CWLONGSHOT

Universals?? Depending on what you get.. say 15-20 bucks each. CW

I know what you mean about mud... I bought mine from a horse farm. they lived on a dirt road with a LONG dirt driveway. I am not exaggerating when I tell you I mush have washed 50 pounds of mud from the undercarriage!! CW

REALLY GREAT pic of a super looking Comanche!!! I am jealous!! CW

I am a very lucky man... Right now there is a trailer hitch on the dining room table...AND its been there since Friday when it was dropped off by Fed-Ex!!! I am talking out of the box, sitting on her place-mats. Now its brandy new, so its not dirty...but it IS a jeep part in the house ON the table!! Its for HER Libby...maybe that's why I am getting away with it.... :roll: CW

GOOD JOB!!! Yea, sorry I forgot to mention it can be difficult to get them started strait.... Also clean the "bore" really well with a wire wheel and lightly grease. That's makes it easier too...sorry for the late advice. :oops: :oops: :oops: OH yea....WHERE IS THE PICS??????????????????????????????? ;) :roll: :eek: :D CW

I LOVE my 5150's. But they are a tad expensive... CW

Remove the washer tank and use a wrench or a wobble/universal with the ratchet...no biggie. CW

The phraise is "Revenge is a dish best served cold." :roll: :roll: This sux, I hope he can get it back. CW

OK, my bad, I missread... Same idea, soak it good with that penetrating oil and loosen!! CW

It will work but XJ packs are MUCH flatter then MJ packs. SO, the advertised lift will NOT be the same, it will be less. I have bought the drop shackles at any "speed shop" or on EBAY. CW

I am guessing thats Its one of two things, those same door switches, or the light switch in the dash. If you do the dash switch you cannot easily remove with out taking the "stem" out of the switch. For this you must be double jointed or have small hands. There is a little button on the top of the switch behind the dash that will allow you to pull the "stem completely out. Facilitating the part of the switch that's behind the dash to come out. CW

Most of the time is easier to just remove the mounting brackets WITH the bumper. Get yourself a good penetrating oil. I like to spray them for a couple days before attempting removal. But this will depend on the amount of corrosion you have on your rig. Good luck, CW

Sure, That will work. But you are gonna want DROP cheby shackles. Look for iones in the 8" eye to eye range. This will net you 1.5-2" of lift. don't go any more from shackles alone. CW

This is basically how I did mine as well. Once you get the rubber out, using heat. It's really easy to collapse the steel tube and remove the bushing. The first set I ever did, I did the way Jeff described. It can work, but also can be a real bugger!! BTW, This is one advantage for the two piece pass side axle. The pass side bushing housing is NOT STAMPED crap!!! :D CW

Yes, You can certainly remove it form the bottom WITHOUT removing the bed. Just remember we are talking about a 20+ year old vehicle. So depending on where yours spent its life. Be prepared with replacement bolts and nuts. As its quite likely you will ruin some in the process. I found a guy on EBay selling the stock tank straps. i grabbed a set and will be swapping mine out this spring. I made up the "T" bolts needed to attach the straps. Good luck, CW

While I completely agree with Pete. As it pertains to a vehicle with stock suspension. Yours is not a stock suspension. The addition of your long arms does in fact move the forces of the suspension to areas not originally intended to take them. I do not meant to suggest there is or even could be a problem. Just since you brought it up, maybe a good look with an eye towards articulation/ stress forces may reveal and need for some additional bracing to re-enforce your particular setup. CW

I wanted to...but don't have the room. With the cover, its just as weather protected on top of the winch. The one draw back with mine is I have more of the radiator blocked. The switch is a nice touch!! I still have that on my "To-Do " list. :brows: For now, I just use the hand held corded remote. CW

I agree, I also pay for mine to, cause like Pete...I have quite a few. :D :D CW

Cool you are just the man I wanted to talk to... If you are not running Rusty's adjustable arms which brand and size are you using. Also another question for you, if you had to do it over again would you do the same lift kit or would you do it different, if so how? Before I saw Rusty's SOA kit I was going homebrew/piece a kit together. And go long arms. There are many opinions on who has the best, who flexes the best, who rides the best.....etc. At 4+ inches of lift, adjustable CA's are a must to get castor back to acceptable numbers. You now know this from the great advice others have given. If this is going to be driven as a DD or even still get frequent street use. I have found the BEST compromise in flex to ride quality is found with a arm that will twist AND utilize factory RUBBER, NOT POLY, bushings. the JKS CA's fit this bill as well as being made to a higher standard of quality. They have buku adjustment for length and use the factory CA bushings. The thing you need to realize when selecting a control arm. When you get a HD solid arm it WILL NOT FLEX. Once you get this style ALL available twist and flex MUST come from the bushings/joints alone. When you go for many styles you loose all isolation. This equates to harsh ride. Now this may be tolerable on a trail only rig, it will quickly loose its attractiveness on the street. The factory arms are stamped steel and naturally twist or flex. PLUS they have RUBBER bushings to further mask bumps and holes on the road. POLY bushings do still isolate out some of the harshness, but generally will not flex much. This is why I am recommending the JKS control arms. Good luck, CW

Damn strait my friend...damn strait!! just do what your momma told ya, do one to others and carry a big stick!! CW

#1 killer of synthetic lines!!! In comp they replace them YEARLY!!! MOSTLY because of UV damage!!! Like I said, I have the SAME winch set-up as you do. It fits mine very nicely, I moved my solenoids to top center of the winch. CW

So, did you check and re-adjust the linkage? Really sounds like a linkage adjustment problem, as you where able to get it in 4WD this time and not last.... CW

That's the NORM here in New England!! I just saw the forcast for tomarrow.... Chance of snow highs in the 90's!! :eek: :D CW