gogmorgo

💩 I seriously hate when websites do that. Honestly it’s false advertising, lying about your ability to procure something.

All I did was google the part number, but here's some results off the first page that still show stock. https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/bosch/69302/ https://www.vividracing.com/bosch-electric-fuel-pump-p-154553698.html https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/electric-fuel-pump-69302-vm-auto Whether they actually have stock or not I couldn't tell you, and I've never actually dealt with any of them.

I still see a bunch of online retailers claiming to have them in stock. No word yet on an HO sending from MTS yet I guess? There were always other options that could be made to work, the Bosch one just happened to be better than most. And in most cases the only concern was getting it to fit in the sending unit. I might honestly just take the whole sending unit into the parts store and try to test fit whatever pump they happen to have on hand.

15.7s @ 74? That’s the best I was able to pull in my 4.0/ax15 ZJ, although I wasn’t using an official timing system, just a phone app. Roughly 11s in the 1/8th at 60mph, based on the 0-60 time.

13.4 @ 85mph in the quarter, 8.5 @50 in the 8th.

It's definitely been making me think twice about never being able to afford it. It's surprising considering what used car prices are right now, but I guess the auction isn't over yet.

Yeah we all read the posts. Pull the front shaft, put it in 4x4, drive. If it still makes the noise, now you know that it’s transfer case, and not front axle/driveshaft. But before you pull the shaft, check to see if there’s any wiggle in the double cardon joint.

The sender is pipe thread, it seals because it’s tapered. I would just try snugging it up before putting anything on the threads. The threads are also the ground for the sender, so you don’t want to block the path to ground by putting something on the threads if you don’t need to.

The bench in my shortbed was the same when I first got it. I moved it back by sitting in the passenger seat, reaching down and pulling on the cable, and got a roommate to sit in the driver’s seat, pull the handle, and help push. Make sure there isn’t anything under the seat blocking the rails.

Check the double cardan for movement. It should be nice and tight, as in when it’s installed you shouldn’t be able to push it up and down. There’s a spherical and needle bearing between the two joints that can go bad and cause a heck of a vibration in 2wd and in my case also a clunk in 4x4. I’m guessing you didn’t try driving it without the front shaft to see if anything changed?

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1988-jeep-comanche-11/?fbclid=IwAR3Lf3-wQRpYBATlU0Hey-sR1hnpP9R5jl-rjt8QI71geAKFE3nNCNm_lM8 TONS of pictures. This ad would be an excellent resource for anyone wanting to make a replica.

With my shortbed on the two-post at work I usually end up under the lower control arm brackets and sitting on the leaf spring wrap. Something about that lift though, I think it’s intended to really only go under the pinch welds and it gets awkward to use when you have to reach further under than the rocker panels on anything much smaller than a half-ton. As with anything, give it a good shake once you’ve got tires in the air to make sure it’s safe to work under. Also watch you don’t somehow invert and overcentre the load-sending brake valve linkage. In my experience it’s not possible to make that happen just by lifting and setting down because there isn’t enough suspension travel in stock form, but some well-respected people here have indicated it’s a thing, and they definitely do sometimes end up overcentred somehow. If it flips you basically end up with no rear brakes, so keep an eye on it.

Usually in drag racing you don't really want to go softer in the rear. Less spring rate in the back means you expend more of your torque just compressing the suspension which will hurt your launch.

I was looking at doing something similar a couple months back, and decided the costs were prohibitive. It's easy enough to find a container for sale, the internet's full of them, just watch out for scams. Then you've got to get it moved to where it's going. In my case the moving costs were right around 1/4 the purchase cost. One of my MJs is currently sitting in an RV storage lot where it can sit for over ten years before it'll cost me more than buying a shipping container. Sure, it's sitting outside uncovered, but it's already lived outside its whole life.

Found this electrical box under the hood of a '97 Dodge on FB Marketplace. I've asked the seller what it's for, have to see if he gets back to me. My best guess is a battery disconnect?

Tow rating in foreign markets on the KJ is in fact something dumb like 7000lbs, but most of those jurisdictions have significantly lower speed limits for trailers, meaning you can get away with much lower tongue weights. But if your trailer isn’t capable of stopping itself there really is no safe way to move more than your GVWR whether that weight is on your vehicle or on the trailer, and in most jurisdictions it isn’t legal either, and while the chances of getting caught are slim, the penalties for going overweight are pretty steep because they’re set up as a deterrent for commercial carriers. That’s not to say I haven’t done it either. I generally will mislead uhaul because I’d rather have the surge brakes on the trailer and deal with the extra weight. The dollies don’t have brakes at all, which is straight up illegal anywhere I’ve ever driven. I’m still not sure how they get away with it. But it’s worth mentioning they really don’t care what your tow rating is for vehicle moving. They’ve got a database of vehicle curb weights, and if your tow vehicle’s weight in their database comes in at less than 80% of the towed vehicle+trailer/dolly, they won’t let you do it. So if your tow vehicle only weighs 4000lbs, they’ll only let you pull 4800lbs even though a lot of trucks or SUVS in that range are good for 6000+, and with a 2200lb trailer weight deducted, that’s a pretty small car at under 2600lbs. Again I’m not saying you should defraud UHaul either. Even though the chance of negative consequences may be low, the cost of having a problem while you’re doing it if anything were to happen is going to exceed the cost of the equipment to do it properly. When you’re on a public road you don’t know what other people are going to do. If someone blows a stop sign and you hit them, it won’t matter in the eyes of the law or an insurance company who was really at fault or if you would or wouldn’t have been able to avoid it regardless of what you’re hauling, if it’s found on that you were exceeding your tow rating, it will be your fault because you were too heavy to stop on time, and you’ll be entirely to blame for anything and everything that happens. And depending on what happens, that could have you up on criminal charges on top of losing insurance coverage. Really not worth the risk, even if you think your vehicle can do it.

