Eagle

Yes, you will. And the 84 tach does not have the adjustable potentiometer, so it has to match the cylinder count in your vehicle.

If you use a stock XJ floor shift or that one in your link, there won't be any cable up to the dashboard or steering column. That was only for MJs with the column shift auto. If you mean the cable for the steering wheel lock, your manual tranny column has a push button for that function. You can run a cable to interlock the steering lock to the shifter -- or you can ignore that and continue to use the push button as you have been.

Nope. The steering shaft is the same, only the box is different between manual and power steering.

Yes, the '90 cluster has the adjustable tach.

Who knows? It sounds like they bought it with the lift, so they have no idea. Maybe it's actually normal but they're used to Fords and Chevvies with push-button 4WD. Or ... whoever did the lift might have installed a transfer case drop and messed up the linkage.

I don't think that location is better -- I think it's worse. That would put one speaker right next to your left ear, with the other three all several feet away. Doesn't make sense to me.

Theoretically -- and actually -- the caster angle changed, and caster is an important factor in keeping death wobble at bay. That said, if it starts at 50 to 55 MPH, the underlying cause is tire balance.

The dealer-installed air wasn't wired the same as factory air. I have the dealer air in my '87. It's completely different from the OEM air in my '88 XJ and '88 MJ. Since you're taking the a/c from an XJ of the same year, you shouldn't need a diagram -- just move eveything from the donor XJ to the MJ exactly as it was set up in the XJ.

First, does the truck have a 231 transfer case with the central axle disconnect, or does it not have a disconnect?

That depends on whether you use a short (half-length) AAL or a full-length AAL. A full-length doesn't make the ride significantly stiffer/harsher at all, and if your springs are weak and/or saggy, a full-length AAL will probably feel like it rides better, not worse.

If he put on a spare that doesn't match the other front tire, that could account for a pull. Might be a different size, might be a different tread, might be running too soft or too hard.

Put those 5 back where you found them and follow the instructions I posted. You can see the screws I described in the diagram I posted -- that's why I posted it.

Are you asking about a replacement for the stock pull handle, or are you looking for some kind of key lock to immobilize the handle?

The basic engine is the same, but your '89 has throttle body injection and an ignition system from a consortium of Renault and Bendix in Europe. In 1991 Jeep switched over to using a Chrysler-engineered multi-port injection system on the 2.5L engines.

What type of mirrors, and what five screws? If you have the most common mirrors, which are the rectangular ones that mount to the front triangle of the door vent windows, you start by popping the retainer clips to loosen the interior door trim panel. Lift it up to clear the window channel, then either slide it back a couple of inches or let it drop down. This exposes the interior mount for the mirror. There should be (IIRC) one screw, at the bottom, holding the plastic trim piece on. Remove that, and you'll find three (3) screws holding the mirror itself. I stole this from another thread about mirrors:

ALL harmonic balancers eventually separate. Often, yes. Not always.

Why? Flip them side to side and they'll work fine, with the original shocks.

Amazing. I'm shocked -- SHOCKED! I say. Tires. Who'd a thunk it? ^^October 23, 2010^^

Works for me. Don't believe what you read on the Errornet. The AW4 is one of the most bulletproof automatic transmissions you'll ever find. Unibodies are used because they are stronger than chassis-on-frame, not because they are weaker. Those few trucks that break in half don't break at the unibody, they break in the rear, where there's a conventional frame. FWIW, although I have never seen an MJ break there (and I live in the salt belt), my brother's Nissan "Hardbody" did break there. And the Nissan has a full frame under it. Don't beat on it. I have 288,000 miles on my '88 Cherokee, with the original Dana 35 rear. I've wheeled it all over the northeast, from the Mohawk Train to Paragon in PA to some undisclosed trails in MA and RI. I've also driven it across the country twice and wheeled a bunch of fire roads in New Mexico. It ain't a Dana 60, but it's MORE than adequate for street use as a daily driver. Harmonic damper. Flex plate.

Park on a level place with the wheels pointed straight ahead. This is important, so make sure. Set the parking brake, put it in PARK if you have an automatic, and chock the rear wheels. Turn the ignition key to the first position after LOCK. You want to be able to turn the steering wheel, but you do NOT want the engine to start. Now -- roll down the drivers window, stand outside the door, and gently rotate the steering wheel through the range of slop. DO NOT TURN HARD ENOUGH TO ACTUALLY MOVE THE TIRES. All you're looking to do is see how much slop there is. Now -- open the hood and look at your steering box. You'll probably have to remove the air filter box for access to the top of the steering box. It should look about like this: In the lower part of the photo, do you see the "turret" that's attached with three bolts and has a stud and locknut in the center? That stud is the over-center adjustment screw. You'll need a box-end wrench for the locknut and an Allen key for the adjusting screw. Sorry, I don't remember the sizes. Loosen the locknut while holding the screw in place. Back off the locknut a couple or three turns, at least. Remove the box-end wrench. You are now ready to adjust. You can rotate the steering through the slop range from under the hood by grabbing the flex flange where the steering shaft attaches to the steering box. What you want to do is wiggle it back and forth while GRADUALLY screwing the adjusting screw in. You should feel the slop range decreasing as you screw in the adjuster. DO NOT try to take every last micron of slop out. The box needs a small amount of "lash" to keep from binding up. Just take most of it out. Once you've got it so there's only a tiny amount of slop, hold the adjuster with the Allen key and tighten the locknut. Note: If the steering box is completely trashed, the adjusting screw will bottom and you'll still have slop. I've only seen one box like that ... ever.

Answer: No. quote="Bignuke"]And i was thinking about adding a pretty cheap lift (1"-2") I know the chevy drop shackles will add about 1.5" but I'm looking for an even 2" lift.. I already have the WJ lower control arms for the rubbing and I'm not planning on trimming the fenders at all. Just want to know what's out there for a lift around $100.. I know some companies have all these pucks and shackles for $300 when i go to a junkyard and get them for $50.. If it's only for the street, you don't need any lift, so why are you even asking?

Technically, play in the steering box itself has NO effect on front end alignment. Alignment includes caster, camber, and toe-in. In an MJ, camber is not adjustable (except by replacing the ball joints). Caster can be adjusted by adding or removing shims in the frame pockets where the lower control arms attach. That rarely needs attention. Toe-in is what usually needs to be -- and gets -- adjusted. The tech could have done the alignment -- he wanted to sell you a steering box. Don't go to that shop again. I hate shops that try to "upsell" unnecessary work before they've even looked at what I asked to have fixed. How much slop do you have in your steering wheel, and have you tried adjusting the over-center screw on the box?

Actually, ALL MJs came from the factory with 14mm U-bolts. The closest SAE size is 9/16, but since I work on both XJs (which came with 12mm U-bolts) and MJs, I standardized on 1/2" so the same parts can be used on both. It's slightly oversize for the XJ and slightly undersized for an MJ, but IMHO a new 1/2" U-bolt is probably at least as strong as a 20+ year old, heavily rusted 14mm U-bolt.

Correction: Will most likely be a Dana 35.

I cannot imagine brake fluid in an engine doing anything other than creating endless misery. I've popped frozen engines loose by using a length of hardwood dowel placed against the cylinder wall (so it bears on the edge of the piston, not the hollow center) and striking sharply with a moderately heavy hammer (NOT plastic). Move from one cylinder to the next in rotation. Helps to have been soaking in rust penetrant for some time before the attempt, but it sounds like you have that covered. Just be careful that you don't punch out the center of the piston top.