Eagle

The motor mounts are the same, but you also have an intake issue. Your vehicle has a throttle body injection. The 2000 uses multi-port injection, so the intake manifold is completely different. I know on the 6-cylinder engines even the shape of the ports changed from Renix to Chrysler -- I don't know if that's the case for the 4-banger, but I would expect so. Is your head usable? The easiest route would be to blot your old head on the new block.

Camber is not adjustable, so I don't know what the alignment guy was going to "shim." Either you need ball joints or you have a bent axle.

The block is the same but the head has (I think) different shaped ports. If the 2000 engine includes the exhaust manifold you should be okay. Keep in mind, though, the 2000 will be set up for multi-port injection and you have throttle body, so unless you plan to rewire the vehicle you'll need to swap in your old intake. And the flywheel (or flex plate) won't work with the Renix CPS.

I'm on the third blower fan in the '88, and now that colder weather is here it's howling like a banshee. Probably won't last the winter, so I should do something now. Junkyard fans don't last long, but you can't get new ones from the factory. However, you can get bare motors from the parts houses. I looked at replacing the motor when the original died, and I couldn't figure out how to get the impeller off the shaft. Has anybody done this? If so, how you you do it?

5/16" IIRC. And IIRC there are two each of two different lengths.

The pressure on the sidewall is the maximum pressure, not the recommended pressure.

30 psi

On the 87s (and 88s and 89s and 90s) the ignition key is a 6-bit key and the door keys are 5-bit keys. It is not possible to make a key that will operate the ignition and the doors. Those years were two-key years and there's no easy way around it. If you remove the door cylinders and take them to a locksmith, he can easily make new keys to work those locks, but they won't be the same as the ignition key.

Trying to ues the XJ mounts would be a VERY bad idea. The upper mounts on the MJ are studs that run perpendicular to the long axis of the chassis. So do the stock lower mounts, and that allows the shocks to rotate as the expand and compress. The XJ axle mounts have the studs running parallel to the chassis axis, which would not allow the shocks to rotate properly.

Check your headlight grounds. My guess is that the headlights are grounding back through the parking lights.

No, Jeepman clearly stated that the relationship between engine speed and road speed changes in wind or when the engine is working harder going uphill. And that's simply not possible unless the clutch or the automatic transmission is slipping. Here's what he wrote, if you missed it: Followed by:

Remove the tach from the cluster. On the back, there's a potentiometer with a plastic head that has a "+" shaped recess in it. Turning that adjusts the tach. Hook that up along with a known-good idle tach and calibrate away.

^^^ This. Tranny mounts can be expensive, though. Inspect visually. If you don't see chunks of rubber missing, it might be worthwhile just shimming with a washer or two on each of the bolts to create enough clearance to stop the rattling.

Okay, you win. In the United States, there is a fixed relationship between the engine speed and the wheel speed. In Canada the laws of Physics and Mechanics do not apply. Now we can both be right.

But, as Jeepcoma tried to explain, and as I tried to explain, unless you have an automatic and the torque converter lock isn't working, the engine is mechanically connected to the rear wheels through the transmission, transfer case and drive shaft. The road speed simply cannot change without a matching change in engine speed, and the engine speed cannot change without the road speed changing. The Speed-to-RPM relationship is fixed. Yes, the vehicle may slow down on long or steep upgrades, and a 4-banger may even slow down when buffeted by a headwind -- but both the engine speed and the wheel speed will slow down in direct proportion to the gear ratios involved. Or, again as Jeepcoma stated, you may need to give it more gas to maintain speed (which is proof that the engine is working harder), but if the road speed doesn't change, the engine speed doesn't change. It just uses more gas to maintain that same speed. Unless you shift gears.

Wind and hills have exactly zero effect on the relationship between engine speed and road speed. Unless you have an automatic that's slipping very badly, the same engine RPM will always push the vehicle down the road at the exact same speed. I realize that -- and for comparison purposes it's a better calculator than any other on-line calculator I've found. But, unfortunately, it isn't suitable for helping figure out if your speedometer is correct after a gear swap and/or tire size change, and that's something we all should be aware of, too.

Three or four years ago I replaced the rear bumper on the '88 Cherokee. I bought from the dealer, and I thought I was buying a new bumper but I'm pretty sure it must be a rechrome, because the original lasted 20 years, and the replacement is already showing rust. I'm wondering how it would work if I were to wipe down the rusty areas (which are mostly on the top, horizontal surface) with rust killer, and then apply a layer of that shiny silver tape that HVAC guys use to seal joints in ductwork. Does anyone know if that stuff would hold up outdoors? Is it stainless steel or aluminum? TIA

