Eagle

Loosen the three bolts on the top hinge and two of the three on the bottom, then push the top of the door inward, then retighten.

5th gear ratio for the BA 10/5 is actually 0.72:1. In the original version of the spreadsheet I can enter the correct overdrive ratio. For the version I posted, I used 0.75:1 because that's what the AW4 uses and what most owners seem to have. The difference is very minor.

Be aware that changing from 3.07 to 4.10 will overshoot big time with 33" tires. 36" would be closer. Speedo will be off, 1st gear will be very short and cruising rpm doing 70 on the highway will be higher (but not unacceptably so). 3.73 may be a better fit, although possibly more difficult to find. Gotta disagree. My '88 MJ had 31" tires and 3.73 gears. The overall final drive ratio (speed vs. RPM) was exactly the same as my wife's stock 2000 XJ with automatic and stock tires. The 3.73 gears were originally purchased to go with 30" tires in the '88 XJ, but the MJ came along before the gears got installed, so they went into the MJ 'cause I had 'em. 4.10s are actually an ideal ratio with 31" tires, and okay for 33" tires. 70 MPH with stock tires and 3.07 gears is 1961 RPM in 5th gear. 70 MPH with stock tires and 3.54 gears is 2261 RPM in overdrive. 70 MPH with 31" tires and 4.10 gears is 2440 RPM in 5th gear. 70 MPH with 33" tires and 4.10 gears is 2292 RPM in 5th gear -- that's so close to a stock vehicle with automatic that you'd never see or feel the difference when driving.

Correct. The MJ front "thingie" is a distribution block and it also has the slider to actuate the brake warning light. It is NOT a proportioning valve. Plug the outlet on the front bottom. That was the emergency bypass for the rear height sensing valve. The outlet from the "nose" is the normal feed to the rear brakes. Run a line from that to your new proportioning valve, then from the new proportioning valve directly to the flex hose at the rear axle.

How did you make your flares?

Pete has a photo of how to fix that ...

As noted, you do NOT need an XJ proportioning valve if you have the Jegs. Which port of the MJ distribution block did you plug? The one you need to plug is the large one toward the front on the BOTTOM of the metering block. The one you retain is the port in the "nose" of the metering block.

First -- the FSM states that the flywheel canNOT be resurfaced. If it needs to be resurfaced, you need to buy a new one. Clutch chatter often results when a driver slips the clutch too much and burns hard spots into the surface. Then, when a new clutch is installed, the surface is uneven in both contact patch and hardness, which causes the chatter. The only fix is a new flywheel.

You can also buy a vacuum (suction) bleeder. JC Whitney sells them, and I think I've seen them more recently in Auto Zone. IIRC the name is MityMite or something like that. Yeah - http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp

Nothing is beyond hope. I have a friend from the early days of NAXJA-NAC who started off with an '86 XJ with the 2.8L V6. He wanted to convert to a 4.0L and was deterred by the firewall issue. The lads at the local (to him) used Jeep emporium found an '88 or '89 4.0L donor vehicle, sliced both vehicles in half somewhere just behind the A pillar, then welded the entire 4.0L front "clip" onto the original back half. You can't tell where it was cut and welded.

Driving lights are different from fog lights, and both are different from "auxiliary" (or "off-road") lights. Fog lights legally canNOT operate with the high beams. Driving lights by law MUST operate ONLY with the high beams. And off-road lights aren't supposed to be used on the streets at all -- my state and several others require them to be covered when driving on public roads, but it's rarely enforced.

Those are what you want, and IMHO that's a great price. I think I paid $60 each for a pair (NIB) several years ago.

I believe that's also illegal under Federal law. I know NO new vehicles with factory fogs are wired with the fogs on when the high beams are on. And it's so easy to wire them the legal way I don't know why people do it any other way.

I explained why in the second post in this thread. You have to trip the shuttle valve in order to open the port to the bypass line to the rear wheels. Just plug it. The thread is 1/2" SAE (fine). The shortest bolt I could find with that thread was 1" -- I cut it down until the head almost contacted the valve body when the bolt bottomed out, then I put an O-ring on it, added a "dollop" of RTV to ensure a good seal, let the RTV set up and screwed it in.

No, they did not all come with the wiring. Back when my '88 XJ was new I inquired and "in the day" the wiring harness for the fog lights was available through the dealer as a separate part -- for an obscene price.

Two questions: 1. Why did you turn on the ignition? 2. Why did you prop the brake peddle down with a jack handle? It doesn't sound like you understand the reason for the special bleeding procedure. There's an emergency by-pass circuit to the rear brakes so that if the front brakes fail you can have full pressure to the rear rather than going through the height-sensing proportioning valve. Normally, the slider in the front junction block has that emergency circuit blocked off. The purpose of opening a front bleeder is to simulate a front brake failure and get the slider to move, opening the by-pass circuit so it can be bled. Holding the brake peddle down doesn't accomplish anything. What needs to be done is to open the front bleeder, then stomp on the brake peddle to force the slider to slide. If the brake warning light doesn't come on, you didn't stomp hard enough. And the only reason for turning on the ignition would be to see if the warning light comes on.

Wheel balance would be my guess. Especially if the DW is now kicking in at 55 MPH. Dunno why, but 55 seems to be the magic threshold for when out-of-balance tires start to show the effects.

Rancho sells the same AAL kit for both the XJ and MJ. Their catalog lists it as 2-1/2" for both vehicles -- which isn't possible. Several years ago I called Rancho and spoke with one of their engineers. She went off and spoke with another engineer, then came back and told me that the catalog was a mis-print. It should be 2-1/2" in the XJ and 1-1/2" in the MJ. So you can use an XJ full-length AAL in an MJ, but expect to lose at least an inch off the advertised lift. Obviously, you can also use a short AAL in an MJ, but they ride horribly and can weaken or break the springs.

MJ springs measure 5 inches longer, eye-to-eye, than XJ springs. You can cut the eyes off an XJ main leaf and use it as an add-a-leaf. Don't know how much lift you might get.

The Mopar Performance catalog perches are about the best you can get and MUCH less money than anything else ... but they are also cut for a 3" axle tube. I don't think that's a problem -- looks to me like you can easily do a little grinding to fit for a smaller tube, and fill in the gap at the ends with weld material.

It depends. First off, to keep it simple you do NOT want to look for a swap to an HO. That involves the entire under-hood electrical system, the ECU (computer), different injection, different manifolds -- virtually everything. The 1987 thru 1990 4.0L is a good, solid engine so there's no reason to do anything other than just replace the engine. If you buy a commercial rebuilt engine, such as a Jasper, you're easily looking at $2500 or more. However, if you find a running junkyard engine, you might get the engine for a couple of hundred dollars, and then pay for the labor to swap it in. You don't "jack up" anything to do an engine swap in these trucks. You remove the hood, the grille and the radiator, and slide the old engine out to the front. The "new" engine goes in the same way.

Have your tires balanced.

What year? If you have an '87, you probably don't have one.

Polarity is easy with an aftermarket gauge. If it reads backwards, switch the wires on the terminals.

Death wobble is wearing your tires? HOW? You can't drive a vehicle that has death wobble -- it can't be done. If/when death wobble strikes, the ONLY thing you can do is stop the vehicle. If you can't drive the vehicle, the tires can't wear. Are you talking about a different issue and calling it death wobble?