Eagle

As a reference, a fairly typical 31x10.50 is 10-1/2 inches wide (at the sidewalls, not the tread width) and about 30.5 inches in diameter. A 265/75-15 would be 10.4 inches wide and 30.65 inches in diameter.

SporTruck was the model. It was the designation for the base configuration around 1988.

I also welded a washer, to the front only. But my friend works in a VW dealership and at the time VW was issuing some kind of retrofit kit that included some 10mm bolts and VERY thick, oversized washers. Apparently not all the cars needed the bolts and washers, and my friend had a bag full of them. So we grabbed one of the washers and welded it in place. I'm fairly certain it was hardened as well as being extra thick and extra large diameter.

Wouldn't a radiator for a 4-banger with A/C be at least a 2-row core? Yeah -- Auto Parts warehouse lists 2-core radiators for the '86 4-banger. Scroll down: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?Ntt=Radiator

It is impossible to make them not leak, short of sealing them with silicone. I paid EXTRA to get them when I bought my '88 Cherokee new. The vents leaked from the day I took delivery. The factory service rep cheerfully informed me that the factory had a fix. "And what might that be?" "We take them out and replace them with fixed glass," he said. I can't reproduce what I told him because this is a family-friendly site. The problem is not deterioration. The problem is that the gasket was not molded with a step at the point where the bottom track stops and it transitions to just glass. There will always be a little gap there, and that's where the water gets in. Silicone is your friend.

Trac-Lok was always an option from the factory, regardless of which axle you got.

Lowe's sells sheets of steel that are about ideal for this. I used the heavier of what they offer, but I can't remember if they offer 16-ga and 20-ga, or 18-ga and 22-ga. Fuzzy memory tells me it's the latter, which would mean that my patch panels were 18-gauge, and they seemed plenty heavy enough.

That may be part of the issue, but he's going from an XJ setup, that had separate, amber lights for turn signals, to an MJ style that blinks the brake lights for turns. The old/early XJ Wagoneers also did NOT use dedicated amber turns, and there was an entire tail end sub harness that was different in the XJ Wagoneers than what was in the XJ Cherokees. The simplest solution now would be to get a "logic box" such as what's used to run standard, small trailer (4-wire) lighting off an XJ. Connect the logic box to the chassis harness per the instructions, and run your LED units off the output (trailer) side of the logic box.

Dunno if they sell it at Lowe's and Home Depot, but HVAC installers insulate sheet metal ducts with a somewhat thin, foil-faced fiberglass insulation. There are two thicknesses, representing two levels of insulation value. Maybe the thinner stuff laid on the floor and then covered with indoor.outdoor carpet would do the job for you. Yeah, here ya go: http://www.lowes.com/pd_179375-1410-SP5 ... facetInfo=

Eagle -- "Older than dirt." At your service, Sir.

:huh???: If that's a reference to my taking issue with a couple of responses, I don't think I'm being sanctimonious. I didn't ask for advice; I asked for a part. It's not only this forum, it seems to be almost standard on most Internet forums. Someone posts up a very specific request, saying, "I have identified a specific need for ___." And immediately 17 gazillion people chime in, "I don't know where you can find a ___ but what you really need is ***." Frankly, I think such behavior is just plain rude. It isn't responsive to the question, and it serves no purpose. Why waste bandwidth offering an answer that is unrelated to the question? If you want sanctimonious, IMHO the epitome of being sanctimonious is assuming that you know what someone you've never met and know very little about needs better than he does. [/rant]

I would prefer a Trac-Lok, but the fact is when it's slippery there isn't enough traction for a Trac-Lok to UNlock, so it might as well be a locker. Gents, I know you mean to be helpful, but I'm 67 years old and I've been driving in snow for longer than most of you have been alive. I know how to do it, and weight and tires are NOT the answer. I need a traction device ... I just don't want to shell out $400 for a new diff to drop into a $100 truck.

