Eagle

True. Sorry -- I was rushed and skipped right over the reverse part. So he polished the gear teeth rather than the synchronizers.

Anybody check out his site? Click on "Add to cart" and for a Comanche you get to pick a year and an engine type. The years run from 2014 to 1950. Ignoring the fact that the 2014 models aren't here yet ... I want to know how many 1950 cars used computers and chips. I know the 1950 Hudson that was my first car didn't. Points and condenser, baby.

Is the 37042 the universal that fits up beneath the frame rails?

I am 98.732% certain this has been asked and answered previously. Have you tried a search?

What does resurfacing the flywheel have to do with a jumped timing chain? And how could a jumped timing chain damage a wrist pin or groove the cylinder? I think you need to run away from that shop just as fast as you can.

You ground the tips off the synchronizers. Back in the days of the Detroit muscle cars, a favorite trick among serious drag racers was the remove every other tooth from the synchronizers. It allowed fatser shifts without experiencing the possibility of two teeth hitting face-to-face and causing the shift to "hang." (Not good -- I lost a races due to that, but I had a street car and didn't modify the synchros.)

Nah -- if the synchros are trashed it may be a bit noisier, but it works exactly the same. Once you're rolling, upshifts and downshifts are made by gently pushing the shifter toward the next position you want, and gently raising or lowering the engine RPMs. Until you hit the correct RPM for the gear and road speed, it won't shift. Once the engine speed matches the road speed for that gear, it pops right in. In fact, if the synchros are trashed it may be easier on the tranny to shift this way than to use the clutch, forcing the synchros to adjust the speed of the input shaft.

It's a matter of "feathering" the throttle. When you foot is down on the gas peddle, the gears are pulling and there's pressure on one side of the gears. When you lift your foot off the gas and coast, the engine is now acting as a compression brake and the pressure is on the back side of the gears. If you let up part-way, there's a point of neutral throttle when the gears aren't pulling or braking -- when you hit that point, it's easy to shift.

Snake oil. The oxygen sensor is calibrated to tell the ECU what the air-fuel mix is. The ECU then regulates the injection pulse to maintain the air-fuel mix in the optimum range. I am not sure, but I think if you try to trick the ECU by manipulating the air temp reading, the resulting richer mix will show up at the oxygen sensor and the ECU will cut back the injection pulse anyway. I think.

There's a much better than even chance this will do nothing other than grenade the transfer case. It's much easier to just start the engine in gear. It's tough on the starter but, unless you're going UP a steep hill, it'll do it.

Sure -- it takes money out of your bank account and injects it rapidly into the vendor's bank account.

Just drive it. I had the hose to the slave in my XJ blow out on my way from Connecticut to a NAXJA-NAC wheeling event in Maine. I was at a toll booth in Massachusetts when it blew. I turned around and drove 100 miles back home with no clutch. It's not that difficult.

Then that's likely the problem. If even one of the three is rusted up and doesn't move, the parking breakes don't work. The only thing worse is when they're rusted up and they DO move -- and then you can't release the parking brake :(

Did you replace any or all of the three cables? There's the front cable, and then the two from the equalizer to the two rear drums.

No, it's not crazy. If you don't understand why I made that post, you don't pay attention to what's going on in the world. Internet sites, including forums, are getting sued almost on a daily basis because some doofus followed some advice some other doofus posted on an Internet forum, and doofus #1 got injured or killed as a result of believing doofus #2. And in many of these case, even when the forum has a disclaimer that members are responsible for their own posts, the forum owner and administrators get named in the lawsuits. On another forum where I serve as an administrator, the forum's owner takes a very harsh view of such activities. Any member who puts up a post advocating anything that's contrary to the law gets banned, permanently, and (of course) the post goes away. Pete has provided this forum for us out of the kindness of his heart, and the fact that he likes Comanches and wants to discuss them with other people who like them. Early on, Pete asked me to help him be a moderator. I try to remember that this forum is smaller and has less formal rules than the other forums I moderate or have moderated in the past, but that doesn't mean I should be blind to something that could cause Pete problems down the road. It probably won't ... but Murphy's law is ALWAYS in effect. I think the least we can do is not openly advocate illegal acts, since doing so on Pete's forum could get Pete in legal trouble. But ... I'm just old-fashioned that way.

Auto Zone calls it a "Water Outlet" http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 0odqZ9pd7s

Why not get an HO thermostat housing? That has a threaded outlet for the temperature sensor.

Funny you should make the highlighted statement immediately after complaining that an on-coming vehicle blinded you. That's the reason for the law -- to prevent overly-bright lights from blinding on-coming drivers and causing accidents. If you don't choose to wear a seatbelt, you put yourself at risk. If you blind on-coming vehicles, you put ME at risk. That's the point at which government intervention becomes appropriate.

I wasn't suggesting that you would undo your "fix." I was quite certain you wouldn't pay any attention to a little thing like a legal requirement. However, this isn't your forum, it's Pete's and I don't want Pete to get busted over his forum "recommending" to people that they make an unlawful modification to their vehicle. Now that y'all know what the law requires, you can make your own decisions.

So you went to see it last night -- what's the scoop? Was it as bad as it looks? I'm just curious as can be to find out what a jet performance chip header is.

The ground wire is under the driver's side tail light. Remove the tail light and check that the ground is good and clean. That's for the taillights. I believe the headlight and front parking light ground is behind the left headlight.

What Rancho kit and what parts? I know Rancho sells the same AAL for the rear of the XJ and the MJ. The catalog says (or did, last time I bought one of the AAL kits) that it lifts both XJs and MJs 2-1/2 inches. That's not possible, of course, so I called Rancho and spoke with the engineering department. The young woman I was talking to put me on hold, went away for a LOOOOOOOOOONG time, and finally came back to tell me that was a misprint, it should be an inch to an inch-and-a-half for the MJ. So if this kit is a dual-application kit, for both the XJ and the MJ -- they are basing their advertised lift on what it does in an XJ.

It's easy to make them work that way, but it's also ullegal. By Federal law, FOG lights must NOT operate when the high beams are on, and DRIVING lights must not operate when the low beams are on. And "off-road" lights must not operate (and in some states must be covered) when the vehicle is operated on a public highway.

That sound is probably the clutch release bearing, not the tranny. I wouldn't replace the flywheel unless it's badly hot-spotted.

However, the c-clip Dana 35s weren't introduced until the 1990 model year.