CWLONGSHOT

Its not uncommon, some of these trucks are OVER 20yrs old!! If your in the salt belt it don't take long to get "cancer"!!! Spray it liberally and continuously with a good penetrating oil and HOPE you don't twist it off. be sure your using the correct flair nut wrenches on all remaining brake jobs!! Good luck!! CW

Dude, I hate to say this, but if see-sawing the wheel causes this kind of deflection in your TB. Just imagine whats happening with the stresses on it when driving and worse yet...wheeling!!! You have some MAJOR track bar issues. There is NO VISABLE movement in my Kevin's or JKS track bars. As soon as you can swing it, its time to get that crap out of there!! CW

WELCOME!! Pull up a chair, beer is in the fridge...enjoy!! CW

I was pretty sure a TJ coil didn't lift a XJ/MJ as much. If so the shocks will be the same. OH, they will fit just fine, just not provide as much lift. Conversely, YJ shocks offer about 2" longer length than a XJ/MJ. SO a factory YJ shock should do what you need. CW

Well, I FINALLY got time to get the bolts out of the manifold yesterday!! Really wasn't hard at all, the air hammer knocked them right out NO PROBLEM!!! I lifted the frame until my suspension completely unloaded. This allowed lots of room. The front was a BREEZE!!! The rear just a bit more stubborn. I was also able to clean things up under there. i mean I was under there twice with some wire supporting the exhaust so it didn't fall out completely!! I made a new mount just in-font of the cat. I turned the clamp and added a piece of 1.5" angle iron. The took a piece of 3/4X 1/8" steel and mounted that to the "T" case and finally welded them together where they met. I had long ago trashed the factory mid mount at the X member. Then lastly adjusted the last mount before the pipe exits in-front of the pass rear tire. I had had a couple clunks that got found and eliminated with this little project as well!! All in all a good day!! OH BTW.. the studs PRESS IN, NOT screw in as I first suspected. They throw you because the heads are hex as if they where threaded. NOT round like your wheel studs are. CW

Wrangler, There is at least a dozen of us with quite extensive posts of our own Comanche buildups right here!! http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=7 Just start reading!!! If you find something you really like, and if more info is needed. Just post up for that author he and most likely others will answer you. Good luck and good reading!! CW

YUP!!

Guys... they PRESS IN!! As you can see...mine where SHOT!!! I just replaced them with nuts and bolts. Also made a better mid hanger. Its now WAY BETTER and also found a very annoying clunk...that's GONE now as well!! GOOD DAY!! CW

Some comanches are just like this.. dunno why. Mine is too. Just throw an extra 1" spacer on that side and forget about it. CW

I agree with Pete, Two inches is the MOST I would go for an extended shackle on your MJ. New leaf pack or AAL is a better choice. CW

I agree, have the alignment checked!! CW

I have been using USPS priority mail for years now and find it to be excellent. FREE packaging, FREE pickup and the delivery fee is very REASONABLE and its FAST to boot!! Overnight available at CHEAPER costs than Fed-Ex. UPS is OK, but slower, more expensive and expect things to be broken. OH, NEVER NEVER, NEVER put the word FRAGILE on a box shipped with them!!! Package it better and just pay for the extra weight. Fed-Ex is also OK, regular and fast shipping available but again at a higher cost. I have shipped thousands upon thousands of packages. Over a thousand with USPS. Literally, no $#!&. I have had ONE person claim not received the item. I have had a cou0ple damaged, but nothing destroyed. It was later proved he was a simply a liar looking to scam the P.O. for the insurance money. In our conversations, he slipped up and claimed I was fraudulent because I did not use my real name on return address. (I abbreviate the last by half) I then asked him how he could know that unless he had received the package. :brows: Two down falls with them are the 50 or 60 lb limit on packages and the non handling of firearms. (With priority) Conversely UPS has lost and destroyed over twenty packages sent thru them before we switched to USPS. I choose USPS priority for the lions share of my shipments. CW

Didn't realize just how much he's missed, until I read and remembered some of the stuff he said... and stood for. 'Here's my strategy on the Cold War: We win, they lose.' - Ronald Reagan 'The most terrifying words in the English language are: I'm from the government and I'm here to help.' - Ronald Reagan 'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' - Ronald Reagan 'Of the four wars in my lifetime, none came about because the U.S. was too strong.' - Ronald Reagan 'I have wondered at times about what the Ten Commandments would have looked like if Moses had run them through the U.S. Congress.' - Ronald Reagan 'The taxpayer: That's someone who works for the federal government but doesn't have to take the civil service examination.' - Ronald Reagan 'Government is like a baby: An alimentary canal with a big appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.' - Ronald Reagan 'The nearest thing to eternal life we will ever see on this earth is a government program.' - Ronald Reagan 'It has been said that politics is the second oldest profession. I have learned that it bears a striking resemblance to the first.' - Ronald Reagan 'Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.' - Ronald Reagan 'Politics is not a bad profession. If you succeed, there are many rewards; if you disgrace yourself, you can always write a book.' - Ronald Reagan 'No arsenal, or no weapon in the arsenals of the world, is as formidable as the will and moral courage of free men and women.' - Ronald Reagan 'If we ever forget that we're one nation under God, then we will be a nation gone under.' - Ronald Reagan IF YOU AGREE, PLEASE FORWARD . . IF NOT,JUST DELETE or in this case ignore. :roll: :D

Enjoy!!