That's a very nice calculator, except for the fact it's wrong. Aside from the fact that they show the 5th gear ratio for the BA 10/5 as 0.79:1 and the factory manual shows it as 0.72:1, even checking their fourth gear speeds to RPMs they're off. I think their calculations (like every other on-line calculator I've seen) use mathematical formulas based on tire dimensions. What these don't take into account is that sidewall "squat" results in a real-world rolling radius that's less than half the static tire diameter. When I made up my spreadsheet, I researched tire manufacturers' data and used published numbers for revolutions-per-mile as the basis for my formulas. The result is that, for the final section of this calculator, they show lower RPMs for each speed than they should. For 225/75-15 tires and 3.07 gears, 65 MPH in fourth gear should be 2395 RPM. They came up with 2370. For 30" tires and 3.73 gears (and I used a tire diameter of 29.5 in their calculator, not the nominal 30) the actual RPM in fourth gear at 65 MPH should be 2849. They came up with 2761. The differences aren't horrible, and since they're wrong across the board the calculatpor is still useful for predicting how much change you'll get from regearing or swapping tires. But the numbers aren't accurate.

3.54s will be "okay" with 30" tires, but 3.73 would be better. And if 31s are on the horizon, you really want 4.10s. When I picked up my '88 MJ I regeared with a set of 3.73s I had bought for my Cherokee, with the intention of running them with 30" tires.The MJ came to me with a 4" lift so I threw on a set of used 31" tires and the 3.73 gears. The overall final drive ratio, as indicated by MPH per 1000 RPM, came out to be exactly the same as a stock XJ or MJ with 3.54 gears. I have now removed the lift and the MJ is on 225/75-15 tires, and the 3.73 gears with the 5-speed are still a good combination. In mountain terrain, I think 4.10s would be better for you with either 30s or 31s, and it's a lot easier to find a 4-banger XJ donor vehicle with 4.10s than it will be to find 3.73s.

The gasket is only trim. Either way, the glass is sealed to the windshield frame with a heavy bead of sealant. It used to be a Butyl based sealant, but I believe now they use a type of polyurethane.

It sounds like you just have some "slop" (excuse my use of such highly technical terminology) in the steering. That can sneak up on you, and then it may be easy or difficult to pinpoint the cause. It may or may not be one thing. In the XJ/MJ front suspension, there are four ball joints, each of which is subject to wear -- especially if not lubed regularly. There are also five tie rod end type joints, plus a bushing. All of those are also subject to wear and can cause slop. After about 175,000 miles, my '88 XJ (which I bought new) finally got to where I had at least a quarter turn of free play in the steering wheel before the road wheels began to respond. In my case, the culprit was the upper end of the track bar -- which is the fifth tie rod end in the XJ/MJ front suspension. On the early XJs and MJs, the track bar upper end didn't have a grease fitting. The replacements DO have a grease fitting. A new track bar fixed my problem. The way I inspect for which joint (or joints) is/are causing slop is by feel. You can feel flex in tie rod ends that you can't see by looking. To do it, you need a helper to turn the steering wheel. The procedure is to unlock the steering wheel. I don't start the engine, but you can. The problem is that power steering makes it too easy for the assistant to turn the wheel too far. The helper should stand OUTSIDE the vehicle and reach in through the driver's window to turn the steering wheel back and forth. The helper should watch the front tire, and turn the steering wheel only to a point in each direction where the tire sidewall starts to flex, but the tire doesn't quite turn on the ground. What you want to do is load the joints to the max in each direction. Once the tire starts to actually turn, the load in the TREs is released. While your helper is turning the steering wheel back and forth, you get to crawl under the vehicle and grab each TRE to feel for how much flex there is. It should be about zero -- they should be free to rotate, but not to flex or have any lateral movement. While you're under there, you can also watch the pitman arm and see if the steering box has free play across the center (in other words, the input shaft connected to the steering wheel turns, but the pitman arm DOESN'T move).

How old is the oxygen sensor? If it's old, it doesn't respond as quickly as it should to changes in the fuel/air mixture. When you let off the throttle, it allows too much gas to keep flowing, the engine doesn't burn it, so it does down the exhaust and burns in the catalytic converter. Backfire.

"Steer ahead"? You mean the steering wheel isn't centered when driving straight? That's not in the steering box, that's a simple adjustment of the drag link. That's tire balance. The steering box can't cause shimmy. It's a 20+ year old truck. It can't feel like a new car with rack-and-pinion steering, and should not be expected to. If that's what you are looking for, you're doomed to disappointment regardless of how much money you throw at it.

You will need a speedometer cable for an 88-90 XJ or MJ. If the cluster came from a vehicle with a different engine than yours, you may also have to calibrate the tachometer. If i swap the Speed-o-meter with the current will that be good. You can do that, but the up-scale clusters have speedos with a trip odometer. If you swap in your old speedo, you won't have the trip odometer. It certainly isn't a necessity, but it's nice to have on occasion.

You will need a speedometer cable for an 88-90 XJ or MJ. If the cluster came from a vehicle with a different engine than yours, you may also have to calibrate the tachometer.