Eagle

Probably because that's what AL law says. The laws of each state are different, ya know. In my home state, without a carry permit we are only allowed to transport a firearm from the shop to home, from home to a shop to sell it, and from home to a repair shop and then bring it back. Beyond that, I can't even stand in my own front yard with a handgun if I don't have a permit. Can't take it outside of the house. Definitely can't take it to the range or have it in a vehicle -- even if it's not loaded.

That's to simplify their inventory for service departments. They don't want to carry the correct fluid for two transmissions that haven't been used in years. Don't both Amsoil and Redline offer gear oils that don't have sulpher compounds? Yes... Redline MTL and MT-90 or Amsoil MTG are all intended for transmissions that contain yellow metal parts. Hmmm. Now, if we only knew an Amsoil vendor. Oh, wait ...

I haven't picked it up yet so it's not here to check, but it is a Sport, not an SE. I thought all Sports came with remote entry, but the guru at the stealership says they all had electric locks, but they did NOT all have remote entry. Once I get it, I'll have them run a build sheet from the VIN. I'll add remote entry if I have to, but it would be nicer if I could just program the remote from my late, unlamented '99 WJ to work with the "new" XJ.

That's to simplify their inventory for service departments. They don't want to carry the correct fluid for two transmissions that haven't been used in years. Don't both Amsoil and Redline offer gear oils that don't have sulpher compounds?

It appears that I am buying a 2001 XJ Sport. It has electric locks, but it doesn't appear to have factory remote entry. There are aftermarket systems that can handle this, but there are enough of them that trying to compare makes my head hurt. And it looks like I can get an alarm system with remote entry for $2 less than a simple (?) remote entry system without an alarm feature. Go figure. Looking at wiring diagrams on-line, it seems there are three types: positive trigger, negative trigger, and reversing polarity. Does anyone know which type of control wiring Jeep used in the 2001 XJ?

I believe the 2.5L and 4.0L use the same CPS.

The SporTruck was the base model. It didn't have cloth seat and it didn't have carpets. You are probably looking at a Pioneer. Although, with black bumpers and window trim, it may be a Chief. However, I would not put any faith in what the build sheet reports, because Chrysler recycled a lot of the AMC option codes for other things. I have seen build sheets listing things that were not EVER available on the MJ or XJ, in any year.

If possible, get into the kick panel areas beside the footwells and unplug the speaker wires and (if electric) the window and lock wiring. The biggest thing to remember is that a complete door assembly is HEAVY. Either prop up the back end of it while you remove the six torx screws, or bring a husky friend to help you wrestle with it.

But the question was about an AX-15, which goes behind a 4.0L. That's what is in my '88 MJ and there is no interference with the dashboard in any gear.

No it won't. My '88 MJ has a YJ AX-15 in it, complete with the long, straight shift handle and the YJ transfer case shifter (which the previous owner had to saw the knob off to clear the dashboard -- which may be the cause of the confusion). The transmission shifter is fine even with the taller, straighter YJ handle, and would be perfect with an XJ/MH handle. There is no interference with the dashboard.

It appears very safe to say '86 thru '94 XJ, and probably through '96. Look at where the latch is on your doors (vertically). As long as the donor doors have the latch in the same (vertical) position, you're good to go. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=24307&p=249400&hilit=door+strike+latch#p249400

I thought it was a year or two earlier, but you may be correct.

The starter was made by Mitsubishi. At 230,000 miles he must have replaced the starter at least twice, so he may have seen a label on one of them. There was never a 4-speed manual transmission behind the 4.0L 6-cylinder engine. That engine was introduced in 1987 in the Cherokee and Comanche, and the manual transmission was the Peugeot BA10/5. It is a 5-speed. Mid-year in the 1989 model year Jeep switched to the Aisin-Seiki AX-15, which is also a 5-speed. If the truck you are looking at appears to have a 4-speed, it might be a BA10/5 with 5th gear blown.

:agree: That's what they're for -- to let water into the cabin. Somewhere around '94 pr '95 they changed the type of strike on the door jamb, and the height of the strike in the door. I've never known exactly what year that happened. Quick check -- if the latch uses a single post like on your '88, you're good to go. If the latch on the jamb is brass colored and U-shaped -- it probably is at a different height than yours and won't be a direct replacement.

The transmission is behind the clutch. The clutch doesn't know what kind of transmission is back there. The original BA10/5 in my '88 Cherokee is sneaking up on 290,000 miles and has been wheeled all over the northeast, so the Pewgoat isn't all THAT bad. It just doesn't like to be abused ... I know some people who feel the same way.

For the 4.0L 6-cylinder, it's 2-1/2 for the exhaust (front) pipe, the catalytic converter is 2-1/2" in and 2-1/4" out, the muffler and tailpipe are 2-1/4". The 4-cylinder used different diameters depending on what year.

if you want it to be plug and play yes. but you can get one from a 6 cyl. if you dismantle the cluster and look on the tach there will be a little calibration nob with slot for a screwdriver... that is how you can adjust it. however getting it adjusted is up to you. However, the '84 thru '86 XJ tachometers do NOT have the adjustment, and '87 seems to have been a transition year on that. Also, the speedometer heads were different and the 84 - 86 (or 87?) will not work with the '88 speedometer cable. For an '88, you really need a cluster out of an 88 thru 90 XJ (or MJ).

How about waiting more than 13 minutes before getting pissy?

No. The front exhaust pipe is the same, the catalytic converter is the same, and the muffler is the same. The tailpipe is completely different.

With the spring resting on the closed coil, for a used, standard XJ 4.0L spring the free length is 17-1/2" to the top of the open end. For a NEW Up Country coil, the free length to the top of the open coil is 17" (even). I wasn't equipped to measure the wire thickness, but it looks and feels like the Up Country spring is thicker (which makes sense).

I have a set of NEW (never installed) XJ Up Country coils in the garage somewhere. I'll try to remember to measure one in the morning. I am certain they are XJ Up Country because I took the part numbers of my then-new 2000 XJ before I had it rust-proofed, and I ordered the same part number. XJ Up Country used the same front coils as ZJ V8 standard suspension.

Correction - I wrote that the original rollbar lights were Dick Cepac. Brain fade -- they were KC Hi-Liters, a.k.a. 69 Series. http://www.kchilites.com/lights/69-seri ... ng-black-1

Close. They are the original French Marchal lights. Good quality lights. When the supply started drying up, AMC Jeep went with a similar looking light mfg. in the US, with the lens stamped ROL. These were pure junk, rusted out quickly and are mostly gone now. :cheers: But the Marchals were the bumper-mounted fog lights, not the rollbar-mounted off-road lights. I think those were Dick Cepacs or something like that. They were significantly larger than the foglights, and they had a very different light distribution pattern.

Undercoating is probably the WORST thing you could put on it. Herculiner would be good, or get some professional-grade rustproofing (which is NOT the same thing as "undercoating") and use that. JC Whitney has (or did have) true rustproofing in aerosol cans as well as professional kits with bulk material and spray wands. The pro kits will require an air compressor.

I think the sender is connected to the negative terminal of the gauge. Should be easy enough to run a temporary jumper directly from the negative terminal of the gauge to the sender and see what happens. Even easier -- start the engine, remove the wire from the terminal on the sending unit and ground it directly to the block, and see if the needle drops to zero. If so, the wiring is good. If not, there's a break in the circuit -- or the gauge itself is fubar.