Eagle

And anodized. What's the big deal? It's only your life you're risking. :wall:

Funny you should ask. http://www.olypen.com/craigh/heater.htm

Good point. This relates to the oxygen sensor, too. A leak at the exhaust manifold can result in the manifold sucking IN air, which makes the mixture seem lean as the exhaust stream passes the O2 sensor -- so the sensor tells the ECU to send MORE gas through the injectors. Several years ago, a guy in a Cherokee on a NAXJA-NAC trail ride managed to crack his exhaust manifold out on the trail. It was late, and getting dark, so he tried to drive it back to the trail head. Not only was he getting serial backfiring, after a short distance we popped the hood and the exhaust manifold was glowing red. So, yes ... a leaking exhaust manifold can result in backfires.

Start by telling her this. Then ask her if she is willing to go to marriage counseling with you. If she agrees, that's a good sign. Be aware, however, that marriage counseling is not a guarantee. Counseling helps both people look at the marriage objectively. Sometimes the result is that one or the other person (or both) sees more clearly that the marriage really doesn't have much of a basis. One other thing to keep in mind: Depending on what's wrong in the marriage, sometimes it's necessary to sacrifice the marriage to save the friendship. It ain't easy. And I'm probably not the best person to ask for advice. I'm currently in marriage #3. This one seems to be working but, at the beginning, I thought the first two would, also.

Yep.

I don't have the Draw-Tite, but what I DO have is a pair of MJ mounting plates for a universal aftermarket step bumper. Shoot me a PM with your smail mail address and I can trace one out for you on heavy paper and you can use it as a template. In fact, those bumper mounts are available from many of the on-line body parts places, cheap. It might work better/be easier just to buy a pair of those and whack off the ends that support the bumper.

Harbor Freight Tools sells a usable multimeter for a mere $3.99. At that price, I grabbed a couple. I keep one in the shop and one in my mobile toolbox. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function ... 90899.html At that price, nobody has an excuse not to own a multimeter. Doesn't really matter if it's accurate to 1% over the full range -- 90 percent of automotive work doesn't need that level of accuracy. Most of what we do is "Yes, there's continuity" or "No there isn't."

Jeep.

I would start by checking that the vacuum operated flappers are all flapping on command. If they aren't in synch, they can be allowing outdoor air to bypass the heater core. Another possibility (which is somewhat contrary to having some heat in "Defrost" but no heat in other positions) is that the heater core may be clogged.

Then you need the local PLUMBING parts store, not the local auto parts store. Although 3/8" NPT isn't that unusual -- Sears will probably have it.

Here ya go. Please note this is from a book manuscript I started awhile back. It is copyrighted and in putting it here for you to view I am NOT giving you permission to reproduce or distribute it anywhere else.

Bad oxygen sensor. If it's slow to respond to changes in engine load (i.e. unburned fuel in the exhaust), when you let off the gas the mix gets rich. The O2 sensor is supposed to see that and shut down the injectors, but if it's slow responding, it allows enough unburned fuel into the exhaust to cause backfiring.

There's a fuse -- did you check that?

Are you sure the engine isn't seized? Pull the spark plugs and see if you can turn the engine by hand with a breaker bar on the nut at the front of the crankshaft.

Factory spec for oil pressure (with a warm engine) is 13 psi minimum at idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. In general, most decent Jeep engines seem to idle between 20 and 30 psi and run 45 to 55 psi at high way speed (around 2000 RPM). Yours sounds a bit on the low side, but not fatal. With the front axle disconnect, it's not unusual for there to be some delay unlocking, but several blocks is a bit extreme. I have found that, if traffic permits, unlocking is more reliable if I can stop and back up for a few feet, then go forward again.

Are you bragging or complaining?

If it's a '94 Wrangler, it'll be set up with the Chrysler MPFI rather than the TBI found in the '86 through '90 MJ. The base engine is the same, but the injection, manifold, and electronics are all different. What year MJ?

That's why I like my old favorites.

Newer vehicles can do this because they have a viscous coupling or a mechanical differential in the transfer case -- like the Jeep NVG 242 transfer case (SelecTrac) used on some up-scale Cherokees, and the 6-cylinder Grand Cherokees. The NVG231 t-case used in the MJ and base model XJs does not have any differential in it, so the front and rear drive shafts are always locked in 4WD and MUST spin at the same speed. You can use 4WD-Hi on roads that are VERY wet and slippery, but don't use it unless you know for certain that the tires can slip a little. Every time you go around a corner the front wheels travel a little farther than the rear wheels. Since the axles are locked together, that results in stress and if the tires can't slip to release it -- something's going to break. The best answer is to not use 4WD on pavement at all, but it's your truck. And I agree with others -- if it's slippery enough to be using 4WD, you should not be going anywhere near 70 MPH. It's that kind of thinking that explains why I see so many Explorers in ditches every time we get a heavy rain or a light snow.

Y'all know I'm older than dirt. Among the other attributes of thks condition, I don't like plastic gas cans ... and without spending a year's salary for one of the new, explosion-proof steel cans, that's all you can buy these days. Awhile back, I found a 5-gallon steel gas can in the trash at the local transfer station. To my surprise, the bottom was solid, so I grabbed it. The fill spout has no gasket, but I can make a gasket. The biggest problem is that the little yellow vent cap is completely gone. Years ago, any True Value hardware store had kits that included a new pour spout and a new vent. But -- since they don't sell the cans anymore, they also don't sell the parts. So I have to improvise. Looks like the vent on the plastic oil drain pans is the same thing. If all else failts, I'll drop $10 at Auto Zone for a new drain pan, and cannibalize my old one for the vent. Before I do that, though -- if any of you has an old oil drain pan (or anything similar, like a gas or kerosene can with the bottom rotted out) that isn't being used but hasn'e yet been discarded ... I'd really appreciate getting the vent fitting. It's the little yellow thingie on this oil drain pan, next to the carry handle, opposite the pour spout: TIA

"Scarry." That would be ... with scars? Two fans, rotating in opposing directions to cancel each other out? Tack is saddles and bridles and stuff you put on horses. What else can we say? "Oxymoron," perhaps? (Or maybe just "moron.")

Do you have a multimeter? The oil pressure sensor has an ohm range of 0 to 88 ohms. 0 ohms is for 0 oil pressure, and 88 ohms is 80 psi. Start your engine, let it warm up, then unplug the pigtail from the oil pressure sensor and connect the multimeter between the terminal on the sensor and the engine block. If it reads 88 ohms, the sensor is bad. If it reads significantly less than 88 ohms, the problem is the gauge rather than the sensor.

Not the Jeep FSM. The spec is 13 psi minimum at idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. In practice, most Jeep engines (other than those with real problems) typically idle at around 25 to 30 psi (warm engine) and run between 45 and 55 psi at highway speed. I've logged probably a million miles on just these engines, and I have never (that's NEVER) seen one that followed that "10 psi per 1000 RPM" rule.

That was the original question. Dirt eater brought up replacing the entire axle -- which IMHO would not be a good move.