CWLONGSHOT

I just don't agree with this whole "Drive it like you stole it" thing... Sorry man, but driving like that is plain dumb. Whipping the snot out of your rig because you can makes no sense. Not to mention anything about tread lightly... Whats this nonsense about 4.0 not needing 4lo???? Come on!! Give it a try, you just might surprise yourself!!! Your Jeeps got it for a reason, It would not be there if it wasn't needed. Try accomplishing an obstacle with out spinning a tire or having to back up to take a different line. That's DRIVING. Bouncing off the rev limiter as you climb a rock pile is ...well...its dumb. CW

AGREED!! Just last year I helped a friend with hers!! SAME thing, only she didn't even know it had happened!! We where talking about mt MJ when she asked if I noticed or new a reason why a truck would lean.... Five Min's later I found what you took pics of!!! CW

Try plowing with a TJ!!! It won't do well with really deep snow. But is THE BOMB for most of what he get here in Connecticut!!! GREAT Visibility, GREAT turning, Plenty of traction and power. Small enough to maneuver between parked cars and landscape curbs. Its my all time favorite!!! I get a couple hundred hours a year plowing at my job. I plow with Cheby Pu, Super-duty PU's, Wranglers, big dump trucks as well as little John Deere tractors for the walk ways. CW

I have not known of any XJ or MJ that has a plow that doesn't have or won't soon after install develop some kind of temp problem. Traveling with the plow up just blocks too much of the radiator. Plowing your own driveway and maybe just the neighbors will likely be all these trucks can do with out temp problems. Its just the way it is. There are MUCH better choices for a plow truck. That's why there are chebys... use them till they won't run and get another. No worries cause there is MILLIONS of 'em!!!:roll: Get rid of the plow, OR just use it for your own drive and then remove it. drain and refill your tranny with fresh fluid. Do this a couple times as you won't be able to change much more than 1/3 at a time and it sounds like your fluid is burnt... Tranny fluid doesn't like high temps... CW

Nice rig... but I am really diggin the '67 Mustang fastback!!! CW

Could be...I see it now, NICE FIND!!! Congratulations!! CW

I cannot see the pics....anyone else have problems viewing?? The right click "show pic" odoes nuttin... CW

Yea and watch the SMOKE SHOW with your kid in the middle of the mini CAR-B-QUE!! If the thing is made to run a 6V batt and you introduce it to a 18v...you will DEFFINATELY kill the wiring in it. HOPEFULLY no ones kid will get hurt in the precess!!! NOT a good idea!!! CW

Not dumb at all, your SMART cause you FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!! You just took the LONG route!! :D The lesson here is check EVERYTHING and ASSUME nothing. Not necessarily just REPLACE arts. Run a 195 T stat and you should get your heat back!! The 4.0's really do like it on the hot side. Hope you didn't sludge your engine up too bad. 150 is STONE COLD for the 4.0. Maybe a oil change and a couple hundred mile run with a synthetic oil. Then swap back to Dino oil to get her cleaned out? (If your not already running synthetic) CW

The trouble with that design is it will allow moisture to stay in contact with the wires. Same with the clamp style "repair" ends available at parts stores. Not worth the trouble. IMHO, there is only two styles to use. The factory one piece cable or marine style solder/crimp on cable ends WITH shrink tubing. Both will keep out moisture and make for a MUCH longer life of the cable. For the trouble, if you have a stock setup, just get the factory stuff and rest easy. If you have multiple batteries or a winch or a allot of current draw from lights and amps or a winch. its time to consider an upgrade. This should include and better battery, higher amperage alternator and bigger wires. DC electric is very similar to a water pipe, more water means larger pipes. More current draw means larger wires. Running too much current through too small a wire creates resistance. This resistance creates heat, too much heat and you can melt stuff and cause fires. Aside form difficulty running them, you won't hurt anything running a larger wire. I and a couple other guys here made our own setups. Its not hard and you get to run them nice and neat out of the way. I used the Marine style attachments for all the ends. I have a spiral cell batt with two sets of terminals. Both stud and GM style. I use the GM style terminals for the starting duties ONLY. ALL accessories run thru the top stud terminals. I have some pics and descriptions in my thread in mods. CW

VERY GOOD advice man!!! CW

Looks GREAT!!! Keep us posted!! CW

I COMPLETELY agree. I mean what's the point of having the "GO" with out a little "SHOW"???? :brows: :brows: :D CW

