solder, then slide down the heat shrink and shrink it up.

X2 on cruiser54.com When it’s doing it and you put the clutch in, does the engine go back to a steady idle or does it jump around? I’d be less inclined to think it’s a trans/clutch issue and more so that the engine is cutting out, and the clunk when putting the clutch in is unrelated. My ZJ intermittently does something similar, but I can’t get it to do it when I’ve got the scan tool on it. But it’s definitely engine related, because when it’s doing it the idle speed is all over the place. I’ll change a couple parts for an unrelated reason and it might quit doing it for months, then it slowly comes back, gets more frequent. The only thing I’ve found is the fuel pressure dips and spikes while it’s doing it, but I think that’s more in relation to a sudden change in rpm and subsequent change in how many times the injectors fire before the regulator reacts to the rpm change.

Would lack of vacuum trigger the 4x4 light? I would expect it to be the opposite, no vacuum being no 4x4 light. But I could be wrong. The other likely scenario is the wire going to it is rubbed through and contacting ground.

Good for getting in your face tan.