Eagle

The BEST way (and fast) would be to send it out and have it blasted with baking soda. It will take off the old paint, but it won't damage the metal. It won't even damage the glass. A friend had his pride-and-joy 1949 Hudson coupe stripped to bare metal with a baking soda blast and it was beautiful. You can imagine what 60-year old windshield glass probably looked like, right? It came back from the blaster looking like new glass.

I don't know if the numbers translate between brands, but in Cole (National Key) the correct blanks are RA3 for the doors and B46 for the ignition.

Spacers also decrease caster angle, and that is often a contributing factor in causing death wobble. Get an alignment. Have your tires balanced.

On an '87 MJ you don't have a Check Engine light.

He has a 2.5L. It is NOT pressurized. Move it anywhere you want, and use whatever size will fit.

Bleeding the brakes won't help if the rear brakes are not adjusted. Replacing the steering box is not difficult, but usually isn't necessary. Have you verified that the looseness you think you perceive in the steering is actually in the steering box? For me, that's the LAST thing I would consider -- and I would try adjusting it before I'd replace it. Checking the steering box for looseness is easy. Park on level ground with the wheels straight ahead. Turn off the engine, but leave the key in the OFF position, not the LOCKED position. Stand outside the vehicle and reach in through the window or open door and gently try to turn the wheel back and forth. How much free play is there? (Free play) is the amount of movement between any movement of the tires. You're looking for how much you can move the steering wheel with NO movement of the tires.)

Make sure it's a Cherokee Dana 44, not a GRAND Cherokee Dana 44.

What part of New York are you in?

I ran 31x10.50s, with the basic 4-inch lift that the Trailmaster kit provided. I would agree, if you add another couple of inches of lift and then larger tires, the brackets will be riding 3+ inches higher off the ground than my rig. That would do a lot to reduce the "rock magnet" factor.

I'm not sure what's going on from your post -- you are aware that the factory bumper mounting brackets bolt to the frame rails, right? And that aftermarket bumpers typically require removing the factory brackets and bolting the new bumper to the frame using the same mounting points. How did you get the old bumper off if you didn't remove the factory mounting brackets? Universal brackets are available from Westin (Fey): http://westin.iwebcat.com/v5/Members/lo ... nting+Kit&

Hum? ROAR is more like it. I tried them once -- unbearable.

Tire balance. TIRE BALANCE TIRE BALANCE TIRE BALANCE

My '88 MJ had a set of Trailmaster drop brackets installed when I bought it. They are very good quality (if still available?), and they did what they were intended to do -- provide 4 inches of lift while maintaining stock control arm geometry. Remember, though, that any lift (even with drop brackets) will pull the axle to the driver's side, so you still need an adjustable track bar. I wheeled my '88 all over New England and at Paragon with the brackets. What I found was that they were "rock magnets." They are hanging down 4 inches and they are RIGHT behind the front tires. Roll over an obstacle, and the chassis comes down on the brackets. I ultimately removed them and I was much happier without them -- and I still am. A friend had them in his Cherokee. He ripped one out of the frame pocket up at the Mohawk Trail in Massachusetts, and had to have a repair welded in place before he could drive the vehicle home. If all you want is 4 inches of lift for street cruising, they're fine. That's what they are for, IMHO.

Here you go. As when I posted this previously, this is from a draft of a book I started. This material IS copyrighted, by me, and by posting it here I do NOT grant anyone permission to reproduce it anywhere else. Please respect that.

Pull the bulb. It doesn't always come on a 2K -- it's controlled by a mix of vehicle speed, engine RPM and load (engine vacuum). I've seen mine tell me to upshift from 4th to 5th going UPHILL at 35 MPH. Brain-dead piece of enviro-crap.

Yes, but if the CPS was bad it probably wouldn't start by rolling it and dumping the clutch. Otherwise, the CPS would have been my first guess.

There was no "HD" for the manual transmission. 1989 was a mid-year change from the Peugeot BA10/5 to the AX-15. Early 89's got the Pukegoat, late 89s got the AX-15. Just have to crawl under and see which it is.

Call 877-627-1399. Get to the parts department and ask to speak with Todd. Tell him you're from Harwood's Comanche Club forum and you need an obsolete part. Bradshaw Jeep has been a dealer since when they sold Hudsons, then segued right into AMC and then Jeep. Todd is the guru when seeking older Jeep (and AMC) parts. If it exists, he can probably hook you up.

Quick test of gauge and wiring: Turn on ignition. You can start the engine, just stay clear of the fan and exhaust manifold. The engine does not have to be running, but the gauges must be energized (i.e. don't turn key to "Accessory"). Observe where needle sits. According to you, it should be on cold. Remove the wire from the top of the sender. Do NOT touch it to anything -- isolate it, or you hold it while an assistant reads the gauge. Where is the needle? Now take a probe (or a nail, or screw, or length of stiff wire) and ground the wire directly to the engine (block or head, so big hunk of clean metal). The sender resistance range is 0 - 88 ohms. With the wire removed from the sender, there is no circuit. This is equivalent to infinite resistance. The needle should peg on the hot side. When you ground the wire, the resistance should be close to zero. The needle should be all the way down to the cold side of the scale. If not ... the gauge or the wire to the gauge has a problem.

Rancho has a full-length (almost) AAL for the MJ and XJ that gives about 1-1/2" in the MJ.

All you need is a "heavy duty" or electronic flasher. If it says it'll work with a trailer, that's what you need.

Any suggestions for a spring that might yield me ~~2". Staying SUA. Rancho AAL #RS60913

Well ... except that an XJ/MJ D30 is a high pinion and a ZJ is a low pinion. Which really means that an XJ axle should work better in a ZJ than a ZJ axle ... Agreed.

Check caster angle

You can fit 31s with NO lift, if you use OEM Jeep rims. A stock 215/75 or 225/75 tire is about 29" diameter, so just going to 31s will automatically give you an inch of extra ground clearance.