Eagle

It appears very safe to say '86 thru '94 XJ, and probably through '96. Look at where the latch is on your doors (vertically). As long as the donor doors have the latch in the same (vertical) position, you're good to go. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=24307&p=249400&hilit=door+strike+latch#p249400

I thought it was a year or two earlier, but you may be correct.

The starter was made by Mitsubishi. At 230,000 miles he must have replaced the starter at least twice, so he may have seen a label on one of them. There was never a 4-speed manual transmission behind the 4.0L 6-cylinder engine. That engine was introduced in 1987 in the Cherokee and Comanche, and the manual transmission was the Peugeot BA10/5. It is a 5-speed. Mid-year in the 1989 model year Jeep switched to the Aisin-Seiki AX-15, which is also a 5-speed. If the truck you are looking at appears to have a 4-speed, it might be a BA10/5 with 5th gear blown.

:agree: That's what they're for -- to let water into the cabin. Somewhere around '94 pr '95 they changed the type of strike on the door jamb, and the height of the strike in the door. I've never known exactly what year that happened. Quick check -- if the latch uses a single post like on your '88, you're good to go. If the latch on the jamb is brass colored and U-shaped -- it probably is at a different height than yours and won't be a direct replacement.

The transmission is behind the clutch. The clutch doesn't know what kind of transmission is back there. The original BA10/5 in my '88 Cherokee is sneaking up on 290,000 miles and has been wheeled all over the northeast, so the Pewgoat isn't all THAT bad. It just doesn't like to be abused ... I know some people who feel the same way.

For the 4.0L 6-cylinder, it's 2-1/2 for the exhaust (front) pipe, the catalytic converter is 2-1/2" in and 2-1/4" out, the muffler and tailpipe are 2-1/4". The 4-cylinder used different diameters depending on what year.

if you want it to be plug and play yes. but you can get one from a 6 cyl. if you dismantle the cluster and look on the tach there will be a little calibration nob with slot for a screwdriver... that is how you can adjust it. however getting it adjusted is up to you. However, the '84 thru '86 XJ tachometers do NOT have the adjustment, and '87 seems to have been a transition year on that. Also, the speedometer heads were different and the 84 - 86 (or 87?) will not work with the '88 speedometer cable. For an '88, you really need a cluster out of an 88 thru 90 XJ (or MJ).

How about waiting more than 13 minutes before getting pissy?

No. The front exhaust pipe is the same, the catalytic converter is the same, and the muffler is the same. The tailpipe is completely different.

With the spring resting on the closed coil, for a used, standard XJ 4.0L spring the free length is 17-1/2" to the top of the open end. For a NEW Up Country coil, the free length to the top of the open coil is 17" (even). I wasn't equipped to measure the wire thickness, but it looks and feels like the Up Country spring is thicker (which makes sense).

I have a set of NEW (never installed) XJ Up Country coils in the garage somewhere. I'll try to remember to measure one in the morning. I am certain they are XJ Up Country because I took the part numbers of my then-new 2000 XJ before I had it rust-proofed, and I ordered the same part number. XJ Up Country used the same front coils as ZJ V8 standard suspension.

Correction - I wrote that the original rollbar lights were Dick Cepac. Brain fade -- they were KC Hi-Liters, a.k.a. 69 Series. http://www.kchilites.com/lights/69-seri ... ng-black-1

Close. They are the original French Marchal lights. Good quality lights. When the supply started drying up, AMC Jeep went with a similar looking light mfg. in the US, with the lens stamped ROL. These were pure junk, rusted out quickly and are mostly gone now. :cheers: But the Marchals were the bumper-mounted fog lights, not the rollbar-mounted off-road lights. I think those were Dick Cepacs or something like that. They were significantly larger than the foglights, and they had a very different light distribution pattern.

Undercoating is probably the WORST thing you could put on it. Herculiner would be good, or get some professional-grade rustproofing (which is NOT the same thing as "undercoating") and use that. JC Whitney has (or did have) true rustproofing in aerosol cans as well as professional kits with bulk material and spray wands. The pro kits will require an air compressor.

I think the sender is connected to the negative terminal of the gauge. Should be easy enough to run a temporary jumper directly from the negative terminal of the gauge to the sender and see what happens. Even easier -- start the engine, remove the wire from the terminal on the sending unit and ground it directly to the block, and see if the needle drops to zero. If so, the wiring is good. If not, there's a break in the circuit -- or the gauge itself is fubar.

True. Sorry -- I was rushed and skipped right over the reverse part. So he polished the gear teeth rather than the synchronizers.

Anybody check out his site? Click on "Add to cart" and for a Comanche you get to pick a year and an engine type. The years run from 2014 to 1950. Ignoring the fact that the 2014 models aren't here yet ... I want to know how many 1950 cars used computers and chips. I know the 1950 Hudson that was my first car didn't. Points and condenser, baby.

Is the 37042 the universal that fits up beneath the frame rails?

I am 98.732% certain this has been asked and answered previously. Have you tried a search?

What does resurfacing the flywheel have to do with a jumped timing chain? And how could a jumped timing chain damage a wrist pin or groove the cylinder? I think you need to run away from that shop just as fast as you can.

You ground the tips off the synchronizers. Back in the days of the Detroit muscle cars, a favorite trick among serious drag racers was the remove every other tooth from the synchronizers. It allowed fatser shifts without experiencing the possibility of two teeth hitting face-to-face and causing the shift to "hang." (Not good -- I lost a races due to that, but I had a street car and didn't modify the synchros.)

Nah -- if the synchros are trashed it may be a bit noisier, but it works exactly the same. Once you're rolling, upshifts and downshifts are made by gently pushing the shifter toward the next position you want, and gently raising or lowering the engine RPMs. Until you hit the correct RPM for the gear and road speed, it won't shift. Once the engine speed matches the road speed for that gear, it pops right in. In fact, if the synchros are trashed it may be easier on the tranny to shift this way than to use the clutch, forcing the synchros to adjust the speed of the input shaft.

It's a matter of "feathering" the throttle. When you foot is down on the gas peddle, the gears are pulling and there's pressure on one side of the gears. When you lift your foot off the gas and coast, the engine is now acting as a compression brake and the pressure is on the back side of the gears. If you let up part-way, there's a point of neutral throttle when the gears aren't pulling or braking -- when you hit that point, it's easy to shift.

Snake oil. The oxygen sensor is calibrated to tell the ECU what the air-fuel mix is. The ECU then regulates the injection pulse to maintain the air-fuel mix in the optimum range. I am not sure, but I think if you try to trick the ECU by manipulating the air temp reading, the resulting richer mix will show up at the oxygen sensor and the ECU will cut back the injection pulse anyway. I think.

There's a much better than even chance this will do nothing other than grenade the transfer case. It's much easier to just start the engine in gear. It's tough on the starter but, unless you're going UP a steep hill, it'll do it.