Eagle

All the parts are available through the parts stores. I get mine from Auto Zone. Mufflers are lifetime warranty -- buy one, and you'll never buy another. There is no welding required. The factory system uses muffler clamps at all joints.

Long bed or short bed?

Picture? You cut the perches off the top of the axle tubes and weld them onto the bottom. It'll end up looking exactly like the axle that's in your MJ. The XJ axle also has shock mounts on the tubes -- you can cut those off, or leave them in place. The critical issue is getting the angle of the perches to the pinion correct. If you're not lifting, use the old MJ axle as a template and match it exactly. If you're lifting, you'll have to calculate the correct angle.

I seriously doubt any studs were broken because of anti-seize. First, very few people ever think to use it on wheel studs. Second, I have been using it on all my vehicles for more than 40 years and I have never broken a stud. Ditto for my brother. It is much more common to see broken studs because there ISN'T anti-seize. The lug nut rusts onto the stud, then when the "technician" hits it with a shop-strength air impact wrench it just shears off the stud.

If you lifted it three inches your front axle is off center. You need an adjustable track bar to center it.

I always use anti-seize. Remember, if you use it you should reduce the torque by about 20 percent.

That's the difference between a "switch" and a "sensor."

Why would anyone want a water pump that flows MORE coolant than the engine was designed for? Pushing the coolant through the system faster means it has less dwell time in the block to pick up heat, and less dwell time in the radiator to shed heat. Many years ago, when I crewed on a short track modified stock car, just about every team cut the tips off the water pump impellers so they would flow LESS water, to combat overheating due to high RPMs not keeping the water in place long enough to transfer heat.

Yes, they do. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,4588 Scroll down to the next-to-last item. ACDELCO Part # 15591103 More Info SENSOR,F/PMP SW & ENG OIL PRESS GA

I don't know which one I would recommend, but I know without question that I do NOT recommend Rusty's. My own was only one of them that I know of failing. One of my NAXJA-NAC friends had the weld nut on a Rusty's bar pop out of the tube, leaving him with effectively no track bar. Hint: You can't steer an XJ or MJ without a functional track bar.

I vote for an adjustable. First, because drilling a new hole on the axle bracket is redneck, and you're just guessing where to put it and hoping it will more or less center the axle. Second, when (not if) it goes bad, then you get to buy a while new track bar again. With an adjustable, you don't drill any new holes, you get the axle exactly centered. and when the upper end wears out you only buy a standard tie rod end, for a fraction of the cost of a whole track bar.

You probably got the one for a vehicle with idiot lights rather than the one for gauges.

What Pete said. I haven't done it with an MJ or XJ, but when I was building my AMC Javelin budget race car I made my own springs. The rears were two pairs of stock springs, shuffled together with every other leaf cut off to make the lengths progressive. It made them stiffer (which was what I wanted) but also lifted the rear about an inch (which was not wanted), so I added a 1" lowering block on each side. For the front I cut either two or three coils (don't remember which). This dropped the nose about an inch and stiffened up the stock springs enough to improve the handling significantly.

That's an oil pressure sender, but what's with the tee fitting and rubber hose just below it? What year MJ and what engine are we talking about?

and how do you switch it to the 4 cylinder setting. Adjust the potentiometer on the back of the tachometer.

I'm sure it is negative ground, but how do you reckon that the battery can't work in it unless it's positive ground? Most all of the yard tractors today (MTD, Craftsman, ___ and ___) all stick the battery under the seat and the cables are long enough to reach the battery terminals regardless of whether they're "right handed" or "left handed." I use the "wrong" battery in my Craftsman because that way it matches a larger Wheelhorse tractor and I can swap the batteries back and forth at random.

Yup ... buy a new flywheel. The factory service manual states very clearly that the flywheel should NOT be resurfaced.

Hold on - Are you saying the studs for the front hubs are different than the studs for the rear?

#1 - Yes. But the year is important. The speedo cable for 1984 - 1986 (maybe 87-1/2) is different from the cable for 1987 (maybe late) to 1990. 1991 and newer use an electric speedometer. 2 - Yes if the cluster includes a tachometer, but the 1988 and newer style have a potentiometer that can be adjusted for 4-cylinder or 6-cylinder. #3 - Happy hunting.

Why change anything inside the cab? Jeep/Mopar used to sell an MPFI conversion for the old carbureted 4.2L Wrangler. The conversion was essentially the engine room harness from a 4.0L Wrangler, with an adapter to mount the CPS on the front of the engine rather than the bell housing. Why not just use the engine room portion of the harness and leave the cab wiring intact?

AFAIK the only difference is the length of the pushrod that runs from the shift lever to the transfer case. The main linkage attaches to the floor of the cab, so that stays the same.

First test the gauge. It's held into the cluster panel with two screws and it has two terminals, which should be marked. Disconnect the vehicle battery to be sure you don't get zapped (although you shouldn't if the ignition is off). Take a pair of 9-volt transistor batteries, wire them in series to put out 18 volts, and touch the output leads to the terminals on the back of the voltmeter to see if the needle moves. If not, you need a new gauge. If so, check for continuity where the screws connect the gauge to the printed circuit.

That's it.

I took the 0.72:1 directly from the AMC/Jeep BA 10/5 FSM that I bought when I bought my '88 XJ. The spreadsheet is based on tire manufacturers' actual revolutions-per-mile specs for tire sizes, not on theoretical calculations that don't account for sidewall "squat." And 2400 RPM at 70 MPH is not at all "way above" ideal for the 4.0L engine. In fact, it is about as close to ideal as you can get. It's just barely above the torque peak. The engine as originally designed by AMC in the 1960s (in its 199, 232 and later 258 c.i.d. forms) was typically geared to run 24 MPH per 1000 RPM. That resulted in cruising RPMs of 2500 RPM at 60 MPH and 3000 RPM to run 72 MPH. My brother's 1970 Gremlin X went over 300,000 miles with that setup. However, if you insist on correcting for the actual OD ratio (not a bad idea), you take the 2292 RPM, divide by .75 and multiply by .72. That gives you 2200 RPM -- almost dead nuts on the torque peak. The 3.07 gearing Jeep used with the 5-speed XJs and MJs was a horrible choice that kept the engine running far below the torque peak (which is the most efficient range in which to operate). My '88 XJ gets equal or better gas mileage in 4th gear as in 5th gear up to about 65 MPH, which is proof that 5th gear is too high and not helping anything.

Oxygen sensor, not catalytic converter.