Eagle

3.73 gears with 31" tires has exactly the same final drive ratio as stock tires with 3.55 gears. So going to 33" tires and 3.55 gears is like two steps back -- it'll be approximately like running stock tires with 2.87 gears, or maybe 31" tires with 3.07 gears. Possible, but not pleasant.

When one expends considerable time, effort and money polishing a turd, the end result is a shiny turd.

Well, we went. We did NOT enjoy the event. I wore a suit, and my wife was also appropriately attired. Appropriately, that is, to be with a guy in a suit. Most of the guests looked like they just stopped working in the barn or shop and strolled directly over for the event. I obviously need not have bothered dressing for the occasion. Scouting seems to have gone downhill considerably in the 50 or so years since I was a Boy Scout. When I was a Scout, "uniform" meant something. The other scouts and adults in the troop were all wearing Boy Scout costumes, but the term "uniform" could not be applied. I don't think any two had the same trousers, and I'm certain no two had the same footwear. Some wore kerchiefs, most did not. It's February in Connecticut, and many wore short sleeved shirts -- including a few of the adult scoutmasters, who also wore conspicuously-colored long-sleeved undershirts beneath said short sleeved "uniform" shirts. At least one of the scouts wore short-legged cargo pants. Most of the scouts (and adults) looked like they had slept in their uniforms for a week. But ... the part that REALLY irritated me was that, while they did manage to set the flags with the American flag to the flags' right and the Boy Scout flag to the flags' left -- the staff for the Boy Scout flag was at least 6 inches taller than the staff for the American flag. Sheesh!

Jim, I sure wish you had told me BEFORE I did it without removing the pack from the vehicle that it couldn't be done. It's actually quite easy. Go for the AAL. Longer shackles are a short term lift that, in the long term, just kill your springs, while adding no load capacity.

Not gonna happen. A Dana 44 out of what vehicle? NO MJ or XJ had a Dana 44 in front.

I'm trying to copy your drawing into AutoCAD, but your dimensions don't include either the radius or the center point for any of the radiused corners. Without those bits of data, it's impossible to draw it. I can't tell what the dimensions you provide actually relate to -- the nodes (midponts_ on the radii, perhaps? I'f you're willing to send me a copy of the .DXF, I can make it into an AutoCAD drawing. My newest version is AutoCAD LT 2000, so the .DXF may have to be saved back a couple of versions. Let me know if I should send you an e-mail address. Thanks

:agree: Add weight. Do NOT toss the weight into the very back of the box. Ideally, it should be directly over the rear axle, or slightly forward of it. You may need to use ropes or straps to keep it in place.

75W-90 gear oil, GL-5

Thanks 8) I don't know many details about the 86 and just made an assumption. It's a Jeep. NEVER assume anything. If you have the room, grab it. They stopped building MJs 19 years ago, so it isn't like you're going to see more of them coming down the 'pike. Just the title and VIN plates are worth $200.

The guy who manages the Advanced Auto nearest me is someone I recognize. Fortunately, he hasn't recognized me. About 10 or 12 years ago he owned a computer repair shop. I took in a notebook computer that would run perfectly when doing local stuff, but as soon as it connected to the Internet it would freeze up. Obviously some kind of software conflict, and I explained that when I took it in and asked if he could resolve it. "Sure," he said. After several MONTHS had gone by (enough time, during which I stopped by the store numerous times and found it closed) that I had actually called the police to ask if he was still in business and if I could file a complaint for a stolen computer), he finally called and said it was ready. I picked it up, paid a bill that was half what the computer had cost, took it home, logged onto the Internet ... and it froze up. I took it back, told him it wasn't fixed, and he started screaming at me that is fixed because HE SAID IT WAS FIXED. I walked out, called the bank and put a stop payment on the check, then wrote him a letter explaining why I had stopped payment ... and sent a copy to the Better Business Bureau. Never heard from him again, and a few months later the store was out of business. And now he's managing an auto parts store. :doh:

Since when? The FSM for a Renix-Era XJ lists the standard temperature as 192-198*F. No, that's the range at which the thermostat opens. The sender for the dashboard temperature gauge is not located anywhere near the thermostat; it's at the back of the head, which is a hotter location. Even when brand new (and I own three Cherokees with the 4.0L engine that were bought new) the normal operating temperature as indicated at the gauge is 210 degrees.Don't forget that the purpose of a thermostat is to keep the temperature UP, not down. A 195-degree (nominal) thermostat is supposed to keep the engine operating at a minimum temperature of 195 degrees. Too many people get this backwards and think the thermostat's role is to establish a maximum temperature. Not so.

Incorrect. There is no fan control switch in the thermostat housing. Even if there were, how would it cause any maintenance issues? The electric fan is only the secondary, and a lot of XJs and MJs don't even have one. The primary fan is driven by the engine, regardless of which type cooling system you have. Define "normal." Both systems use a radiator, a fan (or two fans), and a thermostat. I'd say they are both "normal." Why is it more complicated? My question back to you is, "Why in the world would anyone go through the trouble and expense of changing to the 'open' system when it has the exact same size radiator and doesn't cool any better?" Control for the electric fan. Many who do the swap also change out the heater control valve.

I certainly do wish you luck, and I hope it comes out well. I hope you are a good welder. Personally, given that it's the stud-to-frame connection that gets all the stress and the nut on the end of the stud is only to keep the shock bushing from sliding off, I don't understand why you thought it better to try welding on a new stud when the old one was still solid, but there's no going back now, so ... have at it, and let us know how it comes out.

Here ya go: http://www.huskyspring.com/U-bolts_c_9.html

Not recommended procedure.

Sounds like a good way to crush the frame rail to me. Why cut off a perfectly good mount when all that's needed is to weld on a new threaded section?

3-inch is for the Chrysler 8-1/4 axle. It won't hold a Dana 44 securely.

The factory MJ u-bolts are 14mm. That's larger than 1/2" and smaller than 9/16", but closer to 9/16". I've standardized on 1/2" because I work on XJs and MJs (XJs were 12mm), and I figure a new, high-quality 1/2" u-bolt straight from a truck spring shop is at least as good as a 20+ year old 14mm u-bolt that grew up in rust belt country.

Around this forum, it is axiomatic that "Friends don't let friends use Fram oil filters." ANY Fram oil filter. Filter brand aside, yes you can swap the newer filter adapter onto the older block.

Good luck finding a frame under the cab. You do know what "unibody" means, right?

First off, 2200 RPM is a lot more than 30 MPH. What you are describing sounds like the distributor is off by a tooth.

If the front axle uses the unitized hub/bearing assemblies, they are the same for 2WD and 4WD. But some years the front axles of 2WD vehicles got conventional front axle bearings. I don't remember which years were which, though.

IF the engine needs to be replaced, I would swap in another Jeep 4.0L I-6. If you want/need more power -- stroke it.

The 10-slot grille was used from 1984 (XJ) through 1987. The grille itself was changed to 8 slots in 1988 and continued through 1989. In 1990, the grille remained 8 slots but the entire grille and header assembly were redesigned to use fewer parts. The trim strip above the grille and headlights, which was a separate part (three separate parts) on the early ones was integrated into the grille and headlight bezels beginning in 1990. The front end in that photo could be made up from 1984 through 1987 parts.

The nut breaker wedge should never touch the threads. Even if it does, it's easy to clean up with a thread chaser die. Sears sells them in sets, and everyone who works on old cars (and trucks) should have them. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ckType=G18