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CWLONGSHOT

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Everything posted by CWLONGSHOT

  1. Glad to hear you got it fixed!!! CW
  2. Pop rivet and panel adhesive is also a viable option. Its a bit more work to drill a hole then add a pop rivet..but the day your working under there and puncture your hand/head other body part, you will wish you had... YES this is experience talking!!! CW@
  3. Not certain, but pretty sure that they are. I bought XJ buckets a couple years back with the bases installed.... Welded actually. CW
  4. This afternoon, I finished the seat install!! WOOHOO!!! It was also not just a simple bolt in.... Seems Jeep needed to make more room for the Tcase. So the drivers side seat area is a bit smaller than the pass side. Because these seats are wider, this poses a bit of a problem. We looked and measured and found that we could take back some of the space jeep took when forming the floor pan. Courtesy of a 4lb sledge and some mussel. After moving the floor back about an inch and a half we positioned the seat on the bases and marked them for the bolts. After the front was in it was easy to measure for the rear placement. That same rear bolt is a bugger on this side as well. But all in all, pretty much a carbon copy of the pass side. only this time we had a game plan. Took about an hour and a half. So that make this a bout a 4 hour or 6 beer job. I like the look and the seating is stellar!! My head is now about 5" from the ceiling and I can see the gages from under the steering wheel!!! Before, with the old seats/bases my head was just about an inch from touching. CW
  5. Hey this is a FAMILY forum... No more GORE pics please... Some of us can be quite sensative about seeing things like this!! :roll: ;) CW Thats a cryin' shame!!
  6. I keep a number of different patched and cords for repairing tires out on the trail. If you talking about just a hole, say no bigger the 1/2". I would say a patch with a center "spike" would suit you very nicely. I have used these for a couple tires that where punctured and all live on today. You can get them at Pep boys, Auto Zone and like places. Good luck, CW
  7. I got the pass side in today!! Full write up here: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... 0036#90036 CW
  8. I decided to jump into the seat install first..... I removed the old seats and started by bolting up the sliders that came with the seats... No instructions, leave you to decide on what is front and what back. I don't think it matters as I bolted one up each way to try to decide which was better. Both worked, but we decided on one over the other based on leverage of the adjuster. Speaking of the adjusters... Problem #1, the bends on mine are all FUBAR!!! When you bolt it up, the tops tip in so when you try to slide, it comes off and will not work properly. I bent the ends with a large Phillips screw driver so that the two holes ran parallel with the sliders. You can see the re-bent ends. The base bolts are wider by almost twice. So you need to make something to accommodate. I chose some 1.5"X3/16 steel. I cut two pieces to 15" and drilled one 3/8" hole in each end. Then bolted that to the sliders with 3/8X1" bolts and nyloc nuts. Then I measured the factory seats and bases and decided on placement. Looks like the one base stud sits almost dead center. So I measured and marked both bases for center as well as my new cross pieces. I lined up the front base with the front edge and drilled two 1/4" holes using 1/4" X 1" bolts and nyloc nuts. The yellow marks are center line's. The rear was just a matter of measuring so the slotted hole fell centered on the seat studs and drill for the two bolts. Well, here arose problem number two... The seats are wider than the factories and because of the design they also sit lower. (My biggest reason for wanting them!!) They would not bolt in as I had them put together. the base needed to be shifter out towards the door/outside of jeep by 5/8". It was hitting the " transmission hump". So I moved it over by 5/8" and reinstalled. You can just see the stud and how far it needs to move over. On to problem number three... These seats bases are way wider than what was in there. So the rear bolts/studs are now under the seat. Well, there is NO ROOM for the nuts or a wrench or even to see what your doing!! My pop was able to get his much smaller hands contorted enough to get the nut started. We got that tight only to find once it was the wrench wouldn't come off!!! Loosened it back up, found a thinner wrench and got it tight again. The inside bolt was easier, but still not a piece of cake!! I was only able to get in the pass side, but here is the finished shots. I don't know if I'll have a chance to get the drivers side in tomorrow, but we will see. I also picked up some steel to move the push bar, but never got that far... More to come!! CW
  9. I also like this look... Mostly because its different than everyone elses. That just the way I think, I want something different than what everyone else has... If I run across one for a good price, I'll likely do it, unless I get a 97-02 first... :brows: CW
  10. Mitch, That does look much better!!! My new seats came today!!! Install VERY soon!!!! CW
  11. Well, Mine arrived a day EARLY!!! They where here when I got home!! There was a minor causality...one side handle, cracked. it still works, I'll have to call for a replacement. NICE and quite comfortable!!! CW
  12. Thank you everyone for all the tips, recomendations and advice!! You guys ROCK!!! I ordered the Hobart 140 today from Harbour Freight. They had a deal with free shipping AND FREE cart...$459.99!!!!! Total cost, $480... doesn't add up right... I questioned, I thought shipping was free...well it is, but there is a $20 fuel surcharge!! Oh well, no biggie, I still go a good deal!! Should be here next Friday!!! CW
  13. CWLONGSHOT

