CWLONGSHOT

Proper wheel balance is required at speeds at and above 45mph. Start with a tire re-balance and include a good wheel alignment. This will likely correct or point out your bigger problem. if a part is bad or going in the front end a good shop will see it and not be able to align until its corrected/replaced. CW PS... Please do a search on any jeep forum. Include the words/phrases, DW or DEATH WOBBLE.

Yes, there's a difference. A limited slip is a limited slip. It isn't a locker. Put too much torque to it and the clutches slip. It also wears out, and the clutches require a special additive for the gear oil. Just to ad a bit more... On the street there is no advantage to a locker. the limited slip will do you perfect. Keep both tires on pavement and you will spin or not spin both. Yet, go around a corner easy on the throttle and the inside tire is allowed to spin just a bit faster. But lift a tire like you do off-road and you have just defeated 98% of all limited slip units manufactured today. Because as Eagle pointed out, its a LIMITED SLIP or better named off-road, LIMITED TRACTION. All the power WILL go to which ever tire is moved the easiest. That's the one in the air. With a LOCKED axle, BOTH rear wheels are solidly connected and one CANNOT spin with out the other, NO MATTER WHAT. (Short of breaking) Go around a corner with a LOCKED axle and even crawling will result if "chirping" a tire. that's because when you do a circle the tires on the inside are making a smaller circle than the tires on the outside. But because they are locked and CANNOT spin at different speeds, one has to "give" and "chirps". Don't be confused, I said that that axle was LOCKED, as in a spool, not that it has a locker in it. I don't mean to be confusing, but some lockers WILL allow one tire to rotate independent of the other. the Detroit Locker, Loc-rite and EZ-locker are but three that will do this. the key is throttle, more throttle forces the locking action. get off the gas, like in a corner and one tire or side will "ratchet" and spin differently than the other. LOCKED axles on the street are harsh and hard on tires and drive trains. That's why selectable lockers are so popular for vehicles that need to drive near factory normal on the street. Diffs like ARB and OX are two examples. Both of these allow fully locked spool like traction on one end and completely open for the street. Hope this explains more than confuses... CW

Thnaks for all the tips and advice guys!! Just about ready to order this, just wanna hear from a couple others... here and on my home clubs board. PSSST...Dirty you out there??? CW

No offence taken. None at all, its all good!! CW

EXACTLY. Look at it this way, This crap about drive it like you stole it certainly WILL break a D35 right quick!! Posi, Limited slip, traction loc, power loc are the same animal. Clutch type traction assist devices. Chevy used one name, Ford and Jeep another and Chrysler/ Dodge still another. Apples to apples. It wasn't until recently manufacturers started offering true lockers to there vehicles. CW

C.W. Longshot...... My pop saddled me with this one, many years back. Way back in and just before my high school days. I was bent over car /jeep fenders swapping parts and "fixin" stuff. In those early years, like all kids, you THOUGHT you knew it all. So you tried anything. Well, I royally screwed up a little Holley 4bbl I was "fixin". Pop to the rescue. His first question...What did you touch? TYPICAL KID answer...NUTHIN'!!! Well after about 20 Min's of resetting the float levels and re-setting the mixture screws he had it running pretty good. He called me... Carburetor Willie, and told me to keep my fingers OUT OF THAT CARB!!! I learned a bit that day and the first part of my name had struck. My whole family was calling me CW. The long shot part came a couple years later aft high school. In my family you grew up outdoors. hiking, fishing, hunting, riding horses etc. I was hunting since I was about 12, shot my fist deer with a bow just a couple years after that. Around that time compound bows where just getting popular, having come out a couple years before. My first compound was a Allen compound and I got REALLY good at shooting with it. Well, with aluminium arrows, it shot fast and flat in comparison to the recurve stick bows pop grew up with. One day while heading out of the woods for lunch, we saw a couple three deer feeding across the other side of a large field. There was my grandfather, my father, my brother and my self. Pop cut off to try to get close enough for a shot. We staued there to watch the show. The deer continued to feed along totally unaware of the three of us looking at them from the tote road. We watched my pop for about 45mins, slowly creeping along to get with in the twenty yards he needed for a good shot. One or two on the deer separated from the others and fed out into the middle of the field. This brought them to about 60 or 70 yards of our position. I said to my self, heck I shoot that all the time on hay bales. I am gong to shoot one before dad!!! Well, I moved just a bit to get a clear shot and drew back and drilled the lead doe form where I stood. My father was flabbergasted, he had spent the better part of an hour sneaking and waiting and here I shot one from 60 or so yards out. LONGSHOT was born. :brows: I use this name for everything I do that requires a handle. CW

