Eagle

Just cut it at the back of the cab, and fabricate a 'Y' and a tongue. Open the differential, gut the spider gears and ring gear, and close it up again.

Yes, the YJ Wranglers had high pinion Dana 30s in front. But ... they are leaf sprung. Lots of fabrication, no direct bolt-in.

Different bolt circle, for starters, I believe.

MAP sensor

Mystery. Just for giggles -- if you turn on just the taillights -- it's the lower brightness filament that comes on, on both sides? And withOUT the taillights on, if you operate the turns, brakes or 4-ways, it's the brighter filament that comes on? Oh ... and I'm asking you to confirm this for the truck, too, as well as on the trailer. Also, does it act funny both with and without the trailer connected to the harness?

Bad ground, or bad sockets. Replace the sockets. The chain auto parts places have a replacement socket on the HELP! pegboard that fits perfectly, although the application it's listed for is a Ford. Take an old socket with you to match it up.

REALLY bad idea, IMHO. Difficult to access. Makes the vehicle more top-heavy, which is NOT a plus when taking a lifted vehicle across a side slope traverse. Plus a 33" or larger tire is heavy enough to be a major PITA to lift up there or take down.

I don't think they were welded. I think they were nut-serts. (Expansion sleeves) The ones on my '88 just spin, which means eventually I'm going to have to find a way to get up there and grind them off.

The '86 nose would have worked. You might have needed some minor adjustments. 87 and newer would be better. Just be aware that they changed the grille in either 90 or 91 to incorporate the trim strip above the grille and headlights into the grille and headlight bezels. On the early ones that trim strip is a separate part. You can't mix the early header with the later grille, or the opposite.

Could be the fan itself. And it could be the resistor pack. Slide the control slider to any of the "ON" positions (heat, bi-level, anything but[/i] "OFF"). Turn the fan switch to the highest speed. If the fan runs on high speed but not at the lower speeds, you most likely need a resistor pack.

The standard, flat 4-wire connector is for trailers that use a combined, dual filament stop/tail light bulb. The four wires are: [*:1pywb8gb]Tail (leads to both sides) (brown) [*:1pywb8gb]Right turn/brake (green) [*:1pywb8gb]Left turn/brake (yellow) [*:1pywb8gb]Ground (white) Cherokees use a separate, amber turn signal, so to run a flat, 4-wire from a Cherokee you need a logic box. The MJ has the turn signals combined with the brake lights, so it's ready to go with a 4-wire connector. Ground the white wire from the connector anywhere you can get a good ground. Find which wire feeds the taillight filament on either side of the MJ, and tap the brown wire from the connector into that. You can tap the license light for this. Trace the wire from the right side turn signal filament, and tap the green wire into that. Trace the wire from the left side turn signal filament, and tap the yellow wire into that. From your description, I'm going to guess that you don't have a good ground, so the turns are trying to ground back through the taillight side of the circuit.

My '88 started acting like this, and now that I've read this thread I realize that it started cutting out only after a new CPS was installed. How many of you have encountered such behavior with a new CPS? I've never thought about the possibility of it being bad from the box. This was an official Jeep part that I put in, too. Same symptoms. It started when the weather got hot. It'll run for 10, 15 or maybe 20 minutes, then just ... die. It won't restart when it dies, but if I sit there for a half hour or 45 minutes, it starts right up and I can drive it home.

$75/rim seems to be a fairly common price for repairing alloy rims. Yes, it can be fixed, by TIG welding. If you know someone who can do aluminum TIG welds, you can gave them built up the missing metal and then carfully file it down to the correct profile by hand, then clearcoat it with a rattle can. Or you can just take a file and smooth down the roughness, and use it as-is.

:agree: This. Exactly.

So what would I need to change other than the parts listed above? Here you go. As when I posted this previously, this is from a draft of a book I started. This material IS copyrighted, by me, and by posting it here I do NOT grant anyone permission to reproduce it anywhere else. Please respect that. The 1990 through early '99 brakes are NOT an upgrade. They use composite rotors that are extremely prone to warpage.

Yep. DON'T buy Rusty's, or the same thing may happen.

