A-man930

Well, as you can probably tell this was my virgin experience with a SFA setup... Where should I look for a different track bar since I'm lifted about. 4"???

You know, now that I think about it, I ended up detaching it at the axle... (sooo much easier) The limiting factor became the brake lines. It was a while ago, and I was taking out 3" lift springs, not stockers.

I had a hard time getting the track bar off the frame, you need a puller iirc... it was a HUGE pain with the trackbar attached, I had to rent a set of compressors.

So what is this common failure/problem with MJ brake systems??? I've experienced some funk with everything since I removed the right front calliper... do our brakes like to act up?

How big a tire are you guys squeezing under there? My spare is a 31x10.50 and it almost rests up against the exhaust...

I've always wondered if you could get a truck box to work with one of these roll bars... It would probably have to be a custom one, has anyone seen this? More pics!

I need to do this!

I need to do this!

was anyone able to get the clips back on? I just ditched them and used silicone (on the bottom one anyways...)

LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW: Your builds totally rock by the way... why a turbo? Because turbos are better :D Much more tuning flexibility, no paracytic loss to get boost, and it will spool right where I want it to when sized correctly. Besides, I've wanted to do a turbo something for a long time now, and the 4.0 would sport a hairdryer quite well. I will definately need lots of advice on my build as it progresses, you will hear from me, lol.

I would not be able to answer that for you, I'm not really sure. I'm not really sure what exactly was done to the post '96 castings other than the addition of a stud girdle... Anyone? The original reason I asked if using a renix-era casting would be better was because of there already being provisoins for a knock sensor machined into the block. After reading a bit more I don't think I'll be using one regardless, now I'm making sure there isn't some big reason to avoid the renix block, as I'll have one lying around already.

I have both, but I wish I had a factory service manual. I hear they rock, but I've had no experience with one.

Oh no doubt it will be pricey... but it does seem as if it will work.

I realize this... With pistons that are meant for FI... http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... catId=7569 Among other things. Here's a build thread that I've been following: http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=614289

After reading around for a bit, I've stumbled on some information regarding the non-HO 4.0L motors, that I previously hadn't seen. I had automatically assumed that the HO was a better choice for my intentions, but as it turns out, maybe not. First off, I will need a quick replacement for my current engine. Blow-by is bad, and I think I can hear the mains rattling at anything above 2 grand... I was looking for a HO to swap in, as I hear that it is a fairly easy transition from Renix to HO. I also intended to have the replacement motor's shortblock built turbo-ready stroker (although funds may not permit this quite yet :brickwall: ) Now comes the dilemma, I'm hearing that the pre-HO (Renix) 4.0 block is a better choice for strokers, and the only real advantage of the HO is the head/intake/exhaust/cam combo, which is interchangeable with any 4.0 or 4.2 anyways. This is supposedly because the Renix system utilizes a knock sensor (and since strokers like to ping...) My question now becomes: are there any issues/concerns that I should consider if I chose to use a Renix block for my turbo/stroker build? I would still have a variety of head castings/intakes/etc. to choose from, have the added insurance of a KS, and have one sitting in the garage ready to go... what to do!?

After takin' her out several times over the break, I've decided that putting the flares back on would really only give me something else to worry about breaking... Whiteshark, what did you put in place of the flares? I've seen that little black strip on cut fenders before, and I think it adds just enough of a "finished" look for me. Hopefully within the month I'll be tackling the rears :D

Well I realize there isn't alot of MJ specific stuff out there, but where do you guys like to get your parts?

Are there any suppliers that you guys swear by? I ordered my coil spacers from 4wd Hardware and they included their latest catalogue in the shipment, but it was all JK/TJ/YJ/CJ parts. I realize many of these are interchangable with XJ/MJ stuff, but it would be nice to have a dedicated XJ/MJ selection. I'm talking suspension, drivetrain, body, accesories... the whole bit. Who do I go to?

Thanks! Just upgraded to 32s. I went with some 3/4" poly spacers from 4wd hardware. If I'd have known energy suspension provided new isolators I'd have gone that route.

Well, I bit the bullet and trimmed 1.25" all the way around... it turned out way better than I expected 8)

Well, seems as if nobody carries the stock replacement isolators, so I had to settle with re-using my partially rotted-out ones :headpop: It turned out well I think. 3/4" spacers and Chevy drop shackles (at the 1" selection) Note that I have 200lbs of sand in the bed.

Question... how the crap would you not notice if the caliper was installed upside down?

Yea buddy! Gimmie some more pictures of that!

simple cut, relocate, and weld? If so then I'll go for it.

I've got a line on a D35 out of a YJ (I need a quick replacement, mine's gonna blow). I've been told that it won't fit... comments?