A-man930

i don't have a pic, but I got some weatherproof ones here at work (NAPA) and besides making your butt sweat ALOT they're great :D

sounds like a master to me. The fluid is bypassing the piston seal.

dayum... :drool:

Bwhahahaha! love it :D

x2 on a specialty spring shop, St. Louis Spring is where we send our customers. My buddy is gonna send them his stock springs for his '70 IH 1200 pickup to be re-arched because no one makes a replacement set off the shelf. They'll do basically anything you want as long as its safe and you know they've got the experience to do it right.

explain...

Correct :cheers:

Yea don't ask me, I just find it interesting they're advertising it this way. I'll call today and see what the deal is.

Per Valvoline: 1.Valvoline VR1: Contains 75% higher zinc than SM motor oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: 20w50, straight 50, 10w30, straight 30, straight 40, and straight 60. 2.Longer-Lasting Zinc/Phosphorus: Valvoline uses an advanced zinc/phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the motor oil where it protects the engine instead of poisoning the catalytic converter. Valvoline is the only brand offering this unique additive across its entire line of passenger car motor oils including SynPower -- the only synthetic offering this additive. Granted this is from a manufacturer's mouth. Worth investigating.

I was mainly interested in his explanation of viscosities and how they relate to a xW-xx labeled oil, as well as his explanation of synthetic v.s. conventional oils. But yes if you read the whole thing he definately blows off the whole notion that a "new" oil formulation could in fact be bad for an old engine (it sounds as if the article was written before the latest API rating...) The more I research this topic the more I seem to find, again, who knew there was so much to it!? :eek: I definately am sold on using synthetic oil in any vehicle I own, and now with a better understanding of motor oil viscosity ratings I am very hesitant to run anything rated 15Wxx or even 10Wxx for that matter. Unfortunately pretty much all diesel oils seem to be rated as such. This leads me to believe that an additive may really be the best way to go (so far...)

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.ph ... s_articles I just ingested this the other day. Who knew it could be so complicated!? Upon reading this article I'll be changing to the 5w30 or possibly a 0w30 of a different brand with a ZDDP additive. That being said I currently run Valvoline "Not Street Legal" 10w30 racing oil. This was suggested to me by the Valvoline product rep during a training session at work (NAPA). He says it has "higher levels" of zinc that the old hot rodders coming in to the store would be asking for. I just sold some to my buddy with an old IH 304 and will be carrying some in the store from now on. However, upon further investigation it seems that its lack of detergents is a problem for a street engine... here's the valvoline info pages. http://www.valvoline.com/products/consu ... otor-oil/9 http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/ So it seems SYN power, "not street legal," or VR1 racing all have adequate levels of zinc and phosphorus for our engines.

Doh! :doh:

I call first dibs on the bellhousing when you're selling it!

I have the same thing happen in my truck. And I also have an NP231 from a later model XJ. I have heard there are some issues with the splines from different years

I would start by plugging up everything coming out of the "proportioning valve" and see what things feel like. This will eliminate the calipers and wheel cylinders from the eqasion. Is this a new master cylinder?

The more hard line the better IMHO. It doesn't rot on the inside like rubber will eventually, it isn't pinched or cut easily, and most of the steel line available at the parts stores is coated so its not gonna rust away instantly or anything. Plus if you're replacing any part of the high pressure line from the pump you shouldn't use plain old fuel hose as its not rated for the kind of pressure fuel injection pumps put out. Dedicated fuel injection hose is the correct way to go and its easily twice as expensive. I'd just use sections of hose for the connection to the fuel sender and up to the rail and keep the rest steel. Of course hose is much easier so its your call :waving:

the part I'm most intrigued about is that center console... :idea:

This isn't a deal breaker for me or anything, I was just getting my hopes up on having a simple one piece deal that I could maybe even tackle myself. Now it means I'll have to enlist some help from someone who knows bodywork, but I'll still end up with new clean bedsides that aren't all hacked up and dented in from too many close encounters with trees :brows: No, definately not a deal breaker.

If you're comfortable doing brake lines you're well suited to handle fuel lines ;) With fuel you can see a leak without even starting the truck.

Is anyone else a little dissapointed with the taillight end of the piece? I guess I was expecting it to do that last curve inward right above the taillight :( Don't get me wrong I'm thrilled to have anything at all its just gonna be harder to get that part straight on mine now.

COUNT ME IN!! take a pair for sure edit. most recent list I saw: 1.)Cdn Glenwood 2.)pingpong (with bed sides if possible) 3.)88pioneer 4.)dakal 5.)Raoden83 6.)DJM/78 7.)possum 8.)Jpnjim (either style/bedside preferred) 9.)jimoshel 10.)89eliminator 11.)Cracker 12.)Cracker (set number two) 13.)Blue XJ 14.)RandysMJ (either style) 15.)Jeepcomj (One Set) 16.)exjay33 17.)A-man930

Any pics of the pieces or info on what's going on with the 6ft bed situation???

Here's another 6' bed guy interested :brows:

Might want to consider your throttle position sensor as the culprit.

Gonna revive this thread. After another wheelin trip I've decided against anyting that hurts what ground clearance I have, so drop brackets are out. I was looking around this thread viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19871 and I'm very interested in the Clayton radius arm kit. It looks tough as nails and dead simple, only thing is I don't know the upsides/downsides of a radius arm versus the others. This isn't the "y link" that everybody's been bashing in this thread is it?