Ideally you want parts from an 87 to 90 XJ. Jeep stayed with the R12 Freon through '93, I think, but I believe the underhood (and probably under-dash) layout was different for the HO engine vehicles. Conversely, using parts from a 94 - 96 XJ would get you a system that's already set up for and compatible with the RC134 refrigerant. What I'm uncertain about is whether the under-dash controls are compatible ... but I'm sure it could be made to work.

If I remember correctly, a Scout was a lot narrower than an MJ. And I don't recall what the wheel bolt circle was. Probably not a good choice.

Did anyone replace the line/hose between the master and slave cylinders? It's a steel tube on each end, but the middle portion is a rubber flex line, like the brake system flex lines at each axle. If that's the 20+ year old original, it may have gotten soft and be swelling up under pressure rather than transferring full pressure to the slave.

I eliminate it, and I remove the rear proportioning valve. The one in my '88 MJ exploded when I made a panic stop. That one obviously had to go, but they are all about the same age, and you can't buy replacements. If that one blew up, I expect all of them to act the same. I prefer to have brakes when I need them. There are several threads on this site explaining exactly how to eliminate the proportioning valve ... safeely.

Yep. The curved blades are the late-model XJ aux fan. It takes (in a 2000 XJ) a 40amp fuse. You NEED to run that off a heavy-duty relay. The 1988 factory setup us a standard relay for the fan mounted on the driver's side inner fender, near the rear of the air filter box.

Sounds like it's the front diff out of a '99 or newer Grand with QuadraDrive. In the full QuadraDrive system, the transfer case is a full-time case, and the front and rear diffs are "gerotor" actuated units. They have clutches, but they work sort of the opposite of the older Jeep TracLok system. With TracLok, the clutches are engaged and held by spring pressure. When the two wheels on the same axle need to rotate at different speeds (like around a corner), if both tires have traction, the tires develop enough torque to cause the clutches to slip. With QuadraDrive, the clutches are normally UNlocked. When the two wheels on the same axle turn at different speeds, the mechanism actuates a hydraulic "gerotor" pump inside the diff that pushes the clutches into engagement, locking up the axle. It's a great system, and I always wondered if it could be retrofitted to an XJ or MJ Dana 30. But ... I saw the price for one of the units and quickly lost interest in trying it.

There is no single thing to point at for death wobble. Personally, I always look first at tire balance, because death wobble does not and cannot occur unless at least one tire starts ... well, wobbling. And steering boxes, track bars, drag links, tie rods, and shock absorbers cannot cause a tire to start wobbling. But ... death wobble is different from "wheel shimmy" in that when one front tire starts to bounce around, it gets transferred to the opposite side and they then engage in a dance of harmonic reinforcement -- each feeding the other until the vehicle tries to jump off the road. I've had true death wobble twice, in two different vehicles. One was my '88 MJ. Tires were out of balance. I had driven it for two or three years, with no issues. I swapped on a different set of tires, and BAM! Took 'em off, and never had another problem. The other instance was in a 6-month old, box stock 1999 Grand Cherokee and it happened on a smooth state highway after I had driven about 150 miles. I touched the brakes to stay close to the speed limit on a long down grade, and HOLY WHEEL HOP, BATMAN! Nothing was loose, and the tires had no shimmy. But ... the front rotors on the '99 Grands liked to warp, and mine were warped. That's all it took. Also, I had the off-road ("Up Country") suspension, and I subsequently read that Jeep had to change the spring rates and the durometer on some rubber bushings with the "export" suspension because of death wobble. So I suspect that the U.S. Up Country suspension probably was about the same as the export suspension. All those other things people have mentioned become possible culprits if a tire starts wobbling, because they allow for more wobble to be transferred across to the opposite wheel. But start by checking the tires for balance.

Correction ... it should be tempered. ONLY tempered. Laminated is for windshields only. Yes, I know tempered glass cannot be cut. A good glass shop can cut the glass to shape, then have it tempered. I have discussed this with friends who run a glass shop.

FYI, when the vehicle is moving the clutch is engaged. To be able to stop and idle with the tranny in gear, you have to DISengage the clutch. Stepping on the peddle is what should cause the clutch to disengage. There's a third component to check, too. The flex hose between the clutch master and slave cylinders. I had one let go at a toll booth 100 miles from home (and 300 miles from where I was supposed to be going. Needless to say I turned around, but that trip home was a very interesting 100 miles.