A-man930

I understand. So that leaves the warning switch as the only reason not to just use a tee (I'll check on the legality of that here in Missouri.) The extra work isn't really a concern as I was planning on cleaning up the whole mess of brake lines I've created with the '96 booster/MC swap I did over the summer. My main concern revolved around wether there was any metering done by that block.

The supposedly is in refrence to the cutaways I've seen on here that don't have the port drilled completely through... Point taken. I guess the only reason I was toying with that idea is due to my worries/concers after seeing those nasty cutaways... what else is wrong with this thing??? Thanks for the imput BTW :D

:typing: Your not new here.........are you??? :rotfl2: :popcorn: no not new, just not being very observant I guess! :rotf:

After realizing the rather large amount of confusion surrounding our trucks' braking systems, I've decided to hold off on my own endeavor untill I have a few issues clarified. 1. The junction block up by the master cylinder... does it preform any proportioning functions? or is it basically a glorified Tee connection with a fancy safety feature? (the extra line going to the rear that supposedly bypasses the rear height valve in the case of front brake failure) 2. If this thing isn't any more than a junction, is there any reason I can't just replace the thing with some Tee junctions? I was planing one Tee to divert direct MC pressure to the two front calipers, and then plumbing an adjustable prop. valve into the rear line prior to diverting it to the wheel cylinders on each side. Am I missing anything here??

wow, I'm just now realizing how much of a can of worms this height sensing valve issue really is...

Well I definately could be wrong on that. My point was aren't there many many pickup trucks out there that didn't use this type of system?

I just purchased two 25' spools of poly coated 3/16" brake line, an adjustable prop. valve, and all the necessary tube nuts/tees to replace all my 19 year old potential truck-crashers. I don't believe any other light trucks have used a height sensing valve and they work just fine. I'll just set up my prop valve on a gravel road somewhere to get the brakes to lock up together. Plus when I'm wheeling I can re adjust them to nearly the same as the fronts. oh and I got a double flaring tool kit for $30... who loves employee discounts?! :D

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Mine has done this same kind of thing for quite a while. I mostly solved mine by re-adjusting the idle speed screw that someone had messed with, but it still does it to some degree...

I sent my pump module off to get rebuilt... I haven't installed it yet but it looks like it'll work great. http://fuelsender.com/services.html $130 or so, and its been cleaned, re-tubed and sealed, painted (with the correct stuff inside and out), had the wiring and level sending unit checked/repaired, and has a lifetime leak guarantee.

I'm not too worried about breaking the stud so much as I'm worried about trying to press one that is too big in diameter into the hub... Read Blue XJ's post, this is what I want to avoid.

update, more precise measurment is .597 to .598

I've got a set of Superior axleshafts and an Aussie locker for my 8.25 sitting under my bed right now, and the only thing holding me up is a little confusion on what I should do as far as wheel studs. I initially wanted to spend a couple extra bucks and get some super-duper-never-break-never-ever studs from ARP, but they didn't have anyting by application, so I called them. The dude on the tech line told me that he didn't have anything with the correct thread pitch, shoulder length, or knurl diameter available to purchase directly from him. The part that caught my interest was what he told me about the knurl diameter. I measure from .575" to .600" ID on the hubs of my new shafts. Stock replacement studs from NAPA are .615" knurl diameter. This ARP guy strongly suggested that I go no bigger than .605" knurl diameter so not to risk splitting the hub... I called Superior, he said beat in some new stockers... what do the ever so helpfull experienced dudes on here say?

I vote you go find an XJ 8.25. I got mine for a hundred bucks or so, muuuuch better than a 35

Well I'm in St. Louis so PM me if you're interested.

short or longbed?

Oh and my budget is to be determined... obviously the cheaper the better, but I don't want crap for a front suspension.

So the drop bracket trick only relocates the LCAs?

Ok, good info so far. I want to have a setup that performs well on trails but isn't dangerous on the street. I'm trying to get a feel for what would be the best use of my money. Any further shortarm lift would require replacement upper and lower units of very high quality (I'm impressed with JKS' product quality and features...). What exactly would short arms with drop brackets entail and what would be the pros/cons of this setup be? We'll go one at a time :typing:

Differences between short and longarms... obviously the stock suspension is short, and longarm conversions relocate the LCAs further back, but what are the pros and cons of each??? As I hear, longarms are softer-riding on the street... but thats really all I know. I want 6" of lift in the end when its all said and done. Sell me

I'm gonna go with these guys. http://www.fuelsender.com/services.html

btw, you should see all the trouble Exide (walmart's supplier) has been having with their batteries... Hence our NAPA's switched to East Penn (interstate)... I would steer clear.

Like anything else you have to know what you're looking for when you shop around. -If you want massive cranking amps to turn over your hardcore high compression big block, you get a redtop. -If you need a battery that will withstand multiple discharging (aka, deep cycling) from extended loads such as lights, winches, crawling on the starter, etc.. while still being an automotive battery that provides high cranking amperage, then you get a yellowtop. THE REDTOP IS NOT DESIGNED TO BE DEEP CYCLED. If you keep going through them, perhaps you should read what they're intended to do... regular lead-acid batteries work fine, but the AGM spiral cells utilized in Optimas and others (someone earlier was thinking of NAPA's Orbital series...) ARE superior in every way. Learn how a battery actually works and you'll see why.

I decided not to mess with going to full-H.O. I retained the Renix system by re-using the Renix intake manifold (thats where all the important stuff is.) If you want to go to a true H.O. system you'll be best off also switching to the H.O. dash harness, as trying to get a Renix dash to work with the H.O. engine bay is NOT simple...

Where did you get it? I'm looking to do the same thing