CWLONGSHOT

CJ's are diff from MJ's for sure...... Last time I looked, quadratec had couple suppliers for seat covers... CW

NICE WORK!!! CW

Your pic is so close.. I do not recognise what your showing us... Did you check out my post? Did it help any?? CW

HELLO neighbor!!! Nice buildup!! Where in CT are you located?? I am in Meriden. CW

Go to my Comanche's hot link and then to page 17 thats wher the DB install starts.. CW

Do you have them upside down?? IIRC the elongated hole was for the LCA?? CW

IIRC.. the only drilling was to open up a bolt hole for a larger bolt.... I am @ work, I can check my directions for you (Where is yours?) if no one else answers first. I'll be home in a couple three hours.. Maybe the pics in my build up will help?? Hot link is in my sig. CW

Glad your satisfied.. don't drive one with a LA or DB's. Your bank account will suffer ireputable damage!!! :eek: :eek: :D I couldnt believe the difference the 5150 Bilsteins/ RE/DB's and JCR steering made in my comanche!!! Last winter, I decided to throw a grand or so at the comanche instead of buying a new vehicle for DD duties. SO GLAD I did!!!! I LOVE my manche!!! CW

There is a good set of pics here too!! http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2882 Its near the end...maybe page 4 or 5. I think he said he chopped up XJ pannels for the patches... NICE work!!! Personally, I took the lazy way out....chopped the fenders and moved the flairs up to cover!! :D :D CW

So your still short arm and NO DB's? I found the ride REALLY choppy at that height. I got really tired at 6.5" with stock inverted Y steering... how are you dealing with that??? CW

Thank you, Its a fun stress reliever. Now I just need to get time to use it in the woods and on the rocks!!! I have a couple things planned for warmer weather... 1) I picked up some ford 4.6 injectors 2) New front coils 3) 97+ front end (not completely decided) 4) PAINT... again :oops: :cry: :headpop: 5) New carpet/rubbermat for interior along with that hedliner. As far as the front coils... Got two choices. I could just get a set of 4 - 4.5 stiffer rate coils and put them in and call it good. OR, I could go with say a 6" BDS coil or 6.5 Rustys and SOA the rear to balance. The spring rate of the coils I have now are too light. The ride and flex are very good. But I cannot hit a bump at any kind of speed with out bottoming out. CW

All I see is a red X........ is it just this crappy work puter??? What have you done with the steering and front CA's? Still stock? You got any pics? CW

NICE JOB!!!! GREAT SOURCE!!!!! Pete could you STICKIE THIS??? CW

Throttle Position Sensor Its on your throttle body. don't JUST REMOVE IT!!! The way its attached is a specfic setting for your trucks idle. (if its a renix ) CW

Thanks, VERY SHARP RIDE!!! Do you have a link to a write up on the specs?? I would love to read up on how you built it!! CW

OK, how did the Rustys 4" springs compair to SOA W/ factory leafs? CW

Double check the WIRES for the CPS. The plug was a known problem. try a meter to be sure the plug is good. If found to be faulty, just hard wire and eliminate the plug. One other thing to remember, just cause a part is new, dosent eliminate it from speculation. CW

Its lacks support for favorable ride quality on road and stregnth on the trail. On one of my buddies, he totally wasted the frame and axle mounts. Now he is a hard wheeler, but NOT abusive. he is an adult and drives with 20+ years experience wheeling. We swapped out the joints for beefier ones. Got a set of MORE mounts and welded everything up. Two trips later the arm itself was tweaked. Befed the rm by making new one with thicker/ stronger stock. Ripped the mounts off the axle and began cracking the ones on the frame. We swapped on a home brew set of uppers and that was over a year ago. He is also now able to drive on the road!! From day 1 he was not able to with the 3 link. He couldnt ever drive it a a transportation vehicle..its a wheeler. But sometimes you need to drive a mile or three to the trail head from the trailer parking spot. in the past he DREADED that short drive. I do not know of to many guys running this three link in competitions. They just don't hold up. Too many unexpected stresses on the upper arm. Everything form stock has its drawbacks and many we are willing to accept and put up with. Your right about the caster drawback on radius arms. Again, looking at them form a wheeling stand point. one would say, SO WHAT, your traveling at 10mph TOPS. Who cares about caster. But, Drive it daily on the street and another group of different idosyncracies arise. I am not trying to diswade one way or another, just further inform guys of some things that are not spoken about ot mentioned in the manuels form the manufactures. Nothing here say here either, although I have read others simular experiences, these are first hand experiences form my days on the trail wheeling. I am sure there are guys out there running them with little to no problems. These are meerely my experiences. CW