I hate to say this but I have lost quite a number of family members as well as two dogs. ALL, short of loosing my Mom last year, where easier to let go than the first Dog. Its like tearing you in pieces. I feel for you man, It ain't easy, but truer words have not been spoken than what doesn't kill you makes you stronger. Don't forget and move on, embrace your friend ship you had. Get another best friend just never forget the last one. He'll be there waiting for ya, when its your turn. Mine is 10 this year, I know he doesn't have allot more in him. I DREAD the day!! Yea, hes got a thing for kiddie pools... He is not too good in the heat. I have caught him in the neighbors kids pool a number of times!! ;) :roll: Chin up, move on. Good luck, CW

My old Snap-on $#!& the bed last week. Its old and well used, I brought it down to the welding supply to inquire about repair and was told, they could fix it. But there would be a min $90 fee than any parts and labor would be on top of that. If I decided against the repair, I would still owe the $90. Actually, I would have to pay that just to drop it off. SO, like I said, its old and done its share of welding jobs, time for a new unit!! I have a 230v Lincoln buzz box at my disposal for the big stuff. So I am leaning hard at staying with a 110-115v unit. I already have the gas bottle and regulator and will be looking for a unit that utilizes it. I know about Millers and Lincoln units and know they are good, but they are also top dollar. How are the Hobart units? Specifically the Hobart handler 140 M500500 unit? I can get this for under 500 locally as well as a number of online locations with free ship. http://cgi.ebay.com/HOBART-HANDLER-140- ... dZViewItem http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldi ... 00500.html I know about the 20% duty cycle and the 1/4" limitation. I also just learned Hobart is owned by Miller. I wouldn't hesitate on a Miller at this cost so what about the Hobart? I need to do this pretty quick as I am in the middle of a couple projects and want to return the borrowed unit ASAP. All advice welcome!! Thanks, guys, CW

Any one else? How about UPDATES to existing posts?? I just added one.;) CW

I got both of mine in my signature!!! '99 TJ • 4.0 • 5 spd • HP-D30 W/AUSSIE & 8.8 W/ECTED • 4:10's • http://cave76.org/forums/cromag.php?mod ... cwlongshot '89 MJ • 4.0 • AW4 • D44 W/ECTED • HP-D30 W/Posi-Lok • 4:56's • http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1230

This guy not have the net?? :huh???: He lurks here sometimes.. Trouble is he is an on the road mechanic for a boom truck manufacturer. So, he is gone from home at least 6-7 mos of the year. I'll send him a link to this or that and he goes on and reads, but he hasn't joined as far as I know. I have posted up his rig before. Image Not Found CW

I have one in a 8.8. It was perfect, No problems at all. Worked flawlessly from opening the box till now, three years later. NO Problem's or complaints at all. SO, I bought one for the 44 in the MJ... Two units later, STILL spotty operation. Then miss-information followed by untruths until finally outright lies from the factory. I will NEVER buy a product from this company ever again. I will also do what I am doing now, telling anyone who asks what I think about this company and product. I haven't wheeled in a while, but throw the switch every now and again to be sure its working. last fall, It did just that...nothing. I left it on for a couple days to see if it would engage, nothing. I checked the fuse and the connections, still nothing. I did this again some months later when we had some deep snow. It was on then for a couple days. Finally one day I had to turn sharply on some semi dry pavement. Well, behold, I felt some binding... further examination showed that my rear axle could in fact lock!!! Last month I tried it again...nothing. I don't know what I am going to do...at least the LS that's built in is aggressive and works well. If you check out my build-up there is everything posted as it happened day by day. CW