For the trouble of removing the DS... you will be WAY better off just changing your driving habits!! Here is the mind set... you have a rotten egg permanently attached to the gas pedal. If you depress the pedal too hard you will break the egg and STINK UP YOUR CAB FOR EVER!!! SLOW starts and keep it at a constant speed around 60. Have the truck aligned and slightly over inflate your tires. don't GO CRAZY!! Good luck and drive SAFE!! CW

THANKS MAN!! OOH, and my apologies to you, Jeep thing, I didn't take your advice and looks like you are correct. (I also called a local exhaust shop and he too confirmed that they drive them out from beneath and replace with nuts and bolts.) :oops: CW

And this is the cruxt of my problem... :oops: :cry: :eek: I too have seen BOTH. Just not on a XJ/MJ. I am inclined to go with Eagle. (No offence jeepthing) But again, this is the answer I WANT. Now, I know the 2.5 4CYL is a press in as I did this on one and we now use nuts and bolts. I do not see a way to just "knock it out" as the only access is from below. (With out complete removal) HELP........ CW

While one bushings hole is larger that the other, really all you found is manufacturing differences. If you look close at the old/larger holed bushing. You will see little "tits" on the inside. These are what the bolt rides on and these are what, in effect, creates the diameter of the hole. The new bushing is merely a piece of steel rolled making the same diameter hole as the "tits" make. Don't read me wrongly, I am not saying that the old one isn't worn. It is, just look at the rubber. All I am saying is that the differences are not nearly as much as they first appear. Also, a word of advice, if your building a daily driver, the poly may prove a bit harsh and will in-fact actually impede articulation. By not compressing as much or as easily as the factory rubber bushings will. As to the harshness, while it does isolate some of the bumps it will transmit more into the passengers than the factory rubber bushings do. Good luck and good building!! CW

I was just going to suggest this. GOOD JOB!! If you look underneath you coil. You will see the epoxy the factory pours in to seal the electronics. I am going to bet there is cracks in it!!! I didn't have the NO START..but mine was running funny with poor mileage. I swapped out the coil and presto chango my problem is all FIXED!!! I am glad you got it fixed as well!! ;) CW

I have been having problems with the two studs in the exhaust manifold where the header pipe attaches. (4.0L) The studs are old and rusty and just will not stay tight. I would LOVE to just change them... But they are in a tight spot and not easy to get at. Last night one nut fell right off and now will not stay on at all. SO, now I HAVE to do something..... Got allot of clunking and banging going on under there. I am REALLY hoping I can accomplish this without removing the manifold..... here is my question. I am thinking they must be screw in, but I am not sure. Doe's anyone know for sure one way or the other?? Also, are the metric or standard? Thanks, CW

This is a good explanation!! Now GET-ER-DUN!!! One little thing...there is no crush sleeve on hi-pinion D30s. That's one of the things that makes it better/stronger!! :brows: The std/lo-pinion has the crush sleeve. Your supposed to replace the nut any time it is removed. But the red loctite and careful removal and reinstallation you should be fine. Its also a GREAT TIME to UPGRADE to a U-Bolt yoke and get red of that strap junk!!! CW I don't think there's nothing stock on this rig, the axles are D35s and driveshaft is custom made ... so I guess the Us have also been replaced at that stage of another (although I have no idea). Guys, your absolutely right, in reading I don't see it either.... In the above quote, I have bolded and underlined the words that urged me to make my last post. The statement, "the AXLES are D35s", Axles and D35's say to me that he thinks he has TWO D35 axles. One front and another rear. That's all. Then the statement "and drive-shaft is custom made". This is singular. Combined with his pics only shows rear a rear drive-shaft. Just curious about that. But nothing, sans my post on the Hi-pinion D30 to suggest a front diff. The assumption from me was that it was the front pinion seal. I guess it was because of the crush sleeve being mentioned. But the D35 has one so I guess I didn't need to comment on that at all... MY BAD. :oops: :oops: CW

Mud IS a different animal. It also dose require wheel spin to keep the tread as clean as possible. Your also likely best to keep it in 4HI as well, to keep wheel speed up. Just watch the RPM's as you'll be warned by floating valves just before you punch a hole thru your block when a connecting rod lets go. :eek: :oops: I was thinking rocks as this is what many prefer, mud is fun but is something you grow out of, it ruins seals and is a pain to clean. When you do get to some rocks, 4LO is your best friend!! Have fun with it!! CW

GOOD JOB and NICE pics!!! I cannot see your front axle from your pics but it doesn't look like there is a drive shaft. Has it been removed? Your front is NOT a D35, that's for sure. The only front D35 I can think of is in a FORD twin traction beam axle. If the PO left the crappy D35 its quite likely your front is factory as well. That makes it a Hi-Pinion D30. Good luck with it! CW BTW< was this sold on EBAY? It looks familiar.

This is a good explanation!! Now GET-ER-DUN!!! One little thing...there is no crush sleeve on hi-pinion D30s. That's one of the things that makes it better/stronger!! :brows: The std/lo-pinion has the crush sleeve. Your supposed to replace the nut any time it is removed. But the red loctite and careful removal and reinstallation you should be fine. Its also a GREAT TIME to UPGRADE to a U-Bolt yoke and get red of that strap junk!!! CW