Eagle

The crude test for the gauge is easy. Power on -- remove the pigtail from the sender terminal, the gauge should peg at 80 psi. Ground the pigtail to the block, the gauge should drop to zero. On the sender, check it with an ohmmeter. The range is zero to 88 ohms. Running oil pressure should be "somewhere in the middle," so look for an ohm reading in the 40 range with the engine at about 2000 RPM. If it's nowhere near that, try a new sender.

:agree: Yep. That's what I would do, too. Keep it simple, and don't dig any deeper than you have to. The stud is still solid, all you need as a thread to attach a nut and washer to. And be sure to buy a can of anti-seize ... and use it religiously so you never face the problem again (on anything you have worked on).

Then you have the early style, and the only way to correct for number of cylinders is to change out a resistor.

The impact is definitely not a good idea. Do you know what a nut breaker is? Tighten the tool over the head of the nut and it cracks, releiving its grip on the bolt/stud. The nut is toast, of course, but if it's all rusted up you probably shouldn't be thinking about reusing it anyway.

Is the damper fully pulled into place? I suspect your mistake was using the original bolt to try to install the damper. It's a press fit, and it needs the bolt to pull it onto the crank snout. But ... the original bolt is too short, resulting in a stripped end. The correct procedure is to use a longer bolt to draw the damper onto the crank snout, then replace with the original bolt for final torque-down. If the bolt is tripped, chances are the crank is okay and just needs the threads chased out.

That's the adapter for a Fey universal step bumper. Are you installing one of those, or do you have a factory bumper?

:agree: Cooper tire recommends an 8-1/2" rim for 10.50s and a 10" rim for 12.50s.

You're close. I make it 2440 RPM at 70 MPH for 31s and 4.10 gears, and 2713 RPM for 4.56 gears. With 33" tires, revs drop to 2292 with 4.10s and 2550 with 4.56s. Considering that a stock vehicle with AW4 cruises at 2230 RPM at 70 MPH, for a truck that's going to be used mostly for highway the 4.10s will be as close to stock as you can get. But ... the 33" tires have a lot more inertia to get rolling, so it may not feel as quick when accelerating. 2550 RPM at 70 MPH is not excessive, by any criterion. If you're going to regear with new gears, by all means get the 4.56s. But it'll be a lot less expensive to find junkyard axles already set up with 4.10s.

Stock XJs and MJs. The problem isn't the XJ or MJ, or me. I can drive just about anything at 150 MPH if the engine has the moxie to get it there. It's when some idiot cuts you off and you have to slam on the brakes while making a violent evasive maneuver that the high, narrow SUV chassis decides it wants to be upside down before you even have time to blink. I have survived three serious accidents (none my fault, one as a passenger) and several near misses at legal speeds. I know how fast things can turn to zhit -- and if you're going 20 or 40 or 50 MPH over the speed limit, the zhit just happens even faster. These are off-road vehicles, not sports cars.

You have about 112 horsepower trying to push a brick that weighs over 3,000 pounds. It's normal. The 2.5L is not a rocket ship.

The MJ is supposed to have a slight rake when empty. As far as I'm concerned, a stock 4WD IS level. If you're looking to eliminate the rake, I wouldn't use 2" spacers, I'd use 1" (or 3/4", which is what I think they actually measure).

Your new ones are the way axle seals have been made for ... well, like forever. The open lip faces in so the axle can slide in without damaging the seal, and any pressure build-up inside tends to force the lip tighter around the axle shaft. The factory seal was made the way it is because they were being slapped in on a mass production line by high school dropouts, so they used one that CAN'T be installed backwards.

I have not had any XJ or MJ faster than 75 MPH and I don't intend to. And that's for stock height vehicles. These trucks are comparatively narrow, and you now have yours lifted, which makes it even more unstable. It is not safe to drive it that fast ... period. I know I sound like an old lady, but FYI this is from someone who has raced sports cars, done high-speed hillclimbs, and won statewide autocross championships. In properly prepared CARS I have driven over 150 MPH. I have also been involved in a couple of accidents on highways, so I know how fast everything can go to [bleep]. In the second of the highway accidents, I was rear-ended by another car at speed, and did a 180 followed by a corrective 180, ending up stopped in the center lane facing the direction I was initially going. If I had been in am MJ, I would have been on the roof. Don't even think along these lines. You have started down the road of making your MJ into an off-road beast. It is NOT suitable for speed work.

