Eagle

Considering that the 4.0L engine was never available without fuel injection, I think you should call the cam company and ask what they mean. Might be a misprint.

What car did you have that used the Jeep 2.5L engine? And what is an "ic" head?

Or install WJ lower control arms. They have a bend that allows the tires to turn fully without rubbing.

What do you mean by "fit"? Anything can be made to fit, with sufficient infusions of time, labor and money. If you're asking if you can just bolt it in -- no.

You don't need spacers. You'll lose 1/2 turn off the steering range. Translation: The steering in the MJ is 3-1/2 turns lock to lock. That means from center to either extreme is 1-3/4 turns of the steering wheel. It only rubs at the very extreme -- if you on;y turn the wheel 1-1/2 turns either way, it doesn't rub. I've been driving on 31 x 10.50s on stock rims, with no lift, for several years. No spacers, either.

I'm wondering the exact same thing. My brother managed to bust my rear slider and one of the fixed side panes this winter (idjit). I'm hoping there's a way to repair/replace.

Are you saying that you have removed the air INLET hose from the stock air box the the valve cover, and installed a stand-up style breather cap directly on top of the valve cover? That tube is the air INLET. It pulls clean air through the air filter INTO the engine. If you replaced it with a breather cap, it should also be functioning as an INLET. If you're getting oil pushed out of it, you do have a blowby problem. Part of it could be that the suction line (the very small tube off the back end of the valve cover, to the intake manifold) is clogged. However, if your rings are worn and the engine is generating a lot of blowby, even an open CCV tube probably can't keep up. If the blowby generates too much pressure in the crankcase for the CCV system to handle, the excess is forced out the inlet (reverse cycle), with however much oil fumes are in the mix. Start by running a compression check.

Personally, I'd just cut the wires and hot-wire the NSS. IMHO it's one more solution in search of a problem.

1) Are you sure the aux fan is activating? The one in my wife's 2000 XJ is seized up solid, and it was overheating at the end of the summer. Now that Spring is here I need to install the replacement that's riding around still in the box behind the seat. 2) Are you certain there are no air pockets, and that the system is filled? 3) Are you certain you got the correct water pump? The 4.0L with the serpentine belt uses a reverse rotation (compared to the older engines with multiple vee belts) water pump. The housing and bolt pattern are the same. If you got a water pump for a 4.2L with vee belts, it ain't pushin' any coolant, and that's not a good thing.

How hot does it get?

Mine does this also. Is something wrong with my truck? Sadly, yes. Since sometime in the late 1960s, automobile engines have not had the crankcases open to the atmosphere. The 1950s engines we had when I was a young sprout had an open tube coming out the side of the engine and turned down toward the ground. That was ventilation for the crankcase -- if the crankcase needed air, it sucked it in through that tube, and (more often) if there was blowby, the excess pressure in the crancase was vented to the atmosphere through that tube. Then we started getting concerned about air pollution, so eliminating that oily smoke that vented from all the crankcases became an issue. So the manufacturers eliminated the open tube, and created the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. Instead of an open tube, they put a check valve in the valve cover, and a vacuum line to the intake manifold, along with another line from the air cleaner to the valve cover. The idea was to create a closed system. The PCV line sucked the oily fumes out of the crankcase and into the intake manifold, where they mixed with the incoming air-fuel mixture and were burned up in the engine. The inlet tube from the air cleaner provided a path for fresh air to replace the oily fumes the PCV system sucked out, and the equalize the atmospheric pressure in the crankcase. The Jeep 4.0L engine uses essentially the same system, except there's no PCV valve -- the very small tube coming off the back end of the valve cover is the suction tube, and because it's so small they decided a physical valve wasn't needed. What happens is that, as the engine gets old and the piston rings wear, they lose compression and more blowby gets past the rings. This builds up pressure in the crankcase. At the same time, sludge tends to restrict that little tube, leaving no avenue for the excess pressure to vent. So two things happen: First, the front inlet tube becomes a pressure vent tube, and oily fumes get pushed back into the airbox. Open your airbox, and you'll probably see oil soaking the air cleaner element. That's where the oil comes from. If the blowby is severe enough, even the inlet tube doesn't provide enough relief, so the pressure goes up the oil drain return passages, pressurizes the valve chamber, and oily fumes start to seep out around the filler cap.

