A-man930

I've been trying to find the factory rubber coil spring isolators and have only came up with generic replacements. Mine are rotted hardcore. Also I would like to find the dust shields for the front. I called the local Jeep dealer and he quoted me this: Isolators: PN 52000229 ~$19 each Dust shields: PN 52005477 (pass. side) and 52005476 (driver's) ~$29 each :eek: I crossed the PNs at work (NAPA) and came up dry, did the same at O'Reilly, no go. I would like to find these cheaper if at all possible... any suggestions?

Subscribing...

As the title states I have never taken on what most would consider a "project." The most I can claim is the 8.25" swap I did a couple of months ago and pulling the motor thats sitting in my garage right now. Here's my reason for posting: I've been without matching gear ratios since my axle swap, my Renix is going to blow chunks one of these days, and the other morning I developed a wonderful noise from my tranny/clutch (not sure which). So what I'm faced with is at least three seperate "repairs," or one huge undertaking where it gets all done at once. Here are some specific questions pertaining to each part. FRONT I was able to get a killer deal on a HP30 out of an MJ with the CAD and everything (just to keep things as simple as possible). My concern is that it has a moderate surface rust problem and I don't want my spring perches rotting off in a year (plust I'm kinda anal about rust prevention). My Dad thinks its a horrorable idea to sandblast it, I don't think so because I'll be replacing the outer U-joints and hubs anyways and I figured I could cover up everything else well enough to prevent sand from eating the guts alive. Should I really be worried? I mean, don't front ends get plenty of dirt in them anyways? AX-15 We drained the oil on it and the only thing we saw was a tiny little particle of syncro ring, I was kinda hoping for more convincing results :roll: We weren't able to see or feel any parts tumbling around in the bellhousing and you can't see crap from the top of the case (when the shifter's out). What this leaves me with is I'm probably going to have to take this thing out and open it up to really see what the issue is. I've been scarred by my only attempt at separating a transmission from a 4.0 (ended up taking the whole drivetrain out and I had to grind off the head of one measly bolt to get them apart :headpop: ) Are you supposed to be able to remove the transmission from the truck without also removing the engine? ENGINE Finally, I've had this motor sitting in my garage since December and I would really like to have it in my truck before this winter! If it takes major moving/positioning of the motor to get the trans out I'll be majorly tempted to go ahead and tackle swaping that out as well... Stupid idea? Good idea? Good idea only if you've got lots of time/patience/and money? Thanks for the help guys, love this site! Alan

I've heard that YJ front brake hoses offer an extra couple of inches over MJ ones, and according to the books at work they do. My question is in regards to the connections on both sides... We didn't have any in stock for me to compare, but the pictures show them to be different. Anyone done this upgrade? and if there are any other factory hoses that will work let me know, I get a phat discount :brows:

Turned out that the problem was a bad o2 sensor, she runs just as before... nice cheap fix (except for the stupid diagonstic fee :mad: )

Huh? All the links are for XJ/MJs

Here's the mounts I've found so far http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... Path=6_115 http://www.browndogoffroad.com/index.as ... tegory=140 the ones from Browndog are advertised to give 1" of lift, but I don't know if they're poly... the MORE ones are factory height and are that fancy rubber stuff. What would I have to do to get a lift out of a factory height mount? Aren't they secured to the body with bolts welded to the body? Edit: What about these? http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=3477

Besides the fan shroud, are there any issues to consider with raising the motor about an inch??

interested as well

Well I went ahead and took it to a shop and they said I had an O2 sensor reading over 1 volt (something was shorting out??) which makes the computer go nuts regardless wether its in open or closed loop evidently. I'm going to go ahead and try it and see what happens. As for the fuel pressure slowly dropping, wouldn't that affect the whole time the truck is running? Remember, this is only happening intermittently... not all the time. and yes wakka_round, you're describing the same thing... which makes me hesitant to start replacing stuff

Well I wasn't necessarily planning on doing a belly-tuck, but that may be the end result! I'm just not sure if I'll be able to keep the stock height with the crossmember design I have in mind. Now if I were to raise it about an inch would I have to raise the motor as well? I have a shortbed, and I'm only planning a 5.5" lift in the end.

it does it sometimes as soon as it settles into an idle, open or closed loop.

I don't have much time, but in short my engine will start fine, but will shortly go into an irradic idle (sometimes down to 200rmp or so) and will occasionally kill itself. I can feel it while in gear as well. So far I'm thinking its spark related... it seems like i'm losing cylinders. Common issues? Guesses?

Does it die immeditately? or does it slowly drop down to nothing and finally die?

I thought of the driveshaft angle... figured I had a little room to spare, but I didn't think of the shifter linkage :wall:

I'm in the process of designing a custom transmission crossmember and I've been wondering exactly how critical it is to keep the mounted height at stock... I know I can get a shorter mount (go from 3" to 1.5") and that may take care of it, but I want to know if it's a big deal to have the whole assembly a little higher than stock... like an inch or so.

Well I'm hearing two different stories now... TNT, did you notice a drop off in torque and/or gas mileage with the 2.5" mandrel-bent system? What series flowmaster did you use?

Sweet. I'll grab a couple of them soon. Any recomendations on which intake/exhaust manifold gasket to get?

I'm wondering as well... do I spend the money and get a mandrel-bent 2.25" or a do a cheap non-mandrel 2.5" or it does it matter at all? I know there will be a slight torque drop off with less backpressure, but I'm not really worried about it. I will say that I'm all but certian that I'll go with putting the exit between the spring and frame rail on the pass. side... nice and out of the way :D

As clean as that particular one is, I'd rather keep the stock bed and make a nice slider bumper... our beds are all but useless as-is, lol.

I'll be replacing a few gaskets on my new motor before its installed. This is what I'm gathering... rear main: Felpro double-lipped valve cover: cork with sealant Oil pan: one piece rubber (95 and up iirc) And has anyone tried that gasket maker in those cheese-wiz cans? I saw them at work...

I was planning on having the exit on the rr above the leaf pack as well... nice and out of the way.

^^ditto

I was able to get about 4 intake bolts significantly tighter and the idle has dropped to about 1450. I'm assuming that there's either another vaccum leak somewhere or the intake still isn't sealed up all the way. Either way its much less anoying. As far as my question as to why it doesn't idle high at start-up I think I've figured it out. At start-up the computer is in open loop mode correct? (preset fuel and spark tables, no imput from the MAP, TPS, O2, etc...) Once everyting's warmed up the MAP detects the vaccum leak (same result as having the throttle open) and the computer adjusts the fuel accordingly. I guess the TPS imput is ignored over the MAP. Does this sound in the ballpark?

No help?