An adjustable track bar is a good idea, but up to 2 inches is considered a "budget boost" and most people who just install coil spacers don't bother with an adjustable track bar. The amount by which that initial 2" of lift offsets the axle is small enough not be be a concern. As you go higher, the angle of the track bar is steeper, so each additional inch produces proportionally more lateral offset. Ditto shocks. Most people doing a budget boost don't buy longer shocks. Ideally, you want the shock pistol at the middle point of its travel with the vehicle at rest. However, if you install longer shocks, then you need to install bump stop extensions to ensure that you don't bottom out the shocks on compression. Mr. Gasket (or maybe Edelbrock?) makes 1-1/2" shock extenders that will allow the use of the original height shocks with a 2" budget boost. However, the same caveat applies. The bump stops need to be extended by the same amount to prevent damaging the shocks. Who has 2-1/2" spacers? I wouldn't go more than 2" personally, and all the ones I have seen actually measure 1-3/4".

So it will be stronger. The '93 shaft is mated to the larger (and stronger) u-joints, so it made sense to strengthen the shaft as well.

What situation? The question was answered in that thread. They interchange. What's the question?

Sigh. I know exactly what I want/need to do with each of the MJs in the fleet. All I need is time, money, and a place to work on them ...

Si senor. es correcto. The 16 gal had 2 straps, as does the 18.5. uuuuh...i know...i was just testing you guys.. Did we pass?

But vehicles with SelecTrac had non-disconnect front axles. I would suggest removing the vacuum harness from the axle to the firewall but plugging/capping the lines at the firewall. I believe that's where the switch that actuates the 4WD light is located.

As already posted: Keep it. It's a great axle.

i thought the 23-gallon tank had three straps. No?

Yes it does. Not the sales literature, but the FSM has a chart: 4WD I-4 . . . 4-spd = 3.31 - 3.54 - 4.10 . . . . . 5-spd = 3.54 - 4.10 . . . . . Auto == 3.54 - 4.10 V-6 . . . 5-spd = 3.54 - 4.10 . . . . . . Auto == 3.54 - 4.10 2WD was the same. Footnote says 3.31 was available only with a fuel economy package. I don't know if I believe this chart or not, though. I have an '86 XJ hulk out back that was a V-6 with automatic, and the axles are 3.73s.

The LWB Comanche came with either a 23-gallon tank or a 16-gallon tank. You may have the 16-gallon size.

Ignition key was six tumblers, doors and glove box key was five. I had the ignition key, but not the door key. It was an 87 MJ, and for sure the glove box had one tumbler less than the doors. I remember being so proud of myself, cutting the key for the glovebox, working it till the action was absolutely perfect, then :fs1: :fs2: :wall: when it did not work at all in the doors. I figured one, or both locks/doors/glovebox door had been changed, till I opened up the door lock, and saw it was exactly the same, except for having one extra tumbler (keyed the same as the glovebox, except for the extra tumbler). YMMV, but you're making me think about pulling the cylinder out of a spare glovebox door to check my sanity. :D The glove box lock may use four tumblers instead of five, but the same key operates the door locks and the glove box, and it's a five-bit key. The ignition key is a six-bit key.

Its better then a dana 35 and 8.25 but not as good as a dana 44 or a ford 8.8. Also from what I under stand, after market parts can be hard to find. Oh and I think but am not sure that it should have 4.10 gear ratio. Brandon There are some who would argue that it's better than a Dana 44. It has a larger ring gear. The downside to the AMC 20 is that it's heavy, and it has less ground clearance than the D44. It isn't difficult to find lockers and such for it -- it was used in a lot of vehicles over the years. If you have it -- consider yourself lucky. BTW -- it should also have 10" x 2-1/2" drum brakes, which are significantly larger than the standard 10" x 1-3/4" brakes on the D35.