No one is going to recomend putting ANY EXTRA money into a D35 axle. ME INCLUDED!!!!Put the cash into an UPGRADE!!! One popular one ifs the 8.8 Ford form a 96 and up exploder. (That year gets you disc brakes and 31 spline axle shafts) Another is a 29spl 8.25 Cryco from a newer XJ and yet another is a D44 from another MJ or from a XJ. I have two ECTED diffs, I cannot in good faith recomend them to anyone. CUSTOMER SERVICE BLOWS!!! CW

If you think about the ergonomics of the track bar. You'll find out that as the vehicle is lifted the axle moves to the DS. Conversely to the PS as it is compressed. I don't know about different lengths of TB's in the jeep line as the width of the axle is the same for all that use the D30 solid axle. There are definitely different bends, I think the first change happened with the HO motor in about 91/92. I also know the TJ bar will fit, but is also bent differently. I am unsure if either of these would produce the problem you are experiencing. For this to happen your TB would have to be too short for the height of the vehicle. Just for $#!&s and giggles, what is the height in inches of your front end. Measure from the center of the hub to the edge of the flair directly above it. CW

Saw my brother-in-law for easter... Showed him this post.....AND, Just ordered another set for him!!! :brows: :roll: he has a 1988MJ long bed big ton. His build up begins this summer.. We also ordered a RE6500 for him!! Thats the 5.5 MJ lift!! He has already got the 4:88 gears for the axles. CW

Yup. I made my own as well. I wanted a "cleaner" look than re-using the stock plates. I also wanted them up on the axle tube, out of harms way. I bought shock mounts form the "HELP" rack at the parts store. I took square "C" stock, cut it at about 2" long. Drilled a hole centered, for the stud, mounthed the stud and put a tack weld on the nut. Took the assembly and welded that to the axle tube. I also decided to make new upper mounts to better fit the long shocks I needed. But this isnt required for all instulations. Good luck, CW

I have a couple in the corner of the garage. I can go measure in the morning. if no one else beats me to it. Can I ask, how did you arrive at the 3/8" measurement? (Guess I just did huh ;) ) Its likely either the vehicle is higher or lower than stock. Higher could obviously be from a lift or if you had recently jacked up the truck and let the suspension "hang". it could just need to settle. OR and my most likely scenario the suspension is or has sagged. CW

Brent, THEY LOOK AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GREAT job!!! How is the height? When I put the Corbeaus in my TJ, they where angled too far back and sat too high. Yours look about stock. CW

Spline is 27 as Twisty already told you. But that is only the spline on the axle shafts. It has nothing to do with the gearing. Unfortunately there are no absolutes in the Jeep world. BUT, as a general rule 4.0's with an auto got 3:55 gears. 4.0 with a stick 3:07's. 2.5's with a auto 4:10 (some 3:73) Once you go to sticks it changes with the 4 and 5 speed trannys.... Hope that helps more than confuses.. CW

I am very close to doing this as well!! Now I'll wait and see what you have to say!! Thanks!! Please post up what you think of yours once you get it and check it out!! CW

All renix 4.0's I have had or seen start slower than one would expect. as for the delay... I would look at your battery, its cables or connections.. CW

I think I can safely say I meet the minimal fab requirements... :brows: :brows: :roll: ;) I'll get them in!!! I put in Corbeau suspention seats in my TJ. They would fit the factory bases...only where angled funny and sat very high. I sent back the factory addaptors and made my own!! MUCH BETTER!!!! CW

Mine are on order... THANK YOU SIR!!! CW

don't freet too much. you will LOVE the improvements. Long arms are great, but DB's MORE than fit the bill for increased ride quality!!! CW

OK, they LOOK good, but how about overall quality? How do they feel sitting in them. Is the support good or lacking???? Are they firm supportive or just hard or overly soft.... You mention that they are 2 high and would require much fab to fit in the MJ. Why, itsnt the Yj simular to the MJ in sliders? The fab dosen't bother me, I like that challange. But how about height, do you think that would sit higher than a factory XJ seat with out looking at the sliders? OR is the sliders what makes them high??? They come with sliders, right? My biggest complaint is the rocker sliders on my XJ buckets make them too high. I cannot see the gauges and hit my noodle on the door jamb..... Thnaks a bunch man for the info!!! If you where closer, I'd just come a visit with a box of Killains!!! I'll order mine 2nite if I like what I hear.... CW