Looking for a Trac-Lok unit (preferably), or maybe a Lockright or Aussie Locker to fit an '86 MJ Dana 35. Truck is 2WD and I won't have time to convert to 4WD before winter. Looking for cheap traction. Whaddaya got?

The '85 XJ 2.5L had a carburetor, but that doesn't affect the gauges. Go for it.

Yep.

:agree: This. Why pump more of the crappy old stuff through the system? Siphone the old gunk out of the reservoir, refill with new joy juice, and save a lot of bleeding. But I can't take it all out right? Because I'm not supposed to let it go dry, right? :dunce: Yes, you can take it all out. A turkey baster will never suck fluid up out of the orifices in the bottom, all you're doing is emptying out the cruddy old fluid that you would be pushing through the lines to dump anyway. Suck the reservoirs as dry as you can get them, wipe up the gunky residue with a clean rag, then fill with clean brake fluid and bleed normally. Once you start bleeding clean fluid through the lines, THEN it's important not to let it go dry or you'll be letting air into the system.

:agree: This. Why pump more of the crappy old stuff through the system? Siphone the old gunk out of the reservoir, refill with new joy juice, and save a lot of bleeding.

Don't forget a relay and a fuse. I don't recall the fuse rating on the old ones, but the aux fan on my wife's 2000 XJ locked up and blew the fuse. The fuse for that sucker is a 40-amp fuse ...

It has nothing to do with the transmission. It has to do with the full-time transfer case. Putting it in neutral disconnects the transmission from the transfer case, but it doesn't disconnect the front drive shaft from the rear drive shaft. They remain connected to the internal coupling.

Yes, there is. If the two pieces aren't at least similar in thickness, you don't get penetration on the thick piece without burning through the thin piece.

IIRC the aux fan is controlled by a standard relay that's attached to the inside of the driver's side fender, either between the air box and the inner fender or maybe just behind it. When I bought my '88 MJ the aux fan didn't work. When I finally got to checking that relay, the terminals were so badly corroded that they just snapped off. I had to cut off the old plug, solder on five standard spade terminals onto the wires, and connect them individually to a new relay.

Take anything that's not rusted beyond recognition or welded solidly to the unibody. Steel wheels are able to take more punishment off-road, but they weigh more. I used to run steel by choice, but with a bad back I'm finding the weight a severe drawback, so I'm putting everything on alloys now.

I bought my '88 Cherokee new. About six months after I bought it, the dealership was sold and the new owners immediately laid off my racing buddy, who had worked there his entire life, from an oil change monkey at the age of 16 all the way up to service manager. So I started having service done at a different dealership (that was actually a bit closer to home). At one point, they talked me into having a TSB job done (not a recall, so I paid for it) to cut out the C101 connector on the firewall and hard-connect each pair of wires. They claimed this would improve fuel economy, improve performance, save me money, have beautiful women begging me for dates ... just about anything they could think of, this TSB was supposed to fix. All lies, of course, but ... One of the things they said it would fix was a syndrome chronic to the Renix XJs and MJs called "early morning drive-off stall." What you describe sounds exactly like that. The engine starts right up in the morning, idles fine in the driveway ... and stalls (ONCE) when you start to drive. Start it up again, and it's fine for the rest of the day. The next day ... rinse and repeat. Needless to say, the $500 TSB to remove the C101 connector did NOT cure the "early morning drive-off stall," and when I later confronted the service manager about it he flat out denied that he had ever said that. If that's what you have ... there is no real fix for it. It either goes away on its own ... or it doesn't.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22309&p=229974&hilit=hubs+rotors+knuckles#p229974 Scroll down to my post -- about the sixth reply in the thread

I read those codes off the keys I've been using to drive my '88 Cherokee for 23 years. I had copies made when I bought the Cherokee new and I put the originals away so I would always have a fresh template for making duplicates. Those ARE the numbers. If a B46 didn't work, you need to find someone who knows how to use a key cutting machine.