I cooked a 4.0 so hot the temp sensor went out of range and tripped the check engine light, repeatedly, over the course of a day, driving around with no coolant. I wouldn’t write off the engine just yet, but a compression test is definitely a good idea. But like Pete says, the engine dying within a few seconds is how a ballast resistor circuit failure goes. That doesn’t necessarily explain the fuel smell, or wandering idle, just cutting out after a few seconds. Best way to check this is simply connect the wires from either side of the resistor. I would double check the intake/exhaust manifold bolts aren’t loose. Rapid and extreme heat cycling can do that to them. The smoke you saw may have been an exhaust leak. If the bolts are loose, you’ll want to change the gasket. A bad enough exhaust leak will screw with O2 sensor readings, and the vacuum leak from the intake will screw with idle speeds.

You’re thinking of the same KJ Liberty we all are, right? I don’t see anyone else quoting curb weights over 4400lbs. And I’ll agree that’s heavier than they look, but that body is pretty stout as a result. I would drop the driveshaft with a dolly and anything that’s not fwd. 2wd manual you might get away with in neutral on a run that long, but for how little work it is to pull the shaft, it’s not worth the risk.

Well it's not exactly a road trip, but earlier this week I did a bit of a dumb that could have ended a LOT worse than it did. Somehow my battery was dead when I got in the MJ to drive to work on Monday, so I hopped into the ZJ and drove that. Odd, because from what I could tell there was nothing left on, but whatever. When I got home from work instead of pulling the battery and charging it, I decided to boost it and go for a drive. Took the scenic route south, up towards the continental divide. Not much traffic, especially this time of year and late in the day, roughly 60 miles to the top of the pass, and I was just going to turn around and come back, so I didn't even have a jacket with me. No cell service either. It wasn't warm out either, with light drizzle that switched to snowflakes at altitude. Roughly 50 miles in, coming up to a long steep uphill section, I notice the oil pressure gauge is dropping out and bouncing back. I don't really think too much of this because I've been through a few used sending units, exhausting the ones in my hoard before buying new. But then going up the hill, I start hearing some noises. So I pull off, and down at idle it's doing the death rattle. I shut it off, check the oil and sure enough there's nothing on the dipstick. I moved earlier this month, and part of moving the garage was consolidating or getting rid of all the partial bottles of fluids I've got kicking around, and I grabbed stuff out of the vehicles at the same time, and guess who never put anything back into the daily driver. I did have a can of Seafoam I'd picked up for another project so I put the whole can in, figuring it had to be better than air, and I turned around and started heading back. Fortunately it's mostly downhill and I was able to coast with the engine off for quite a bit of the drive back, keeping an eye on the pressure gauge when I did need the engine. I made it back home, and put another 2.5L of oil into it. Fortunately this engine is already a write off due to a crack in the block so I don't feel too bad about it, and I already had a replacement lined up for it. I'm just kicking myself for having let the oil level drop so far. And for having been so wildly unprepared.

For a mnemonic tool to tell them apart, remember the master commands the slave, and the slave follows the master. First thing I would do is check fluid level, then I would chock the wheels and crawl underneath and pop the slave cylinder off and make sure everything looks normal down there. If the fluid level is down, either it’s because there’s a leak or else it wasn’t correctly bled at install and there just isn’t enough fluid in the system. It’s easy enough to bleed an external slave. Just pull the slave cylinder off, point the line as straight up off the slave as you can and push the piston in, give it a jiggle so the air bubbles work their way up the line to the master, then carefully pull the piston out and pump it again the same way a few times. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master. Some slaves don’t have a stop to prevent the piston from coming all the way out so watch for that. I don’t know what the advance adapters external slave kit is like. IF it’s just a reproduction of the factory setup for the later XJ, all you’d need is a master cylinder for a ‘95, grab it from any parts store if that ends up being the issue. But best to double check what’s in the kit. LUK stuff is pretty good so it’s unusual it would fail so quickly, but you should be able to cross reference the part number on it. If you do have lines apart to change components, it’ll need bled as per the above procedure.

Did they send pictures of the break? I’d be inclined to think overtorquing fasteners is the most common form of break. Half of the interior plastics I’ve dealt with broken off tabs and most of them sit more or less okay in their spot. I think some of the larger online retailers have negatively impacted the market with expectations of getting a refund or sending a new one without good cause. I’m also not of a mind the customer is always right, and will fully admit to it as a customer. I’d say case by case is probably the best if you can manage that. If you are noticing more and very specific failures, it might be an indication the design needs some reworking.

Having just done a pile of towing with my ZJ, including a 4.0/4x4 longbed MJ on a uhaul trailer without functioning brakes, my MPGs were nearly cut in half. I wouldn’t be as concerned about the cost of fuel into it just to have a bit more horsepower and stopping power. Stopping that much unbraked trailer was sketchy. The Suburban will use less fuel than a uhaul truck, plus you’re likely not paying by the mile for it either.

The 3.7 doesn’t necessarily have the greatest reputation for reliability. If don’t want to spend money and you already have the complete drivetrain and everything to make it run I have a hard time imagining it would take much more than fabbing up mounts and getting the correct length driveshafts built, figuring out an instrument cluster and the fuel system. That definitely wouldn’t be my first choice of power train, and there are some that are very affordable and easily adaptable (with off the shelf kits) but if you really want to do it, it’s your truck, and I’m sure you can make it happen. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