Eagle

Gibson. NOTHING sounds as good. http://www.gibsonperformance.com/

Worse when wet out? Check your plug wires. As they get old, internal resistance increases while the insulation may break down. Get the plug wires wet (or even damp, such as condensation on cold wires on a cool, damp evening) and if you pop the hood with the engine running you may see a light shopw you'll never forget.

If it's a 2WD and your daily driver -- don't lift it. Certainly not by anything like 3 inches. Then you'll be looking for bigger tires because it'll look sily with a 3" lift on stock tires. 31" or 33" tires cost a bunch more than 225/75s. You won't like the performance hit with the bigger tires, so then you'll be looking at an axle swap or regearing. And on and on she goes -- "JEEP: Just Empty Every Pocket." Throw a 3/4" spacer on the front springs and the next time you need tires go to 235/75-15s and you'll have a fine daily driver.

:agree: Especially after wheeling an MJ with a 4" lift and 31s. Lower is better -- I don't ever advise going any higher/bigger than you absolutely need.

Are you sure the bumper has a ground?

I believe it's a tapered pipe thread, and metric. Good luck finding anything to match.

So its safe to heat with the transmission on the truck? I wouldn't. The BA 10/5 case is aluminum. Aluminum has a very low melting point. Keep soaking the plug with Kroil. Then take a small ball pein hammer and tap the face of the plug a few times. Don't hit it too hard -- you aren't trying to smash it out of the case, just tap enough to (maybe) loosen up whatever corrosion has formed. Once you get the plug out, put teflon tape or anti-seize on the threads.

There's possibly a factory connector you can open up and insert a Hoppy harness, but the MJ uses the taillights as combination stop, tail & turn signal lights, just like a simple 4-wire trailer. I just used quick taps to splice into the wires. No logic box adapter needed on the MJ (unlike the XJ).

Just grab it. If it doesn't fit, you can always sell it for a couple of bucks.

The gauges work the same except that the tachometer needs to be recalibrated. The 88 - 90 tach has a potentiometer that allows you to adjust it -- the early tachs do NOT have an adjustment so the tach has to match the engine.

Thanks. The materials are spoken for.

Several years ago I attended an all-day workshop and became a certified Tread Lightly trainer. Since then, the off-road scene in Connecticut has tightened up even more than it was then, to the point where there's virtually no place left where we can legally go off-roading. There has been no interest in Tread Lightly around here. I'm trying to clean out the basement and I found a small stash of Tread Lightly pamphlets and stuff. I don't expect I'll ever need it or use it, but I hate to throw it away. If anyone would be interested in this material, send me a PM with your name and snail mail address and its yours.

I need a steel gas tank skid for a 2001 XJ, with the plastic gas tank. There are no u-pull junkyards in Connecticut -- they've been illegal for at least 20 years. If anyone is doing any junkyard scouting and you find a 97+ XJ or a ZJ with the steel gas tank skid, I would appreciate it if you'd find out what the yard wants for it, and what you'd want to remove it and ship it to me. I don't need the frame weld nut strips -- I have a new set for an XJ so that's covered. I just need a skid plate. Original XJ would be ideal but probably hard to find. Apparently ZJ skids can be made to work. Thanks

I've never heard of an adapter. The XJ (pre-97) and MJ fuel pump/sender assemblies mount in the tank the same way, with a lock ring and O-ring. The issue is that the arm on the MJ sender is positioned opposite to the way it is for the XJ. There's no way an adapter ring can correct for that. Am I missing something?

Cool -- drills I have. And I have a spare set of the nut plate frame inserts. Just need to find a skid. No u-pulls in Connecticut, so I guess I'm off to the Classifieds. Thanks, folks. Jim, you are correct -- I'm looking for the steel skid plate, not the plastic gravel shield.

Well, an aftermarket skid that fits both is a good start, but I'm really interested in the factory skids. Does anyone know if the FACTORY ZJ gas tank skid will also fit the 97+ XJ? Thanks, Alexia.

I think I remember reading that the gas tank skid for a ZJ Grand Cherokee will also fit the 97 and newer XJs with the plastic gas tanks. Can anyone tell me for sure if this is correct, or if I'm imagining things? Thanks

Bolt DIRECTLY to the Renix head and give 10 to 25 more horsepower? Another "No." Will the later manifold bolt on? Yes. Do the ports line up? No. The ports are shaped differently and the newer heads have the ports located higher, so if you just bolt a late model manifold to a Renix head you have a massive port mismatch, and IMHO there's no way that can increase the horsepower. And, assuming you're talking about the intake manifold, the throttle body and the TB mount are different, so you have to either adapt the Renix throttle body to the late model manifold, or adapt the manifold to the Renix throttle body.

I've never checked the ballast resistor during or after operation, but it IS a resistor, and the nature of resistors is that they turn voltage into heat. Resistance generates heat, so what you're seeing may be perfectly normal.

No. The purpose of the thermostat is to keep the temperature UP, not down. Modern engines need to run warmer than the engines I used to build as a racer and autocrosser back in the 60s and 70s. Run the factory thermostat. If you get overheating with that in there, you have problems other than the thermostat. FWIW, the newer "open" radiator doesn't cool any better than the older, "closed" radiator. They have exactly the same cooling area. The weak point of the closed system is the crappy plastic bottle and pressure cap, and there are multiple options available to replace that with something you don't have to worry about.

I am in need of a gray carpet cover for a full-size spare, to fit a 2000/2001 Cherokee with 225/75R15 tires. I'm not sure how far back the color would be the same (or close). If anyone is hitting the u-pulls, please let me know if you see one in good condition, and let me know how much you'd want to bring it home and send it to me.

Most forum sites I belong to (including -- and even especially -- "gun" sites) do not allow "drive by" posts at all. IMO they are nothing but a form of trolling. It's easy to throw up a link without saying anything about why you think anyone should read it or what your position is. That way, no matter what someone says about it you can always attack them for it because you haven't revealed your position. Personally, I'm here to discuss Comanches. There are "gun" forums for people who wish to discuss guns, and there are political forums for those who wish to discuss politics.

The STOCK gearing with the 2.5L and the 5-speed was 4.10, and 2.5L MJs typically came with 205/75-15 tires. Jumping up to 31s means a change of approximately 11 percent, so you need at least a 10 percent increase in gear ratio just to stay even. Since 31x10.50s are so much heavier, you really want to do a bit more than just stay even. So ==> 4.10 + 10% = 4.51. So the 4.56 gearing is going to be about the same as stock gearing and stock tires. I think with the 2.5L and 31s you really need the 4.88s.

XJ Up Country front coils, which ride 1" higher than stock for a 4.0L, are the same part numbers as ZJ V8 springs, not 6-cylinder ZJ. That's for a 6-cylinder. Since you have a 4-cylinder, 6-cylinder ZJ coils should give you some lift but I don't know how much.

In that chart, you will see that there are two columns marked "Revolutions per mile." The one under "Theoretical" is filled in for every tire. Those values are calculated based on the tire dimensions. The other one, under "Actual," doesn't have a value for every tire. Where the "Actual" numbers are filled in, they were taken directly off manufacturers published tire specs and should be considered more accurate than the column under "Theoretical." The "Theoretical" revolutions per mile numbers don't account for sidewall squat, which (as you can see looking at the tires that show a manufacturer's static radius) reduces the rolling radius to less than half of the calculated tire diameter. Smaller radius ==> more revolutions per mile.