gogmorgo

And here's a wiring diagram that I had to create to make sense of the above write-up. If you're not looking to upgrade your headlight bulbs much at all, the wire sizes he uses are way overkill. I'm pretty sure the commercial harness are only 14awg (maybe 16) instead of 10. I used 10 myself because I was planning on upgrading my headlights, but after putting in the harness and actually getting 12V to them, I've never felt the need for anything better than the factory lights. At least not on public roads.

The difference between highway and mixed driving is usually pretty noticeable for me. It's a difference between 18 mpg cruising at 75mph or so and 13 or so city only, so when I was living just outside the city with almost an even split, I was getting 15-16 mpg. This also rapidly deteriorates if we get snow, cause I'll spend a goodly amount of time sideways in 4x4 (totally by accident B) ) which generally leads to single digits. Winter driving also tends to bring it down a bit as well between 4x4 use and leaving it idling longer.

The other advantage to putting the tranny lines through the radiator is that when it's cold out it helps warm up the ATF to a more useful temperature. On cold starts (like parked overnight around -30°F) using the block heater (vs having it plugged into a tripped breaker :fs2: ) also makes a noticeable difference in how the trans grabs gears right off the bat, just from that little bit of extra heat in the coolant.

Never seen it on a registration, but I have on lots of classified listings. My guess has always been someone not so bright put two M's in the word, and it autocompletes but they can't make it spell "Commanche" so they give up and just go with Commander.

Or was is this one? meKColX.mp4

Basically any part where there's something that slides or pivots. I'll add driveshaft slip joints to Pete's list.

Are you still looking? I don't thik this is what you need, but I guess I bumped your thread anyhow... http://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/winnipeg/new-jeep-cherokee-xj-parts/1218544265?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Freezing rain is far and away the worst weather for driving. Even I stay off the roads. And if it's bad enough the ice buildup brings down trees, power lines... You name it. Not great. I feel for you guys. It helps when you live on a... well around here they call it a mountain, but it's really just a bunch of big hills. But it makes a difference.

A lot of people think the MJ/XJ 2.5L is a GM engine, possibly because of the 2.8, possibly also because AMC did very briefly use Pontiac's Iron Duke 2.5L. But it's not the case. The Jeep 2.5L is an AMC engine. It was also used in later years with the Dakota I believe, along with the XJ. Later ones may have better valve covers and gaskets, but I can't speak to compatibility.

Yup. Completely different sized spring. I don't know what all had happened before I got in there, (no evidence to suggest it wasn't the original column or wheel) but there was no way in hell I was getting the lock plate back on after I put in the cancelling cam which was missing and why my horn didn't work. The horn relay was also toast, so I suspect someone was inside the column at one point and grabbed the wrong spring when putting it back together, couldn't make it work, so decided they didn't need the cancelling cam anyway and tossed it. The spring that was in there completely compressed was the same length as the junkyard XJ's was at rest. No idea where the other spring came from though, but it obviously wasn't correct.

Probably only every other time for me. I finally stopped jumping and smashing my head into the door frame when it happens though...

Snow you say? It's okay. The first couple snowfalls of the year here usually mean a bit of chaos too until everyone calms down and figures things out. Doesn't mean we still don't laugh our asses off when Vancouver (a city that very recently hosted the Winter Olympics I'll remind you) gets completely shut down by a couple inches. If you're not prepared it's not always easy to deal with, and even we understand that. But worse is the ones who don't realize they aren't prepared or don't think they need to be and cause chaos by their stupidity. Be smart, help each other out where you can, make sure you've got warmth, food, and water, and if you're able to get outside and enjoy the winter weather by all means go for it! Winter's probably my favourite season.

How often have you flipped the seat forward into the horn button? Lol. That's how I know it's always hot.

Unfortunately I've had to postpone the run until next Friday. I'm 99% positive they'll have what's needed but they're 60 miles away and only open for bankers hours so Friday's the only day I can get down there. Just to confirm, you're only looking for the stub shaft and hub, not anything else? I'd probably end up pulling those two together without undoing the nut. I'll grab the hub bolts as well. I could include the ujoint and the rest of the shaft too (assuming I can find them) or something else as well if there's anything else you need. Also I'll point out that if you need them URGENTLY you might want to look elsewhere. It'll likely take a week or so to get them sent down after they're pulled.

My truck has power to the horn circuit even when it's off. Is this a Renix vs HO thing or does one of us have a wiring issue?

If it goes according to plan, I'll be hitting a wrecking yard tomorrow... With two feet of snow at -20°F. Lol. I might be able to pull one for you, but shipping down from the middle of Canada won't be cheap.

Find an image host other than photobucket? I've had nothing but trouble with it and don't use it. I'm a fan of imgur.com. I've occasionally used Facebook as well but they have a tendency to change image URL's without warning. If I've been posting stuff both here and somewhere else that does host images, often I'll post there first and borrow the images to over here.

In fairness to the AMC engineers, the Mopar team came in after several years of long-term real-world testing. AMC's engineering department was actually pretty good in comparison to most out there, they were just operating within a failing company that had to cut corners everywhere. There are a bunch of people from within the two units who will say that if you walked into engineering after the ChryCo takeover, you might have thought the opposite had happened... very rarely the case in a buyout. Now don't think I'm defending Renix here. It's not bad, but it's also a very early implementation of MPFI, and first steps are always pretty wobbly. It still beats the pants off of computer-controlled carbs.

Also make sure you've got the correct bulbs in the sockets. They should be dual-filament bulbs. There's a list of the proper bulbs in the DIY section.

If the fusible link is burnt and I'm right that it also gives power to the fuel pump relay, and the fuel pump relay is still somehow attached to your fuel pump, you could have "fixed" the problem by back feeding power through from the ECU to the fuel pump, which probably isn't great for the ecu. If the ecu is even still doing something...

Next time the heater valve goes wrong, just pull it out and bypass it. You don't need it, and obstructing flow through the heater core just allows crud to accumulate and block it.

And whatever the difference is, it would still be included in the height of the leaf spring pack in the lift height equation.

Yeah. The "frame" isn't really a separate unit. It's just stamped sheet metal spot welded to the body as reinforcement. I doubt there's anyone still producing the section. Although I can buy them online for my Lada so you never know. But as such it would be pretty thin even before the rust. A good body or fab shop should be able to make a new piece based on the old one, but it'll be a lot of work to drill out all the spot welds and then redo it all. Frame stiffeners are metal plates cut and/or formed to weld onto the outside of the frame. Since they're readily available from the aftermarket as a common upgrade for more hard-core wheelers and only require prepping the surface they're welded to, it's almost definitely more cost-effective to use them.

Your best bet is probably to find a complete driveshaft from a later 4x4 XJ with the sealed output and take it and the 2wd shaft to a driveshaft shop and have the shop choose whether they want to lengthen the XJ shaft or shorten the MJ shaft with the yoke from the XJ shaft on it. The reason why I say bring both is because I understand the 2wd shafts are larger and have rubber in them as a vibration damper, and there are some shops that won't touch them with the rubber inside. Arguably you just need the yoke from the newer shaft. Measure the needed length the way the shop recommends, or if possible, have them do the measuring.

:yeahthat: The Renix flywheel has a ton of windows around the edge, with three of them being slightly longer to trigger spark events. The HO only has three windows, each one triggering a spark event.