Jump to content

A-man930

Members
  • Posts

    1506
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by A-man930

  1. While I understand your general thought here, I think you're overdoing it. With a properly maintained cooling system and good electrical grounds, you really shouldn't have to change out a heater core ever again. What's the alternative anyways? Electric heat? Some would call that pissing in the wind because you're just going to overwork your vehicle's charging system and it won't produce as much heat. Engine coolant flow through the heater core is pretty well like a free lunch; the coolant gets hot anyways, might as well put it to some use.
  2. This is also interesting: https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-7-4173-Condenser-Cherokee/dp/B000C7QC4O
  3. Wait a minute, NAPA shows the 91-96 XJ (also MJ 90-92) evaporator having the tube-nut fittings for an expansion valve and being plate/fin! Also, 93+ will be optimized for R134a... perhaps that's my problem with the whole system in general. Also found this discussion helpful: https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1122182 This vendor might be useful as well: https://jeepair.com/
  4. Interestingly, the late-model XJ is an orifice tube system vs. the early one using an expansion valve; this is the "filter" 75sv1 mentioned and it changes the system fairly significantly. The late model is not only a plate/fin design, it also uses spring lock connections instead of tube nuts - this will make it impossible to attach my expansion valve... so is part of this "some modification" game converting to an orifice tube system entirely?? VS the early design:
  5. Here's Limey's posts about his box refurb:
  6. Can't speak for any other years, but my temp blend door is cable-actuated. My evaporator is a replacement I got from NAPA over 10 years ago. At that time most all of their A/C parts were sourced from 4 seasons I did struggle to get acceptable performance from the A/C back in the day but I never was able to determine exactly why. My biggest suspicion was a problem within the box because PLENTY of condensate would come out the drain but the discharge air was only so-so.
  7. Well I already have a replacement evaporator in there that is different than the factory one...
  8. How did you clean it out? Wire brush? Soap and water? Solvents? The OE adhesive-backed stuff seems like it'll be a pain to remove. I notice the metal parts inside have a fair amount of surface rust going on... really tempting to get that all painted, but that would require drilling out rivets and generally talking it all further apart... How far did you take it?
  9. I took this box apart two or three years ago and I'm now ready to begin clean up, repair, and reassembly. Before I begin, has anyone on here gone through this process? If so, is there any advice you could share? I'm not even sure exactly what I'm asking for, but I have a bad habit of tearing deep into things just to later find out somebody has already figured out a better way to do something. I have a plan working to remake the large foam seals.
  10. Wife and I have recently began discussing doing the Alcan trip in our Jeeps some day but man, it's a loooong way from St. Louis!! Keep us posted.
  11. Made up and installed some hold-downs for JK floor mats. These should help keep my heels from wearing through whatever I coat the floor with.
  12. 2000 Dakota. I ditched all the Dakota slider/mounting and instead adapted to the stock MJ ones. The center console mounting was challenging to get tucked low enough to the trans tunnel; made mounting from scratch. I'll grab some pictures next it's off.
  13. I've always been annoyed at how things tucked behind the seats would always roll/fall forward from the slope of the floor; I've been wanting a flat area for an ammo box or some small tool box for a very long time. I think these will do!
  14. Never thought I'd see someone swap IN a TTB front suspension. Lol What's it from? A Ranger?
  15. Make sure your blower motor isn't stuck with trash or something. If it's not allowed to spin to it's full speed it will demand excessive current
  16. Chassis-side track bar mount is going to be reconfigured, but will attach onto the outboard frame plate. I'm thinking the welded-in steering box spacer/brace and the modified BWE comp mount should be more than sufficient to tie up the front of the chassis (link). Though I suppose I could look into it some more...
  17. The OE suspension brackets are all cut out; what a satisfying feeling! Next step is to finally weld in the floors! It turns out my expectations for fit & finish were a little high; my decision to butt-weld my hybrid pre-made/homebrew pans into place no doubt made this a whole lot messier and more difficult. Oh well.
  18. I had not intended on doing all this bracing, but I just know I'd be kicking myself later for not taking the opportunity; I only intend on having it apart like this ONCE.
×
×
  • Create New...