CWLONGSHOT

Yup, as mentioned the YJ hoses work nice for a couple inches of lift and by moving down a bit can work for even more lift!! Personally, I have 4" ext YJ lines on my MJ right now!! CW

Its a manually operated CABLE setup, that when pulled, moves the fork from dis- engage to engage. Also allows for 2WD LO-RANGE!!! :brows: CW

What Pete wanted to know is are you using a Factory Jeep rim? If so which one, because the rims Back space as well as tire design will determine if you will have a problem with rubbing. For the most part, with stock rims. A 30" tire will fit with no rubbing. If you have a tire with side tread, you may notice a bit of contact with the lower control arm at full lock. it is able to be adjusted out with the stops. Those tires may not be legal in some states, they are re-treads. CW

It is as simple as that.... As you remove the parts from the XJ, you'll see how to put them into the MJ. Then just remove the stalk form the column and your done!! CW

Silly boy.. Tell us something else we already know.... :roll: :roll: :roll: CW

As I see it you have a number of choices. 1) Simplest way is to remove cad, install washers so fork keeps sleeve engaging inner and outer axles all the time. 2) Buy a POSI-LOC 3) Build you own posi Loc as car ramrod mentioned. 4) Rebuild/ clean / replace worn parts in the factory system so it works as it should. CW

Get the related parts from a donor XJ and install...... :roll: ;) CW

Needed or not, extra support to this area cannot really be a bad thing. They look pretty good, but its an add, they SHOULD look good. Give'em a try and post up your findings!!! ;) CW

That's likely because of your springs condition. Spring wrap comes up commonly because it s EASY way to lift. Many trucks lifted this way are saggin... IE the springs are SHOT ALREADY. Take a shot spring and spring over it, where the rotational forces are grater and WALA, you got yourself some SPRING WRAP BABY!!! Many many factory vehicles use a spring over setup with little to know problems. Longer perches DO HELP. CW

Mid 90's. Mine is a '96 IIRC. CW

Sorry to see this concerning the paint... bed inside sure looks nice!! Eagle has good advice, go back after you cool off and lodge a formal complaint. Line X is a big operation, there has to be someone who you can speak with and get satisfaction!! CW

You just found a problem!!! Likely a noise as well. No it should be as ridgid on both sides. That bushing is a very tight almost a press fit. Good news is you can get complete replacement arms WITH bushings installed from Quadratech pretty cheap. Even the install isn't too bad!! CW Here is the upper: http://www.quadratec.com/products/56015_004.htm Here is the lower: http://www.quadratec.com/products/56015_001.htm

I like it too!! Pete, good idea, random pic, random choice of the avalible pics. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

Yes the Ford is the same lug pattern... but the center hole could be too small. The ford steel rim is a nice jeep rim as well because of the lower BS numbers, but these need to be opened up a bit to fit the Jeep hub. not a big deal with a steel rim.... Give it a try Pete, I'd be interested to know if that was the case for alloys as well. CW

"A mans got to know his limitations." From the same movie... "Your a legend in your own mind." CW

"You Keep Me Hangin' On" by The Supremes

Not talking about price here... but its a general acceptance than ANY vehicle with less then 12,000 miles per year is considered LO MILEAGE. SO, a 10 year old vehicle with LESS than 12,000 mile would be a LO MILEAGE vehicle. Price, that's all over. Blue book is what I generally look at. OH, don't go by state taxes as a value. (If you are unfortunate enough to have this.) This can vary based on the state. Ours here is 80%. So we are taxed on 80% of the value of the vehicle. CW

Personally I don't like coincidence... If it was fine before you made these changes and now its not. Retrace your steps, I'll bet there is something you overlooked. CW

New dosent mean its working properly. I suspect the wires or at least the one on/to that cylinder. Swap back on one of your old ones and seee what happens. If nothing, do the same with the spark plug. CW

Just a little shout out ot all the men and women protecting this great country we have. its only because of people like them we can enjoy everything we have today. http://www.warriorsthefilm.com/Movie.html THANK YOU, CW

YUP, you are correct...IT SUX FOR BALL JOINTS. I used mine about 5-6 times for U Joints and LOVED IT!! Then I used it for a couple CA bushings, it worked pretty well there as well. BUT then i had a Ball joint job...WHAT A JOB, this thing just stretches, it lacks the strength to push. When I removed the tool it was twisted and stretched..... I got SUPER LUCKY... A buddie who frequents "Tag/Lawn" sales. Picked up a SNAP-ON ball joint tool and most of the adapters. He GAVE IT TO ME!!!! :brows: CW

Remove DS... Remove nut... Pop off yoke... Replace yoke... Replace and torque nut.. Replace DS, DONE. Probably an hour job/ two beer job!! :cheers: Good luck, CW

Thats correct, D44 and D30s will interchange. Your best bet is to just purchase a new yoke of UBolt style. Keep the strap as a trail spare. Image Not Found Image Not Found While you at it, buy a set or two of replacement UBolts. They are cheap and if you play in the rocks, you will want to have them on hand. Image Not Found CW

:cheers: Good job!! CW

No the front bolts in from both ends, but its not hard or difficult to understand. Slide under and you will see how she bolts together. Difference is the double cardan joint at the T case. If you bought the needle to grease the joint, there will likely be one in the double joint to grease the "ball" thats in the center of the two joints.