You have it reversed. The OEM rims have 5-1/4" backspacing. The most you can get in aftermarket is 4-1/2". That solves the LCA rubbing -- but then the tire are set farther outboard, so when the suspension compresses instead of the tire nicely tucking up inside the fender -- it smashes into the flare. If the flare is removed, it hits the steel metal and gets a nice cut. Obviously, you can then start cutting away, but the simple answer is that 31 x 10.50s on stock rims work best on OEM rims. Lift does not solve the fender interference problem with aftermarket rims unless you also extend the bump stops to limit suspension compression significantly.

31 x 10.50s are fine if mounted on factory rims. There will be minimal rub on the lower control arms with stock rims. 31 x 10.50. Unless you do more than just adding lift, all the same problems you face at stock height will still be there at 3" of lift.

It has to be the pinion seal or the cover gasket. There are no seals in the axles at the housing -- the axle seals are at the outer ends, at the hubs. The outer ends on both sides in your photo are dry.

This may help: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29052

"C4C"? Whazzat?

If it's in a 2001 Cherokee it is a 3550. And the 3500 and 3550 are the exact same tranny except that one has the bell housing integral and the other has it bolted on -- and I can never remember which is which. I would assume the bell housings are different. Your '88 has the internal slave cylinder. The 2001 XJ has an external slave.

Bottle jack. Position the jack directly under the spring plate and you should have access to all four nuts, allowing you to loosen both u-bolts uniformly. Otherwise, jack it up as high as possible and put jack stands under the frame, then release the jack. The weight of the axle will be supported on the spring and you can release both u-bolts evenly.

The perches aren't in the Jeep parts listing. They're in the Performance Catalog.

Even the lowly Dana 35 lets you put a floor jack under the pumpkin to jack up the rear end. The factory service manual for the WJ (at least mine did in 1999) specifically warns NOT to do that, because it'll warp the center housing. (Of course, they do NOT provide this warning in the Owner's manual, only in the shop manual.) So when the lads above (^^^) in this thread say the D44xx is good IF YOU TRUSS IT, they mean that you MUST truss it. Back around 2000, the WJ factory rejected entire batches of the D44s because they arrived at the factory already warped, just from having been shipped with support for the pumpkin and no support for the tubes. (Or maybe it was the opposite -- the ends of the tubes wee supported but the pumpkins weren't) There was a lot of talk about how DaimlerChrysler was going to drop Dana-Spicer as an axle supplier and switch brands. In fact, there were formal announcements -- but magically, it never happened.

Make sure it's the RIGHT (as in "correct") one. They are NOT all the same.

You are entitled to your opinion. I had the misfortune of owning a '99 WJ with the pseudo-Dana 44 rear axle. I'd rather have the D35 any time.

Cheaper than a new head -- but helicoils don't cost nearly that much, even in Canadian money. Youse wuz robbed. For example: http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... DoQ8wIwAw# And that's for the tap, and six (6) coils. Enough to do an entire 6-cylinder engine, if necessary. However, it's really difficult to strip the plug threads on a cast iron head. That problem usually only affect al-you-min-ee-um heads.

Sounds like my '88 -- except mine doesn't wait for me to park it, it cuts out whenever it feels like it, typically after driving about 10 to 15 minutes. It has been suggested that the ignition module (on the passenger side inner fender) may have a crack in the phenolic insulation. One of these days I hope to check that out -- if life will stop throwing me curve balls for a few days.

Renix is shorthand for the RENault-BendIX injection/ignition system used in the Comanche from 1987 through 1990. For the Comanche, it doesn't matter what year you have, the temp sender for the gauge is at the very back corner of the head, on the driver's side, and the oil pressure sender is screwed into the oil filter mounting adapter. Each will have a single wire coming off the end.