WOW, SOA with a 3 or 4" lifted spring!!! Thats tall!!! Care to give a measurement from the ground, straight up thru the center of the hub to the top if the bed? ;) What springs do you have, 3 or 4" of lift? I also have the Rustys 4" SUA leafs. No sag, VERY suple and flex extreamly well. BUT they will not support alot of weight. I mean if yours is a work truck and you haul alot of weight frequently. You may not like these springs. I am not talking about once in a while stuff. I do that too and I'm fine with it. Just day in and day out, hauling alot of weight. I don't think they would be a good choice. CW

TRUE.. BUT if utalizing Drop Brackets. They have built in adjustments for the FACTORY CA's to work with a 4" lift. SO, you can use the WJ CA's and the DB's and be PERFECT at 4-5+" of lift!!! Also, you could also just upgrade your rims to ones with LESS Back Space and leave factory CA's alone.... If your going to 32 or larger tire, these are generally 11.5 and wider. Many shops will not mount that width tire on anything less than a 8" wide rim. MJ/XJ rims are 6 and 7" in width. Some TJ rims where aval in 8" width, but the BS is still 5.25" and this WILL make contact with LCA's. Just so's we're clear. CW

Dude, don't get me wrong. I'm not dissing LA's as long as there is four of them. (Or a good radius arm set up) They will definately ride and handle better as stated, they also flex awesomly. Just know all the facts. Thats why i mentioned the shocks previously. Guys get cought up in the hype and someimes miss the fores for the trees. there is a couple more things in your front end to effect articulation. Long Arms are NOT THE END all answer. they are a GOOD part of a SYSTEM for better ride and articulation. The factory, stock track bar is a flex inhibator as is the factory steering that you mentioned. Add a LA kit with out considering and BUDGETING for these you will much regret it. You NEED a good non-binding steering setup as well as a Track Bar that is better engineered. Like the RE or Kevins systems. They both use a WJ style bar that dosen't inhibit droop in the slightest. The DB's do everything I have asked from them. I havent regretted the decision once. Good luck, CW

The way the frame is made on MJ's it provides more support to the DB's than on a XJ. Many people say MJ's do not require the braces. I do not have them on mine and do not have any problems. If your handy, and have a welder or access to one, you could easily fab up something if you really thought you needed it. CW

That's something only you can decide... OK, having said that... her is my thoughts and comments on what others have said here. Flex differences will be close, REALLY, your shock length is whats limiting my droop, (And anyone else's)NOT the short arms and DB's. You can only get so long a shock in there... THATS your limiting factor..NOT the DB's. LA's WILL ride better, but the DB's where SUCH an improvement it wasn't funny!! Its a cost thing as Jeff said. That's what I thought as well!! NOT necessarily the case!! RE offers these with there 5.5" lift. They make them and should know best. As Lead not follow points out, this is enough lift for 33 or 35" tires. With this size tire those DB;s are up and covered pretty well by the tires. Will ya hit them i the rocks, SURE. I have been in some pretty technical places and they have yet to stop me or seriously cause me to consider them when picking a line. Its VERY similar to my opinion on the 8.8 swap in TJ/YJ's. I feel 37" is max size, but 35 is MINIMUM size. this is just because the sheer size of this axle. if you haven't looked at one, its damn near a D60!!! Its a GREAT ROCK FINDER with 33's gets worse with anything smaller. I know I wheeled one for three years on some of the toughest trials this part of the country has to offer!! Since going to 35's two years back, its WORLDS better. I have two buddies with three link front axles.. My opinion is STAY AWAY for STREET VEHICLES!!!!! Not allot better for off road!! It will flex like mad, but BOTH guys have WICKED DW on the road!! BOTH guys have ripped from and axle mounts as the increased stress to the single upper arm as too much for them. Just my 2cents, CW

If you want my advice... BEFORE you go out and just start changing parts will e Nill e. :D :eek: Look thru the TUNDREDS of threads on DW and check EVERY PART in your front end. ASSUME NOTHING, NEW doesn't mean its not the problem. You WILL FIND IT, if your diligent. CW

I redid all my batt cables as well as my winch cables last year with my 200amp alt upgrade. BIG DIFFERENCE!!! I got a big crimp-er from work, also got the cabling from work. Last spring, we tore down one of our X-Ray rooms and this huge fine stranded wire was what it used. The contractor wanted the stuff for scrap, but as it wasn't in his quote, I got the wire!! :brows: :brows: I bought some big shrink tubing and made them to the exact lengths I wanted. Nice and clean. Its in my write up in projects and linked in my signature. Truck runs better, starts faster and I like it better!!! CW