    discos

    JKS is the BOMB!!! cw
  14. Grab some TPS, map, EGR and CPS sensors!!! CW
  15. Sorry dude, there is no "easy or cheap" LS you can add to yours. The way I see it, you have to choices. Buy another complete rear with the correct ratio and a LS. OR, just throw in a Loc-Rite in the junk you have and don't drive it like you stole it... CW
  16. I got them from a link to EBAY another member here posted up a month or so back. Maybe try a search on EBAY for them. I agree guys, its is too light a bracket. But it was a quick install. Did it all in an hour last night. I do like the fact that it can be seen over the hood and from a distance really dosen't look as obtrusive. I was looking at it again this am and think I may be able to use a 6" piece of large 4" angle iron for beefier bracket. This will allow the it to be mounted lower and closer to the jeep.... Its a work in progress. I'll work on it this week end when I dive into my new seats!!!! :brows: CW
  17. I know what you mean!! I have a 140# rottie and he is also too large for the cab!!! I have tons of pics, but not many show reference to his size. This is the biggest dog bed Cabela's makes: Here he is on a Queen sized bed: Here is a couple of him "smiling" for the camera: How does yours like water? Mine LOVES IT!! Good luck with him, Ridge-backs are a great underrated breed. You do know he is bread for African LION HUNTING, right? CW
  18. I decided to throw on the Westin front bar I grabbed from the wife's WJ crash last year. I have been wanting to get some protection around my winch for some time. I put it up and stood back and looked at it. it looked feasible. It mounts with two bolts from the back. They go directly into the tubes. First problem... the mounting bolts line up perfectly with the width of the back bone winch mount. So I cannot just drill two holes and mount it up as I had hoped. I had some 1.5X3 square stock on the shelf and figured I could make some quick brackets. I cut it at a 45 on one end and 90 at the other. My reasoning was because the mounting bolt is SO long, I would never have gotten it in with out the angle to remove the rear portion of the square tube. Then I positioned it so the tube fell almost at the edge, giving me as much space for the bolts as possible. I mounted these brackets to the fascia of the back bone with three 3/8 x1.5 bolts each. I was going to get fancy and make them studs so they would be easier to attach, but figured there would be plenty of room and skipped it. There was room and they mounted up easily. Here is some pics of the brackets mounted up on the back bone winch mount. It ended up being a bit higher than I would have liked. Not to mention how far it sticks forward. Here is a couple pics of the finished product. CW
  19. It does stick out kinda far...don't know if I like it or not.....I'll leave it for a couple days and see how I like it. CW
  20. I hear that!!! HFB man!!! CW
  21. You just prompted me to throw on a Westin push bar I grabbed off the wife's WJ she totaled last year. Pics to come...I don't know if I will like it, but lets see how bad it comes out... CW
  22. Dude, No disrespect meant, I hate to be the one to tell you, If this is actually true you are the only person in existance who had DW caused by worn out shocks... No matter what anone tells you shocks, good bad or non existant CANNOT cause death wobbles. At the very least, yours was minor and the new shocks are meerly masking a continung condition. The same is true of spark plugs abd wires...I am not saying you didnt get a shudder or very rough running engine from these items. What I am saying is they cannot possibly cause, effect or have any thing to do with Death Wobbles. CW
  23. Front or rear? Front MAJOR, the ends are not set correctly for the caster a Jeep needs, So they would need to be removed and rewelded. Then there is all the bracketry. NOT IMPOSSIBLE, but difficult. Rear, IIRC, it is too narrow. CW
  24. Mine will be here FRIDAY!! CW
  25. I started and kind been stalled...started with a Detours BACK BONE winch mount.. CW
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