Eagle

I don't want it, but I do think the bed is interesting, and I might be tempted to fabricate something like that for an MJ if I had one with a trashed bed. Except that my bodyworking skills are limited to unbolting an old door or fender and bolting on a new one ...

MJs are one size larger than XJs. IIRC, the XJ uses 5/16" and the MJ uses 3/8".

Disagree. Most all XJ/MJ replacement radiators are now truly universal - fit all. Coolant ports for the AW4 are there, the bung hole for the Renix aux fan sensor is there in the left tank, as well as the HO fill port. Just make sure before you buy. Some aftermarket rads are indeed "universal" -- with both the radiator/fill cap and the temp sensor bung. One of the most popular is the GDI, and the last time I bought one it did NOT have the bung. We know because the radiator shop didn't understand the significance when I ordered one for a 1988 Cherokee so he just ordered the same one he usually orders, and most of what he had been seeing was the new style. It had a radiator cap but no sensor bung, so we had to send it back.

Fix what? What's broken?

No, that's not all you have to do. If you have air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan is controlled by a sensor that mounts in the left hand (driver's side) tank of the radiator. Because the auxiliary fan is controlled by the ECU on the 1991 and newer systems, most of the "open" style radiators don't have a bung into which to install the sensor. So then you're faced with trying to figure out how you're going to get the aux fan to turn on when needed. There have been a LOT of different ways proposed over the years. Most of them didn't work.

The "old" radiator and the "new" radiator are exactly the same size and both operate at the same (or nearly the same) pressure. I am constantly mystified by the number of people who seem to think changing to the new style ("open") cooling system is in any way an up-grade.

If it shifts when the engine isn't running but won't shift when the engine is running, the clutch is NOT working. It's a clutch problem, not a transmission problem.

Yes I am, I will be using a set of aftermarket guages for temp, oil pressure and Amperage but I am curious now as to whether the other guages will drop in to the cluster and just work. The fuel gauge changed both polarity and resistance range from the Renix cluster to the late-model cluster. The other gauges did not change, IIRC. But there is no ammeter -- the MJ used a voltmeter. There's nothing to change there -- volts are volts, there is no sender.

Why would you want to disconnect the factory voltmeter?

Nope.

All the parts are available through the parts stores. I get mine from Auto Zone. Mufflers are lifetime warranty -- buy one, and you'll never buy another. There is no welding required. The factory system uses muffler clamps at all joints.

Long bed or short bed?

Picture? You cut the perches off the top of the axle tubes and weld them onto the bottom. It'll end up looking exactly like the axle that's in your MJ. The XJ axle also has shock mounts on the tubes -- you can cut those off, or leave them in place. The critical issue is getting the angle of the perches to the pinion correct. If you're not lifting, use the old MJ axle as a template and match it exactly. If you're lifting, you'll have to calculate the correct angle.

I seriously doubt any studs were broken because of anti-seize. First, very few people ever think to use it on wheel studs. Second, I have been using it on all my vehicles for more than 40 years and I have never broken a stud. Ditto for my brother. It is much more common to see broken studs because there ISN'T anti-seize. The lug nut rusts onto the stud, then when the "technician" hits it with a shop-strength air impact wrench it just shears off the stud.

If you lifted it three inches your front axle is off center. You need an adjustable track bar to center it.

I always use anti-seize. Remember, if you use it you should reduce the torque by about 20 percent.

That's the difference between a "switch" and a "sensor."

Why would anyone want a water pump that flows MORE coolant than the engine was designed for? Pushing the coolant through the system faster means it has less dwell time in the block to pick up heat, and less dwell time in the radiator to shed heat. Many years ago, when I crewed on a short track modified stock car, just about every team cut the tips off the water pump impellers so they would flow LESS water, to combat overheating due to high RPMs not keeping the water in place long enough to transfer heat.

Yes, they do. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,4588 Scroll down to the next-to-last item. ACDELCO Part # 15591103 More Info SENSOR,F/PMP SW & ENG OIL PRESS GA

I don't know which one I would recommend, but I know without question that I do NOT recommend Rusty's. My own was only one of them that I know of failing. One of my NAXJA-NAC friends had the weld nut on a Rusty's bar pop out of the tube, leaving him with effectively no track bar. Hint: You can't steer an XJ or MJ without a functional track bar.

I vote for an adjustable. First, because drilling a new hole on the axle bracket is redneck, and you're just guessing where to put it and hoping it will more or less center the axle. Second, when (not if) it goes bad, then you get to buy a while new track bar again. With an adjustable, you don't drill any new holes, you get the axle exactly centered. and when the upper end wears out you only buy a standard tie rod end, for a fraction of the cost of a whole track bar.

You probably got the one for a vehicle with idiot lights rather than the one for gauges.

What Pete said. I haven't done it with an MJ or XJ, but when I was building my AMC Javelin budget race car I made my own springs. The rears were two pairs of stock springs, shuffled together with every other leaf cut off to make the lengths progressive. It made them stiffer (which was what I wanted) but also lifted the rear about an inch (which was not wanted), so I added a 1" lowering block on each side. For the front I cut either two or three coils (don't remember which). This dropped the nose about an inch and stiffened up the stock springs enough to improve the handling significantly.

That's an oil pressure sender, but what's with the tee fitting and rubber hose just below it? What year MJ and what engine are we talking about?

and how do you switch it to the 4 cylinder setting. Adjust the potentiometer on the back of the tachometer.