If its like the ones that have been out for years, they have little clips that fit under the screws that hold the bezel that holds the headlight in. Then the actual cage fits/snaps on to the clips. I think they look good if you experiment with colors. They give the headlight a color cast in the day time but do nothing for the light color when they are on. I guess they MIGHT offer a bit of protection from smallish gravel and sticks, but really small stuff is going to fly right thru and heavy stuff will just drive the mesh into the light breaking it anyway. IMHO, go ahead and get them, but know its a just for looks kinda mod. Just like the clear corner lights I got and put on tonight!! :brows: :brows: CW

The length of the rear leafs is what it is, I mean it is the same on all MJ"s. BUT as it pertains to AAL's there is a long OR a short. I prefer the long, but its up to you. I am guessing this is what your talking about when you refer to spring lengths. I have Rusty's 4" leafs. I like them allot. They are NOT made by Rusty's, only sold by them. They are soft and flex very well. They have settled a bit but I am still sure I have netted more then the advertised 4". I am adding a RE AAL this spring. I want a bit more spring rate for when I have weight in the bed or when I am trailering. CW

UPDATE: Radiator is perfect, temp get just over 200 then drops to about 190 or so. Busted a muffler hanger... BIOTCH of a fix.... Didn't have time for a correct fix, so a coat hanger is sufficing until I can get to a real fix later this week. The RE add-A-leaf arrived Saturday!! It LOOKS, like its gonna work well. Its got just a bit more arch than my Rusty's pack. (Like I hopped) Just not sure about OAL length. OOH, don't get me wrong, I know its gonna fit... I just hope I won't need to cut them so the length falls between what I have now. As usual... pics to come. :roll: :brows: :brows: CW

SUPER NICE tire and wheel package!!! I really like the look!!! CW

NICE flex outta dem DB's!!! :brows: :brows: :brows: :brows: :brows: CW

Ya but the ride is gona kill ya I dunno, I have about the same with the front of my truck. it's doable and liveable for awhile. basically i just did 3" coils, adjustable track bar, 1 3/4 spacers with 3" lift shocks, stock control arm's, and cherokee end links. granted my truck isn't level, but I soon will get it leveled out. Fubar is speaking of the ride quality of the FORD COILS, not the amount of lift. 3" is ok with short arms, but it is the beginning of where you want to look at adj lowers to gain back some positive caster. Again, its is liveable with the addition of some factory shims. CW

This is a good option is you want to eliminate the diso. CW

Yes they will..but they will not be disco axles. Those went away with the HO in 1991. CW

Go 4:56, definitely!! Sticks can really benefit from a ratio on the taller side. Autos are variable anyway, at least until the converter locks up. (If you have a model that does) I have 4:56 on my MJ. I built it around 33" tires. Works great. I really like the ratio. Its still got a good sized pinion, (D30) so there is enough beef. I recently dropped down to a set of MT-R's that are just over 31" tall. (Just a winter tire set) Its even better!!! I have a TJ with 4:10's rolling on 35's. Its also got a 4:1 Tcase, so off road its geared PLENTY lo. Its also got a number of engine HP upgrades. So it works well with this ratio. BUT I wish I had gone for the taller ratio there as well. Something to ponder, I have never herd anyone swapping gears in a off road vehicle say they wish they hadn't geared it so lo. Have you? CW

If you get them for free or next to it...why not go for it!!! The lunch box's are not bad really. It my opinion that they got allot of there bad rap from the enormous popularity of the wrangler. People put them in and didn't like what happened. (I didn't either!!) Well, many where standard shifts, this coupled with the VERY short rear drive shafts made for a bad combination. Our Comanches have a long drive shaft and many have autos. both of these are GOOD for eliminating the harshness that gave the lunch box its black eye. I had two in my TJ, one in the D35 and another in the 8.8. Both where harsh and made road driving a chore. I was WAY skeptical about doing it again with the Comanche. But they are SO EASY to put in, I figured no harm as I got it as a free loaner form a friend. I threw it in, along with new pins and springs as I am recommending to you. It drove GREAT!! Almost invisible, REALLY, aside form the tire chirps if I was heavy footed in corners, you never knew it was thee!!! I say go for it!! Once you get it and know the manufacturer, disassemble, clean well, get your self new springs and pins. (Cheap kit available) Look it over good and reassemble. Enjoy the traction increase!! CW

You will need a set of shafts from a 1995 Jeep YJ. CW

Why not a double registration... You know, you sign up, as you do now. this generates an email with a link bringing you back to the site. Where they now see one of those rotating numbers letters filters. You know the one so someone has to actually enter the numbers before getting the final email with there actual access... CW